Take some cuttings, let the cut dry, then root them and get them growing happily, and then --throw out the old plant (after you have gotten cuttings rooted and growing). The old plant may have in the mean time sprouted new healthy stems. In that case, you can just cut off the old stuff and enjoy the old plant also, now with new healthy stems. repotting into a fresh gritty mix would be a good idea. Try to have your Aloe spend the warm months outdoors so the growth is not so stretched out. Accustom to full sun slowly so the leaf tissue doesn't sunburn. Grow in a gritty potting mix so the roots don't rot, and never overwater. If you live in a very rainy area, you may need to grow under a patio cover so the plant doesn't stay constantly wet.

There's a good chance the plant will break back (back-bud) low on the stem or right at the soil line, but no guarantee. Odds are high the top is a goner, but it depends on whether or not it suffered serious chill injury, which can occur at temps well above freezing if the temperature drop is sudden enough. All you can do is wait. The leaves will all drop off, for sure. If you don't see new growth emerging from the stem within 2 months, scrap away some of the periderm (bark). If there is a green layer just below, wait awhile longer. It's critical that you do not over-water. The plant will be using almost NO water, so use a "tell" to "tell" you if the grow medium is moist deep in the pot - water only when the tell comes out nearly dry. Keep it warm and in good light. Withhold fertilizer until the plant is pushing new growth. Using a 'tell' Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need plenty of air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support the kind of root health most growers would like to see; and, a healthy root system is a prerequisite to a healthy plant. Watering in small sips leads to avoid over-watering leads to a residual build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil from tapwater and fertilizer solutions, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor. In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water. Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'. One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue. Al

Whatever colors you choose, get a sample pot and paint a large piece of board or cardboard in that color. Look at it at different times of day since the light changes. We see too many sad posts on Houzz where people have been disappointed in the way a color looks over larger areas, and in outdoor light. When you do your plants, make your beds at least 6 feet deep. That may seem huge, but you need to have the first foot along your house bare, so you can access it for maintenance. Then, any decent size shrubs will probably be about 4 feet wide at maturity. (Check your tag on online where you'll see this information. ) That leaves you a foot in front of the shrubs if you want to plant any annuals. When you plant a shrub that's 4 feet wide at maturity, the center of the planting hole should be 3 feet from your house (2 feet from the center to the edge of the mature shrub, plus one foot space to house.) Before your shrubs are mature it may look a bit bare. Just plant self-seeding annuals in between and you'll plant fewer every year as the shrubs grow. I like annual white sweet alyssum which doesn't have deep roots and won't interfere with the shrubs' growth. Or use native plants that behave the same way. (We don't know where you live.) It's less expensive and more beautiful than mulching a large area with bark chips, and it will come back from seed next year. Google "green mulch" and you'll see what other have to say about this idea. If there is someone in your neighborhood whose front garden you admire, stop by when they are outside and ask about it. I have given so many cuttings and divisions of my garden plants to people. https://www.houzz.com/magazine/new-ways-to-think-about-all-that-mulch-in-the-garden-stsetivw-vs~25100660

a landscape begins with a stated GOAL ... and when you can state such ... then we can help you decide what to plant.. if anything ... i wonder what the prior owner was thinking with all that stone .. though i do like the huge rock ... i wonder how that line of conifers... arbs.. looked in regard to the rest of the neighborhood ... i also note... they were planted to close to the pavement ... and wonder if that lead to stress.. which lead the majority of the line of them to fail .. frying due to the retained and reflected heat ... not to mention there was no real plant..... that these conifers.. trees.. never really stop growing.. and soon enough.. would have been over the driveway.. scratching cars.. and making it hard to open the vehicles doors ... what do you want there.. to accomplish what ... and why ... whats your goal ... in other words .. all that said ... you do not have to live with the prior owners mistakes.. and it might be time to make your own mistakes... lol ... ken