Likewise, I wouldn't cut again without a clear reason to do so (rot). Let it callus a few days, re-pot in a dry coarse mix, then water in 1 - 2 weeks time - dribble some water around the stem, maybe a half inch out, without soaking the mix or hitting the cutting directly. Josh

My 5cents... 1. pot is too large, too deep 2. soil needs some 'lightening-up'; add generous amount of perlite if you can't get anything else (I use small grit a lot); research soils for succulents on this forum. If you see recommendation to add sand anywhere, I would say DON't, unless it is really gritty (larger particles) 3. rocks on the bottom/halfway up don't work, get rid of them. Get shallower pot AND well draining mix instead. 4. just because 'nothing is hanging' (sorry ez to contradict you), doesn't mean plant is healthy. You need to squeeze (gently) trunk and branches to see if they are too soft - but sometimes they are soft just from lack of water. I do not think that is the case with your plant - it started to rot for a reason. Water was, probably, getting poured (sometimes we don't notice) over same spot on trunk, perhaps there was a small injury that allowed water to get in - anything is possible. I would gently swish the root ball in the water, cut off roots that are mushy-slimy. Any black spots/areas in the trunk or branches you see on cut pieces are sign of rot spreading. Unless you get rid of them, it will continue to spread. Small and healthy piece is better - and will grow in proper conditions - than larger-longer sick one that will eventually die anyway. It is clear to me from the last photo that the branch is growing from the trunk/stump, so you can leave it. Not 100% sure, but 4th photo from the bottom seems to show some darker areas - double check on that. If yes, cut further. When you pot it up, don't bury trunk too deep, as long as the roots are covered, that is enough. You could put the rocks (ones you had on the bottom of the pot for 'drainage') on top of the soil around the plant to support it - how large are these rocks?

Gardengal is right about the etiolation. I know it is difficult indoors, but I don't think your plant has ever been getting enough light. See how far apart the internodes (or spaces between the leaves) are? It should grow tight, closely spaced leaves. This was a half-hearted effort to see if I could grow a jade straight up. That didn't work, but you can easily see how close the internodes are. Since they enjoy full sun we try to place plants in front of our brightest window. But remember that a window will cut some of the sun rays, especially our eco-friendly windows that help with cooling costs. And a screen cuts things even further. You may need to invest in a light for your plant to prevent etiolation.

Fee Bee - While your plant won't like going completely dry, it will tolerate a medium that is overly dry far better than one overly wet. For your plant, it is best to water just before the grow medium is completely dry. The advice to "water when the top inch or two of soil feels dry" is pretty much a recipe for over-watering unless the pot is around 5" deep or less. What is most important is the moisture level deep in or at the bottom of the pot. Since your finger isn't useful for determining how wet the soil is deep in the pot, we need to look to another tool. A wooden 'tell', made from a piece of wood dowel rod (any hardware of home improvement store) is extremely useful for determining moisture levels deep in the pot. Using a 'tell' Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need plenty of air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support the kind of root health most growers would like to see; and, a healthy root system is a prerequisite to a healthy plant. Watering in small sips leads to avoid over-watering leads to a residual build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil from tapwater and fertilizer solutions, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor. In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water. Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'. One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue. Al