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Cacti & Succulents

Jade plant leaf problem

14 years ago

I recently moved two potted jade plants inside for winter. After coming in the leaves started developing brown tips with a white/clear crystaline flakey coating. These leaves eventually curl up and drop off. I pruned off all the bad leaves but new growth is showing the same problem. The plants are not over watered and don't have any problems on the trunks or branches. A link to some photos of the bad leaves follows. Does anyone know what the problem is? Any suggested remedies?

http://www.flickr.com/photos/29757064@N03/sets/72157623147843702/detail/

Thanks

Here is a link that might be useful: photos of bad leaves

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Comments (5)

cactusmcharris, interior BC Z4/5
14 years ago
Tim,

I took a gander at your photos and don't see any of the white you speak of, but I would guess that if you've eliminated the usual suspects on the outside of the plant (mealy bugs, for example), depot the plant and look at the roots for a problem - you might have root mealy bugs (they'll look like spots of ash on the root ball).
greenman28 NorCal 7b/8a
14 years ago
Check the soil, as Jeff suggests.

Some of my leaves froze on the edges, and they've been drying up similar to yours, with the white dust after they've dried.

Could these have been touched by frost/low temps?
It's been pretty cold in the Bay this year...

Josh
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nour That is the reason for water-logged leaves. You need to do something before rot starts. First aid: take whole plant, including the soil, out of the container. Soil will likely stick together. You should lay whole thing on stack of newspaper and let it dry out, it will happen faster than if left in container. I am suggesting this since you said you can't re-pot into new mix now. When the soil is considerably drier, return to the pot. Water only when skewer comes out dry, after sticking it deep into the pot. Consider getting new mix as soon as you can. It would be shame to loose such nice plant. Grit (I use chicken grit) is excellent. Perlite is another, very easy to obtain and inexpensive ingredient. Can you get either of them or both? Is there anything inorganic that is available where you live? Fine sand isn't recommended, since it will block drainage. But if you could get very coarse sand (here, it is referred to as horticultural sand), that would work. Easy test for the appropriate size of granules would be if you can get ordinary kitchen sieve and sift it; whatever stays inside of sieve will be good to use, too fine particles will fall thru it. Do not use sand picked from the beach since it usually contains too much salt (and possibly too much calcium from shells). Let us know what's available to you. Your new mix should be 'chunky', full of spaces between granules. That would allow good drainage and good air flow - roots start rotting in mushy, dense & wet substrate that doesn't allow them to breathe. Whenever you are ready to re-pot, make sure you get rid off all of the soil. Shake off what you can, help to loosen it up with the skewer and/or swish the root ball in container of water. There is no point of re-potting if the old soil remains - fine soil will defeat what you are trying to achieve with chunky mix. Rina
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Do not use soapy water - I know it is often recommended, but it dissolves wax on the leaves...the only soap to be used on plants should be true vegetable-based Castile soap (olive oil based). I do not have experience with neem oil, so can't comment. Lots of marks appear to be oedema (the hard, black bumps), even the bigger dry-looking patches. That happens when plant cant transpire all the water received. Other is possibility of powdery mildew, encouraged by high humidity. What kind of soil/mix is it potted in? Where is this plant kept? How much sunlight is it receiving? Even if you say it dropped lots of leaves, it looks quite etiolated - spaces between internodes are too big. That suggest not enough light. I would also suggest potting plants higher in the pot - the soil level should be higher. That will also help with soil drying up faster and general air circulation that is also important for succulents.
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tsawtell
Original Author
14 years ago
Thanks for the advice. I depotted one of the plants and didn't find any signs of insects or rot on the roots or in the soil.

They may have seen some frost but I removed all the damaged leaves after the plants were inside. The damaged leaves were not soggy or limp. They had the dry tips as show in the photos. New leaves continue to have the dried tips and curl and drop while they are still very small.
norcal916
14 years ago
What part of the Bay Area is your jade plant? I wouldn't think you'd have to bring it inside for the winter unless your in an inland area? I've got a jade in a large container that is kept outside year round for 3 years here in Sacramento...It is doing fantastic (even with 3 nights in the mid 20's back early December), but I admitt it is under my front door overhang so it has that extra few degrees protection! Otherwise, if it was totally exposed it might be a different story.
greenman28 NorCal 7b/8a
14 years ago
Hey, 916!
I'm a Sac State graduate! I live about 35 miles northeast of you in Auburn. My brother lives in Sac and has good luck growing Jades, too. It's always interesting for me to compare the vitality of our plants throughout the seasons. The warmth of Sacramento always seems to give the advantage.

Tim,
I'm posting a few images of my largest Jade, which suffered sub-freezing temps in early December. Thankfully, this Jade was bone-dry...so the damage was confined to the soft tissue of the leaves. You can see the silvery, flaky powder on the leaf-edges. Is this similar to what you're describing? The difference is that the new growth on my Jade is free of any blight or distortion.

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