Is your planter on bare ground or directly on a hard surface (eg concrete or a rocky patch)? What's the drainage like? For example - I made a 'tabletop' planter which has a slatted bottom. I lined it with overlapping plastic bags then put in a mix of composts - one of which is very rich. Despite being three feet off the ground, with seeping drainage, and being only 8" deep - the bottom layer of the mix is very 'cluggy'. Further - despite being very well-rotted compost, the growth from the first year was disappointing. Using the same mix for a second year, after weathering, the results have been much better. The leaves. I may have misread. I gained the impression that you had used them as a further 'water-holder' layer. Sometimes buried material can be a bit toxic while it rots. I'd use leaves on the top, as a protective mulch over a serving of, say, blood and bone (but I don't have critters, as such :-)) ) Not buried. (That's not a lot of depth for bigger bulbs to get their roots down. At least four inches above and below the actual bulb, if they have to dodge the frost.) The sand. Nononono. Grit, yes. Sand and compost is for serious water-lovers. Gunnera and pondside plants. 3-5mm sharp grit well stirred through. A good gritty mix encourages root development. If you have mountain streams in your area with shingle beaches - look at the root development of plants growing in that medium. The tops might be stunted but the roots spread far and wide as they forage. If your planter has settled over winter - I'd add some genuine soil. Dirt out the garden. Not subsoil clay. Reasonable topsoil, if you have it. In an outdoor planter of the size you have the soil seems to add 'sturdiness' to the mix and the plants. One bucket of dirt, one of compost, half of grit. Later on, I'd add the ancient cowpats and good garden compost to suit the taste of whatever I was planting. And add an organic mulch if water-loss, or wind is an issue in the garden, once the soil has warmed up and growth is well under way. For now - I'd rescue the perennials and pot them up fairly tightly until they've developed a vigorous root system again. A gritty mix will help for most of them, so long as you water with care. You didn't list what you were growing. For a mix as juicy as you've offered, I'd be growing things such as polyanthus, or Dahlias, maybe Hostas and Dicentra. For something like tuberous Begonia - I'd wait for the second year. If you bought pot-grown perennials and they were slightly root-bound - remember to open the base of the rootball a little so they can start spreading. If they were slips and bare-rooted - don't expect wonders this year. Some can take up to two years to settle in and then shock you by becoming garden thugs :-(. Meantime, you could sneak in a few coloured lettuces and use the benefits tastily! Or try some bedding Impatiens and Lobelia while the soil ingredients settle down.

I love the set up. I wouldn't mind living in a house that looked like that sorrounded by all those trees and that well kept lawn that just ripples around quietly. I can just imagine running out there and play with the dogs. Then on the upper side, there is the amaryllis flower bed with lines of amaryllis blooming at the same time with different forms and colors... Of course, he is lucky. He is in Brazil. He can have the Papillios planted out there for him left out all year round.

I used to grow these. If you give them more light (natural or fluorescent), they'll grow a bit shorter, and therefore, sturdier and balanced. Otherwise, they'll grow tall and have a tendency to tip over. After they bloom, cut off the bloom stalk, and allow the foliage to grow. For this, steady and regulated light is necessary, whether inside or outside. If you want blooms at Christmas, you would force a dormancy by withholding water, starting around the second week in August. You would place the pot in a dark, cool basement or a garage that doesn't freeze, and you would allow it about a 10-12 week rest. Some people will tip the pot on its side so they remember not to water. Once the leaves have died back, they can be removed. After the 10-12 weeks, check the bulb ... there may some bud growth at this point. In any case, bring it back into a warm, bright room and water it. You should see growth begin shortly. The natural bloom cycle of a Hippeastrum takes place in spring, so if you choose not to force a dormancy, you can grow your bulb like a houseplant, giving it as much light as possible, and feeding and watering as it requires. With good care, your bulb should bloom in spring. It may not bloom the first spring following purchase, but if conditions are right, the following spring should bring blooms. Then replant in refreshed soil, and the bulb should bloom in about 12 weeks. PS. Keep a plant pest spray on hand for the fungus gnats. This post was edited by aegis500 on Mon, Nov 24, 14 at 18:20

I am aware of that and that is the reason they are going to be up against the deck. If they survive, they survive. If not, oh well. I have a few evergreens that survive here. I get a few mico-climates in this big yard. :) Ginny