I'll grab a picture of the plant close up when I get home tonight. I've attached a blurry one in the meantime... it was from far away. It wasn't a very big transplant in terms of milkweed (about ~18 inches). You can see the yellowing leaves, though... about 5 have fallen off since planting. I cleared a bunch of rocks (hard to get all those suckers) and stuff to make the bed but haven't finished edging/mulch since it's been so rainy!

Oh brother, WisconsinTom, I have studied extensively on Monsanto, their products, their GMO crops and you have no clue. But keep after it you are getting paid well by Monsanto I'm sure. But as you try and pretend to be the "reasonable" one here, I will remind the others that you are the one that named called with your post by starting out the "level of ignorance here in the above post" dated Sept 18. You were talking about me in that post, but you have no clue to my education on the subject or scientific research people in my family have done on the subject. The only knee jerk reactions are your own and I could school you on the subject but will not waste my time. I hope you are getting paid well. Oh and lastly Europe has totally outlawed all GMO crops, as has Hawaii except for the grandfathered in Papaya. But ignore all the recent scientific studies that came out this year on what's killing bees and monarchs among other insects and yes I remember the ads by tobacco companies that said their was no evidence that smoking caused lung cancer too....lol This post was edited by joeinmo on Mon, Sep 29, 14 at 20:14

I would not assume that all pods are bad, unless you had a terrible infestation of milkweed bugs. Otherwise, you are likely to have some good pods and seeds. The milkweed seed should look smooth, and somewhat plump and firm in the middle. One way that I check the viability of larger seeds is to use some very sharp scissors, or a blade and cut a seed in half. There should be a small white looking embryo or germ inside - from where the root and cotyledon emerge. If there's no seed embryo, then the seed is not viable. Milkweed seems to attract so many assorted insects, most of which are "banished" from my plants. This is because they either prey on the Monarch larvae or they degrade the foliage quality of the plants. I admit I am more or less merciless with all other bugs besides Monarchs and they get the big squish (even some I like, oh dear).

Well, if you've read through this forum, you'll nearly all the successful container citrus folks use their own potting mix, as the stuff that comes out of a bag is just much too dense. Moisture meters like you have stuck in your pot can be notoriously inaccurate, and certainly will not tell you what's going on at the bottom of your pot, which can very well be a swamp, while the top of your soil can appear very dry. So, the first thing I would do is re-pot with either "Gritty Mix" or "511 Mix", both formulas can be found on this forum. Secondly, those same container growers prefer to use Dyna Gro Foliage Pro, mainly because it has the proper NPK ratio (it's not just about the N), plus all the micronutrients. Plus, the nitrogen is non-urea based, which is very important to prevent biuret build-up and leaf burn. You can use Foliage Pro either 1/2 strength or full strength with every watering. I would water, first, to moisten the roots, then fertilize. Never apply fertilizer to dry roots. Misting. Again. The myth that will not die. Citrus do not need high humidity. If this were so, they'd never survive in our S. California deserts, where there are still thousands of acres of commercial citrus groves. I have no idea where this myth got started. Yes, you citrus will always benefit from a hosing off, to remove house dust and discourage pests (all house plants will benefit from a hosing off), but you do not need to waste your time misting. And, I would leave your lights on longer. Meyer lemons are rather sensitive to light changes, so you'll see leaf drop, but, your tree looks to me like it's suffering more from compacted soil and lack of fertilizer, than lack of light. So, try fixing those two things, first. Fungus gnats can pop up in any soil, organic or not. They proliferate from too wet soils (which is my suspicion going on with your tree), so re-pot with better potting mix, and if they come back, you can use a product called, Gnatrol. It takes a couple of applications, but it is very effective. Another one of our forum members suggested another very effective product, just can't remember it off the top of my head. Hopefully, they'll post their product for you. Patty S.