The only way to know whether the Phosphorus and Potash is too high, too low, or about right is to have a good reliable soil test done of the soil in that proposed garden plot. An in depth look at the soil will also help answer other questions that are just as important such as the soils pH, drainage, soil life, type of soil, and about as important as the rest how much organic matter is in that soil. Contact your state universities Cooperative Extension Service office about having a good reliable soil test done and also dig in with these simple soil tests, 1) Soil test for organic matter. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drainsâ too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy. to see what else you can about that soil.

New to this forum. Enjoying all the new stuff I'm learning. Feeding Bambis alfalfa will get verrry expensive. I have both cows and horses and can't tell any difference in how hot it is or which one has more weeds, although my grandfather always swore horse manure was too hot. You can use green manure, but don't pile it up thick on anything or it will burn (it starts cooking). You can mix green in with your native soil, and it will be fine. I planted larkspur and delphenium directly into green manure and they were gorgeous and healthy. I used to plant my annuals with a scoop of composted manure and got many, many weeds immediately around the plant. I blamed the manure and started planting them with a spoonful of Osmacote. I still have lots of weeds. I realize now it was the combination of turning over the weed seeds to sunlight when I planted along with the added nutrients. It doesn't matter whether it's manure or a commercial fetilizer. I'm going back to the manure as it's free. My conclusion: Weed seeds are everywhere and when you turn them over to the sunlight and give them a boost with manure or commercial fertilizers, they go nuts.

Kermdawg, it is way too late to plant lettuce in the desert. It's a fall, winter, and early spring crop. If you want tomatos, it's too late to start from seeds, but a perfect time to put in 12" plants from a nursery. They like heat but once it goes over 90 they suffer. At that point they appreciate mid-day shade. I use a PVC pipe frame with shade cloth. I have heard that peppers and eggplants can take the full sun, at least through early summer. For more details about gardening in your area, look up your county's agricultural extension, and/or local gardening clubs and botanical gardens for great info. Your biggest challenge with compost in the desert will be keeping it moist enough to let the bacteria thrive. I find using a bin really helps keep the moisture in the pile. An open-air pile will always be crispy dry on the outside, in your climate. I keep my bin moist by adding a lot of used coffee grounds. I get them from a local Circle K and because they are so finely ground and saturated w/ water, they do a great job of keeping the bin moist, if mixed in well. I do have an open air pile as well, and I add "gray water" as often as I can: rainwater, wash water, the dog's dirty splash pool water, rinse water, etc. Your old, dried out manure will add much-needed organic material to your soil, which helps it retain moisture. But the bad news is, it is probably not composted (broken down by bacteria) because it was never wet enough. It will compost, slowly, in the soil. Manure that is piled up, kept moist, and turned to incorporate oxygen and compost it well is more completely broken down, and has more available nutrients as well as living organisms that enhance the soil. Hope that helps. Best of luck. --Maureen

Always compost animal manures before using them in the garden to at least try to reduce the disease pathogens that are present in animal manures. Your old piles are a prime source of the tetanus toxoid pathogen, but it does not take a very hot compost pile to kill that pathogen.