Brug branches slowly dying top down
phoenixryan
15 years ago
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pagrdnr
15 years agophoenixryan
15 years agoRelated Discussions
HELP! My Thuka is slowly dying
Comments (1)I was surprised to see you were in PSP with a thuja question. I'll be out there in early May and will have to look around to see if people are actually still planting them there. If you check the Sunset Western Garden Book - and you should if you have a landscape - you'll see no Thuja are listed in your SS climate zone if you are on the floor of the valley. For good reason. There's only so long you can throw water at them before they just give up. If you are up the side of the hill somewhat, they might have stopped watering them, and there that is a good bet for demise. I'm fairly sure a secondary pest or two is attacking the weakened plants. You may want to contact the County Extension Agency and see what they recommend for replacements. Good luck!...See MoreHelp! white pines slowly dying
Comments (4)I had a tree planter put in 40 white pines several years ago... At that time they were approx. 6' tall and eventually reached perhaps 15' when I began to notice needle drop, a change in needle color and eventually several died. I had a state arborist check them to see what could be done. I was told that they were suffering from a nematode that often gets into white pines...and in fact, was told not to plant them in Illinois due to the frequency of this problem. I don't know if that's your problem...but I suggest you call and request a county arborist from the extension service to visit your home and check the trees. I eventually lost all 40 of the trees...what a shame! Sorry I didn't plant a heartier variety....See MoreI need help! My shefflera is dying from the top down
Comments (8)Lift the plant from the pot and set the root/soil mass on a stack of newspapers. The papers will act as a wick and pull the excess water from the soil. Monitor the plant's water needs carefully. While the plant doesn't appreciate being left to go completely dry, a very dry soil is less likely to cause problems than a wet soil, so if you must err, err on the dry side. Keep the plant in the light it's accustomed to. Leaves' ability to acclimate to increases and decreases in photo load have limits, and you don't want to risk the plant shedding the foliage it has because you're pushing the limits. At certain times of the year, with healthy plants, there is little concern if leaves cannot tolerate the increased photo load, but a sick plant going into winter MUST retain as much foliage as possible if it's still to be with you come spring. If you're fairly certain the plant is not going to make it through the winter w/o some significant intervention on your part (repotting), you might want to consider that option if you have a soil you can put the plant in that will allow you to water w/o worry the soil will remain soggy so long you're jumping from the pan to the fire. IOW, it doesn't make a lot of sense to change for the sake of change, but it might make sense if you're sure you can improve the plant's lot. Al...See MoreUrgent! Michelia alba slowly dying after being planted in the ground
Comments (5)I would clean up the weeds and small plants around the trunk and give the tree more space. And then, I would add some fresh and clean top soil or potting soil on top of the roots to cover the roots up, about 1/2 to 1 inch, and sprinkle some water to work the soil into the roots. Air bubbles and empty spaces between roots can kill the root hairs on the roots. The soil will fill up those empty spaces. Root hairs are the main tissue to absorb water and nutrients to the tree. Do not add too much of water as we want to avoid water log and root rot. I avoid using organic top soil or organic potting soil as most of them contain manure or other unknown organic substances, especially when the tree is weak right now. If I have some potting plants, I would move them near the tree to create micro-climate to keep it warm in winter, but not too close. Too close could create too much moisture, which promote fungal growth. I also would not let their branches touching each other to avoid scratching each other to create wounds. Move those potting plants away in other part of the year for fresh air and sun light. I would feed it with half strength of Miracle Gro solution for the tree to reduce the transplanting shock, just for one time at this time. Winter is not its time for fertilizing. Too much of fertilizer will promote new growth, which will be killed by cold weather. I agree with Grant Yang's assessment. Michelia alba is a tropical tree. The tree drops some leaves is responding to the cold weather. The roots of Michelia alba are quite brittle. Once it was planted in about the right level with the ground, do not dig it up again. The roots should not be exposed to the air too. Cover the roots up with clean top soil. Bay Area is in rainy season right now. We do not need to water them unless the top soil is dry by a few sunny days. Good luck. I transplanted my 5 years old Michelia alba from pot to ground 3 years ago. It is under a tall Russian Olive tree. I live in East Bay. It is hot in summer and cold in winter. From time to time, it is quite windy too. I have to stick it to keep it straight. I plan to prune it next year to keep it about 12 feet tall....See Morepagrdnr
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