Generally, in the mid-to North parts of this country, Labor Day is the time to think about stopping watering and letting the plants dry. Depending on the weather and heat this can take about a month. I don't know much about your plant but I can see it probably is tuberous from the flowers which show influence of B. boliviensis, a tuberous species. Whether to store it in its basket or clean the tubers and store them separately depends on other things. I think the garage would be fine if it doesn't freeze in there,

So should i bring them in before first frost? Also, sevaeral of them are setting seed, i was wondering if this variety will come true from seed and if so what is the best way to collect/store the seeds until it's time to sow them. Also can tuberous begonias be propagated from cuttings?

Whoops just found the other thread on rooting tuberous begonias which answered that question. I'd still like to know about the seeds and timing of bringing them in. Thanks!

When the pods look dark brown carefully snip the dry pod stem and let the pods drop into an envelope. A lotof seeds will be free and ready to pour out into some storage envelope, but try and leave any chaff or other dry pieces behind. Selfed seeds should produce plants which look a great deal like the parent, but may not be the show stoppers the originals were.

i read that the plant starts working on tuber once the temps (nite?) drop below 62F. but i would not keep them out when temps (day or nite) go below 38-40F. they start sufferin a bit. it might be better for the tuber to bring them in then. no water and just let them dry up and drop the stems by themselves: so they can extract max nutrients from the leaves. last year i brought them in almost mid-november. but normally it would be earlier.
i also give them a diff ratio ferts 1:2:1 to help set the tuber when temps drop to 45-55F (that's what they do with caladiums, so i figured it should work for begonias too).
also once the temps drop into 40s make sure to keep them rather dry, hardly any water at all and under roof - so no raining on them.
but they'll need to be in somewhat cooler place indoors to dry-up. may be not higher then 60-65F? mine dried up ok at around that (i don't have a cooler spot), they still had many good leaves too, but i wanted to force them into dormancy.
and they might take even 6 weeks to totally decline while looking ratty. i leave the tubers in pots until feb - them i dig them up, clean, etc, change soil and put them very shallow, but still right under surface - so i can watch for eyes or until time that i decide to start them. this way even small tubers will not dry up totally.
but if you're keeping your pots with tubers in a very cool space (low 40?) then the soil can't be even be slightly moist - they'll rot. so you need to water very carefully at the end, when it's still outside.
so by the time you bring them in - they'be been kept dry for sev weeks.

This post was edited by petrushka on Sat, Oct 4, 14 at 21:02

Wow thank you for all the info that's exactly what i needed.

I agree with what Petrushka said. I overwintered my basket indoors due to lack of options and was much less careful than she describes, and it worked fine. I grew Santa Cruz Sunset from seed last year. Much more impressive the second summer. You will love yours even more next year.

I've saved some seed from mine to see what I get. "Bonfire Scarlet" gave me seedlings very similar to their mom.

My favorite source of info is below.

Here is a link that might be useful: Brad's Begonia World