I would move them away from the sun even though it is filtered. Guzmanias do better in a shady area. You are doing the right thing by keeping water in the cups. However, don't let the soil get soggy, this could lead to rot. Hope this helps, good luck.

I hate to dredge up an old thread but I am having the same problem with my dappled willow. One half of it has turned brown and looks like it is dying. Actually I think it is dead. The other half if fine. This started last year and I thought it would recover, but no. I cut off all the dead branches and now have a weird looking half tree that looks healthy. The tree is in the middle of the yard. My only guess is maybe salt from shoveling the sidewalk, that gets piled near one side of the tree and not the other. But I would think salt in the soil would kill a whole plant not just kill half of it? There are lots of shoots coming from the trunk. I suppose I could start over rooting a new tree.

I would repot your Fiddle Leaf Fig with new good quality potting soil and into a slightly bigger pot with drainage holes. A clay type pot is better than plastic. Make sure your Fig isn’t being exposed to hot air from a vent and turn the plant every now and then so that it gets even light

Hi everyone. Unfortunately Monstera deliciosa has more culture myths floating around than almost any other plant. The "bright indirect light" myth is the worst. It's everywhere on the internet and it's pure hogwash! :) Most all of the biggest-leaf, massive, mature specimens get from several hours a day full sun up to all-day sun, outdoors. You just really can't give it too much sun if it's grown indoors as a houseplant, unless you switch from low sun too quickly and sunburn it. Next is the "fast draining soil" myth. Many plants love that, and Monstera do great that way, but there must be some houseplants that don't absolutely require it as much as others, right? Monstera deliciosa is that plant. It will grow extremely well in wet mud, in plain clay garden dirt in a pot, and yes also in premium free-draining expensive media too. Another myth are the extreme cautions about being so careful not to overwater it. There is hardly any houseplants that can resist overwatering more. You probably can't overwater it unless your pot has no drainage hole and the soil goes anaerobic. It is still optimal to provide constantly moist-but-not-wet soil, but it's usually UNDER-watering that causes these types of leaf die-off. The last myth is the "increase the humidity" myth. It's great, but just not necessary. They have a tough, thick outer skin and can resist low humidity very well. This one below is grown in a northern heating climate with a central forced-air furnace that really drys the air all winter, often below 20%, yet it doesn't have any brown edges. It gets watered about once every 4 days right now (it needs a bigger pot soon!). It gets lightly fertilized with Foliage Pro at every watering throughout the year. So the plant in the first post needs more sun and more water. Ideally it should be right up in an E, W, or S window (those super-long petioles are etiolating, which is evidence the light is way too low). It needs to have the soil flushed deeply once in awhile, in case that is partially mineral salts fertilizer burn. Also, I would recommend you consider switching to a low-urea liquid fertilizer (like Foliage Pro or similar) more frequently and lightly, as these don't have the strong salt-based ingredients that burn so easily. One concern I had: I do want to know what you mean by "houseplants compost". Thank you. :)