Doan's nursery in Belt line road in Irving has many cocktail fruit trees. I would suggest to check this nursery for fruit trees, flowering plants and tropical plants. Be prepared to wait to get help and also make sure that you are getting the right plants because many of the plants don't have labels/pricing. I also noticed that many fruit trees are from California growers, so not sure how they would grow in DFW. Moreover, they do not give any kind of warranty to the trees.

Thanks for the nice comments Andrew and Mamuang. Regarding the new plum, I would go ahead and leave it in the hole Andrew. I definitely wouldn't amend the planting hole without building a mound. You are quite correct plums will tolerate much poorer drainage than peach and will grow in all but the wettest spots. I have planted plums in flat ground and plums in mounds. The ones in mounds clearly do better, but that may be partially due to the mounds having looser soil, which makes it easier for the roots to spread. I have had more difficulty getting good growth on plums planted in the ground, so you might try fertilizing a little the first season or two to size the tree up. I plan on using a little fertilizer on the plums I planted this spring to give them a little boost. My new plums are all planted in flat ground. "OK, I would like to know what would be a good sticking agent for copper? Drew, I use Latron B1956 spreader/sticker. I don't know that it's any better than any other spreader/sticker, but I'm used to it and know the mixing dosage in my head. Actually it's no longer manufactured, but when I ran out of my last gallon, I was able to find another on Ebay. Copper is not always harmful to foliage. I didn't mean to leave that impression. It can have the potential to spot or burn foliage. Because of this it's generally advised to use lower application rates of copper in the growing season vs. the dormant season. Understand that MSU's advice regarding copper on cherry is for tart cherry only. Coppers have a high potential for foliage injury on sweet cherries. This post was edited by olpea on Sat, Apr 6, 13 at 21:02

Well, I didn't prune the two older ones (Bartlett Pear and Honeycrisp) any more than I did last year, which is to say, lightly-to-moderately pruned and they flowered fine last year... and I BARELY pruned the two younger apple trees, since they did not have much growth to begin with.... I just can't imagine how I would have pruned off every single branch with flowering capability on 4 different trees, unless I really pruned them super heavily, which I didn't. The Honeycrisp apple got the most pruning this year, but I followed various tutorials and felt I was actually probably not taking enough off. But I am new to this so I guess I could be wrong! In any case, the other 3 only got very lightly pruned. And, no, no flower buds ever showed up at all. I have to get my yard ready for a delivery of 10 tons of gravel thats on its way, but I'll try to take some photos later on so you can see how much I pruned.

iamzvonko, I also live in northern Ohio. My cherry and plum tree didn't bloom this year either. I think it was the frigid winter. It takes colder weather to kill a tree than to kill the fruit buds. So my trees are still alive, but no blossoms. All of my other fruit except my blueberries suffered severe winter damage.