Both of the last two responses are very correct! I know most growers hate technical responses but I really don't know any other way to explain why fast draining soil that can stay damp is so important to an aroid. I will do my best to keep this understandable. Despite the belief of far too many growers, growing aroids is not just about the water content of the soil. The advice to water only once a week and keep the top two inches of the soil dry is not always good advice since many aroids and other plant species grow naturally in wet soil. Spathiphyllum species happen to be one of those aroids. . Instead growing them well is about the fast flow of water through the soil or the lack thereof that causes a lack of oxygen, anerobic fermentation and saprophytes that turn into pathogens. OK, I know i almost lost you there so let me explain. Saprophytes are organisms including fungus or bacteria that grow on and draw nourishment from dead or decaying organic matter. That often includes soggy wet soil. The pathogens (bad stuff) attack the roots and cause them to rot so all of the advice to "slow down on the water" is really about how to control the pathogens. If the soil around a potted plant has ever smelled terrible then you have been around saprophytic soil. Fermentation and saprophytes often occur in muddy soil that will not not allow the roots to breathe but they don't necessarily occur in water which is why we can cause a plant that is about to die to grow new roots in clean water. Personally, I've been growing a bunch of Peace lilies in an aquarium for a long time with no soil at all so it isn't the water around their roots that kill them. Have you ever seen a Peace lily for sale in an aquarium store? It is common. As a result, it is necessary to use soil mixes that allow the roots to breathe and will not remain soggy. I've attempted in many threads to explain the necessity of mixing proper soil for plants but the advice is often ignored since it requires some "work" on the part of the plant's keeper. The favorite advice to adopt always requires the least amount of effort, not necessarily what is best for the plant. The reason a plant's roots s rot is not the amount of water given to the plant These are rain forest plants and are literally drowned for months at a time! If you could visit a rain forest you would quickly learn the soil is composed of leaf litter, decaying wood, compost, animal droppings and the charcoal left behind when a part of the forest burns. Tropical plants love to grow in a tropical climate and tropical climates don't all roots to dry out. If we'll just listen to Mother Nature we can all make our plants grow as they do in nature. OK, I can hear people saying right now that an individual grower cannot duplicate Mother Nature. Sorry, a bunch of us do it all the time. I grow over 300 species of aroids in that type of climate. That is precisely what I attempt to explain when I recommend mixing fast draining soil, not just buying a bag at the store. The goal of the non-compacting mix is to allow the roots to freely find places to extend and grow without constantly finding wet places where they will rot. This mix explained earlier will remain damp but drain quickly and as you can see from the photo above will make the plants thrive. It will even do so in a pot with a saucer underneath. Rather than using a rich, soggy soil and watering only once a week (or less), use a soil that holds moisture well but drains quickly. Now that I've bored you to tears feel free to pot any aroid the way you choose. There are lots of trains of thought on how this should be done but I just prefer Mother Nature's advice. We have at least one of these plants that is well over 20 years old and lives in fast draining soil while others live only in water. Great growing! Steve Lucas www.ExoticRainforest.com Corresponding Secretary, the International Aroid Society All of that said, please read this: The author of this post does not claim to be a botanical expert. The quotes and/or sources used are noted solely to provide information from qualified and trained scientific experts. Credits are given to the owners of scientific information since that is considered proper protocol in botany. No attempt is being made to associate this author with these experts as a peer, only an interested grower. Accepted facts in horticulture and botanical science sometimes differ so if the answers or remarks given differ from what you have already accepted to be factually accurate please feel free to dispute the information, ignore this post, or preferably attempt to communicate directly with the botanical sources via the FACEBOOK account http://www.facebook.com/pages/South-Miami-FL/International-Aroid-Society/291094100787 of the International Aroid Society www.Aroid.org The sole goal is to share information. All that said, I just want growers to know the facts of aroids. Steve Here is a link that might be useful: The International Aroid Society FACEBOOK account

Now comes some tidbits from a Floridian! First, Rexes do not thrive in FL. They are grown in temp controlled greenhouses with swamp coolers, which is why you see them for sale. Although it may feel muggy if you are in one, the temp is lowered during the day and cooled at night - relatively. There are newer rex/rhizo hybrids I am growing with success, but pure rexes never make it in our hot, wet summers. It is truly the hot nights that kill them. 80F lows are not uncommon. In habitat, rexes see 68-70F at night. Secondly, whomever started this thread is growing in soil that is way too heavy. I use Fafard #2 with additional perlite and pine bark added. I also keep my begonias barely potted up - like a few inches larger when they need it. That ensures the soil does not stay wet, which kills begonias. If you struggle to pick up a bag of soil, it is too heavy. I have five foot canes in 3 gallon pots. I can easily pick up a 3 gallon cane with one hand - that is what they prefer. Keeping that in mind should help you grow great begonias! Picture is my bench of 'River Nile'! Greg Sytch, ABS Horticultural Corresondent

Spiders are beneficial insects - devouring the bad ones (and some good ones too). If it is objectionable then brush the web out and the spider will probably take up residence elsewhere. As long as it is not a poisonous spider you should be able to get along nicely with it until it is time for bringing your plant indoors.

Apologies, I realized immediately that I accidentally posted this in the wrong section: http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/propa/msg1207302423372.html