In Italy field-grown roses are lifted when they go into dormancy (or at least get close) beginning in November and continuing through March. Fall planting is ideal as summers are hot and dry in much of the country and the plants have more time to settle in beforehand, and weather conditions in late fall are usually good for planting. How, lifting the roses depends on the weather: it can be delayed by heavy rain, snow, or a hard freeze; and there's a break at the end of the year when everyone in Italy goes on holiday. The Italian nurseries I've dealt with have been specialist growers who lift roses as needed to fill their orders; I don't whether Barni, possibly the largest Italian rose nursery, also prepares roses to sell by retail vendors. My impression is that most of the body bag bareroots come from German or Dutch wholesale growers. I hope this helps. Melissa

"Hello again," to anyone and maybe especially maybe to akamainegrower, if you happen still tobe around this forum... Due partly to my having as yet not been able to get much of any reply to somewhat extensive inquiry sent the past year or so to two (I think--having various inquiries and "feelers" out there to various places, it's a little hard to keep exact track) heavily involved in blueberry research , I've elected for now to try contacting that other type of place you mention: Christmas Tree Growers' Association (s). But, so far , a few weeks later, no response. Of course, the timing isn't necessarily the greatest, being around tree selling time, as well as apt to be time already of some freezing already of the ground. That University of Maine department which you mention, also may be of interest. At the same time, maybe "if" I could , before contacting them, run a test myself to , hopefully, get some sort of actual proof begun, of one or more of my specimens actually being immune-maybe that might help make my inquiry to them or to whomever, more intriguing? Sure seems like it couldn't hurt; and in these days of easy photography and easy communicating, maybe I could at least visually document my efforts doing such actual test. But , besides that the bushes involved are somewhat "well out" in the woods...under a foot of snow and ice I guess, around now...I still will have to somehow come up with a few young fir seedlings or young plants that have the disease (to use as source of disease spores to expose the blueberry bushes to...inside on my big plant-growing window sill, I guess). Maybe --by some longshot chance--someone here would happen to know of and have access for digging up ,of a few young "infected" firs trees (any kind of firs, although if it'd be wild firs rather than tree plantation ones, seems to me it'd most likely end up being "balsam" firs). Young or seedling firs "infected" with this fir-blueberry rust, that is...(the Pucciniastrum goeppertianum one...the one that causes broomlike growths on blueberry plants, and I guess as to on the firs, causes just small yellowish or whitish spore capsule happening on some of the needles . I maybe should stress, in case I haven't mentioned it before, about the "other" kind of witches broom happening with fir trees: the "other" kind does make broomlike growth happening on the firs themselves...but that's a totally separate disease, if/when "that happens". The only ones I'd be interested in are young or seedling firs happening to have gotten the first type of "witches broom " disease, the one wherein it's only the blueberry bushes that get the brooms, with the firs , again, just getting some kind of small-to-tiny tag growths on their needles. I do think that likely as not, patches or areas of firs of most any kind , happening to be very near (especially within maybe 50 to 100 feet[ of a bunch of wild highbush blueberry bushes or a patch of lowbush blueberries, IS by my guess, at least pretty likely to be involved with the blueberries with infection of this disease happening between them. Given these two types of plants growing nearby one another, the infection of this disease that I see as likely, might be easiest to spot the likelihood of, by checking whether the blueberry bushes have any if the broomlike growths showing. There would be pictures readily available (I think I'll also see if I can get hold of some images and post links here, assuming that's allowed and that I can figure out the procedure) to check further what to look for, online such as at Google Images, Yahoo Images, etc. (searching for , probably: witches broom, blueberry. or: fir blueberry rust). Which, especially as to possibly making available to me, a few of these prospective "infected" young firs--would be "going some", I realize. Therefore, here's what I think (hoping there's no proscription here "against" it) I think I can offer (if anybody's not already been too bored , here, to read this far): If anyone can find and have or get access (for digging) such an instance of little fir trees and blueberry bushes growing together, or adjacent, such that it's resulted in the occurrence of this disease, and would be willing to try to dig three or so of the infected firs for my use: than, while it'd be apt to need to be "first come, first served " and maybe only one deal available: I believe can try to make it worth your while, monetarily (make an offer?) Pictures "first," please...of the plants on the site, showing infection (typically very obvious when it happens) of some of the blueberries on the site, with the broom-like growths. Also, if possible, pics of the evidence of the disease on the little firs that would be dug. Maybe send COD, for no risk? or otherwise, putting them for me on Ebay? I'll try to follow here, of course, for replies...while I believe my profile page does have a link for privately emailing me, if anyone wants. "Thanks" to all.

Rhizzo.. Exactly! That is why I never suggested that anyone should do this practice..It was just facts that I stated that happened and that I saw myself. It is another option that one can try if one is desperate or brave enough to alliviate pest issues and provide more room. Before I posted this back then, I was contantly visiting this greenhouse and making sure they did ok..And as the pictures prove, it worked..I tried this on one of my pondersosa lemon trees, and it came back with no problems after 3 months of plucking last winter. I also had a lemon myer that defoliate on it's own for the whole winter, and came back strong once the days staring getting longer in my cool room..... Purposely defoliating trees is not something I suggest to do, just what I saw with my own eyes.. I posted this to show that these trees can be quite resilient if one happens to do so, or just very lucky.. You know the tree that completely defoliated I posted on thread that I forgot to water? It is coming back with growth in places I never saw, very close to the trunk, looking like it is going to fill in nice a bushy, something I could not get this plant to do just trimming the ends off.. Quite interesting..Could it be that not all things quite live up to what is written in the books? Who knows..Those plants and the ones at the nursery proved otherwise.. I also stated so that no ones gets me wrong... "This is something that probably most people would only be able to do if they provide the right conditions for their trees, and keep them on the dry side.... If you have a greenhouse on your side and this older thread can be very encouraging for you:" I personally make it a habit to trim mine up in the growing season because of reason you described and so had Al.. I definatly side with you also with not trying this practice with in home ones..Just my feelings and that of many experienced people suggesting not to like you..If I had a greehouse where my trees flourish, I would try it for an experiment at least..Just me.. I also stated that, it is recommended that one holds off till spring to cut back their plants, but I do not wait if it is needed, and still never have a problem.. Ever since I saw the local nursery continually pluck EVERY leaf off all their citrus, all winter to avoid pest's, just to see them keep pushing growth, made me think.. "I usually prefer to trim in the growing season as suggested, usually about June, but if I have too, I do anyway with no worries..If I do not have too, I will pluck the TIPS off to to keep it bushy if new growth occurs and suggested by a very good friend who knows pruning very well.. " While what you say is absoulutely correct, no denying that, I question too why their trees come back stronger than ever after an all winter defoliation? If anyone thinks I am encouraging or suggesting plucking all your leaves off, I am not, and I thank Rhizzo for clarifying that and the possible consequences.. Rhizzo is much more experienced at growing healthy trees and full of great advice, and if she suggests not too, then I would take her words strongly seriously It is just an option one can choose to decide for them selves based on the pictures and what I saw.. Mike :-))))

Thanks for the additional input. I bought six bales of Pro Mix BX for the pots I had going. I figure there's no need tossing it if it can be easily reused. scoville, thanks. I was planning to dump it on a large tarp and cover with black plastic in the spring to bake it for a few weeks. dancinglemons, I was just going to amend with compost and some pine bark but I'll research your suggestions regarding Lime and Myco(?). John, I've seen some shots of your containers you've posted in the past. Yes, I can appreciate how much of an investment filling yours with Pro Mix was. Cheers, Bill