Kentucky Blue Grass (KBG) is probably the dominant grass used in lawns in the Salt Lake Valley, so that is probably the grass you have now. It can deal with drought by going dormant, but as hot and dry as it has been lately, if it didn't get any water for three weeks, it may have died (part of my lawn died when a sprinkler head stopped rotating right after I did my monthly inspection). You could try to water it and see if it comes back, but you might be better off reseeding. If you want a lawn that will stay green without any additional water, you have pretty limited choices. Buffalo grass or a mixture of buffalo grass and blue grama will stay green without additional water (you may need to water once or twice in a year like this year). They're a little different color than what you're used to seeing. Buffalo grass is sort of gray green and grama is sort of blue green. The grama is a bunch grass and the buffalo grass spreads (and fills in) by stolons (above ground runners like a strawberry plant has). If you want a really soft lawn, you'll want to get a buffalo grass like legacy, that you can plant from plugs (no seeds that way--buffalo grass has prickly seeds). Buffalo grass isn't cheap, though, especially not from sod. Blue grama is pretty easy to get started, but it's tough to spread the seeds (they're like dust and often have a lot of chaff with them). In Orem, a buffalo grass lawn will probably not start to turn green until sometime in May and will probably start to turn brown in September. You might get a week or two more of green on either end than I would, so maybe early May to late September/early October. But it will definitely turn brown earlier in the fall than your current lawn and will definitely stay brown later in the spring. The grama will be green a little earlier in the spring and a little later in the fall than the buffalo grass. Two cool season grasses that will stay green with no water (may need a little in a year like this) are western wheatgrass and sheep fescue. I think Arizona fescue and Idaho Fescue will also stay green. western wheatgrass can be difficult to get started initially, but it spreads aggressively once it gets started. The fescues are all bunch grasses. Streambank wheatgrass and crested wheatgrass will stay alive with no additional water, but they'll go dormant once the rains stop and will green up again in the fall. Streambank wheatgrass spreads via rhizomes like western wheatgrass. Older varieties of Crested wheatgrass are bunch grasses but newer varieties like Roadcrest and Ephraim are mildly rhizomatous. Crested wheatgrass was introduced from Russia, and the others are all native. For buffalo grass and grama, you're probably too late to seed. Those should be seeded in late spring or early summer. I seeded a little grama a couple of weeks ago, but I was already cutting it close. The other grasses can be planted in the fall. If you haven't planted by September 15, I think I'd wait until early winter and dormant seed (seed when it's too cold for them to sprout and they'll germinate in the spring as soon as conditions are right). You'll have best results with any of these if you kill your existing lawn first. For the buffalo grass and grama, it's probably necessary. I'm assuming the water in the spot that died from too much water is from your watering, right? The reason I ask is that none of these grasses deal very well with too much water. They can generally deal with spring flooding, but if you water them like a KBG lawn, they'll die. The wheatgrasses and sheep fescue are less expensive than buffalo grass, but they're still a little pricy (although maybe not compared with the elite KBG seeds many people here buy). I can provide links to some places that sell the various seeds if you're interested.

Keith, I wasn't thinking about the Earthtainers in terms of the plants appearance, because some years Raybo's plants look less-than-beautiful by mid-season too. In other years, though, his plants look a lot better than my plants, whether mine are in the ground or in containers. However, Raybo's plants always produce high numbers of fruit and that interests me. I was really posting the info about Earthtainers because there are a lot of new gardeners who want to grow tomato plants in very limited space, and for them something like an Earthtainer or Earth Box or Grow Box might be more effective than growing in the ground if their ground, or their time, are very limited. Or, growing in a self-watering container that might let them try growing something in an easier way than the usual process of breaking up the soil and improving it. Then, if successful with a self-watering container, they might branch out and try an in-ground garden. I get really high production from plants grown in molasses tubs but have to water them a lot. If I could get equal production from Earthtainers without having to water 2 or 3 times a day during the peak of the season, I'd be a happy camper. So why haven't I tried Earthtainers? Mostly it is because I know that too much water causes all kinds of tomato problems, including cracking, splitting and watered-down flavor. So, I am skeptical that tomatoes grown in self-watering containers would taste as good as those exactly same varieties grown in the ground. For me, high production is important but so is growing tomatoes with great flavor. I do think it would be interesting to try it, though. And, for urban gardeners looking to produce a lot in a little space, the SWCs could be a great solution. I have wondered, too, if tomato plants in self-watering containers in our climate would suck up all the water from the reservoir daily and if I'd still be watering every day even if using them. I think there's a good chance that would occur, so if it did, then SWCs wouldn't really be an improvement over regular containers, would they? Years before I ever saw one of Raybo's Earthtainers on the tomato forum, a guy named Josho was building something similar but simpler, and I remember seeing photos of those long ago. and I've toyed with the idea of trying them, but haven't done it yet (which says something, doesn't it, about me either being wishy-washy or just not wanting to take on one more gardening task in the months when the days are too long, and so is the 'to do' list). One of these years, I'll try an Earthtainer or Earthbox or Grow Box, or all three at the same time. I don't know that it will be this year, though. Jay, I've always felt the same way....that our climate is more harsh and likely we would not have the same results, or maybe we'd get large yields but watered down flavor. However, I feel kind of bad about automatically dismissing them without trying them. Maybe I'd be surprised and a self-watering container would produce better than I think. I used to think you couldn't grow celery here in our climate, and you've proven me wrong on that one, lol, so maybe we're making the wrong assumptions on SWCs in our climate too. Who knows? If I had a friend or relative wanting to try gardening for the first time ever in the simplest way possible, though, I'd recommend they try a tomato plant in a self-watering container and one in a standard large container. I'd suggest they grow the two side-by-side and see which one performed better and which one gave them the best-tasting tomatoes and the best yields. That's the only way they (or any of us) could be sure about the merits of a SWC versus a standard container. We're looking at the southern drought spreading into OK from the east and south and making our gardening lives less easy in 2011, and I know I am going to have to settle for a smaller garden/lower yields, etc. If I thought SWCs would make a difference (and I haven't decided if I think they would or wouldn't), I'd make some SWCs in January when it is too cold and icky to be outside and would try them with the February-planted early tomatoes. If I liked what I saw from them, I might try them with a couple of mid-season tomatoes planted slightly later. I think that in a typical year here, the SWCs might not be worth the time or expense, but in a really epic drought year, they might. Here at our house, with the heavy red clay soil, an epic drought gives us soil as hard as concrete and it dries so hard that when you try to water, the water rolls downhill into the retention pond at the foot of the garden and very little gets absorbed. Even inproved clay soil that is heavily mulched just doesn't perform well in the worst drought conditions, because we cannot afford to spend as much money as it takes to keep the soil moist in those conditions. So, the real question for me is whether or not I think 2011 will be an epic drought year or just a moderate one. On that point, I am undecided, but here at our house, rainfall has plummeted the last 6 or 8 weeks and I believe our 2011 drought has begun. Our ground (and, remember, we had oodles of rain in Sept. and early Oct.) is cracking and I'm having to water the soil around the foundation about every 3rd or 4th day. Wildfires are increasing. I have been watching very, very closely all the info coming out of the U. S. Drought Monitor and the Texas Forest Service, since our property is surrounded on three sides by Texas and our conditions here are more like theirs than those found even 50 miles north of us in OK. I'm not liking what I am seeing coming out of Texas and other states in the south plagued by drought. Also, I've noticed through simple observation that in the years when La Nina brings heavy, heavy snow to the upper third of the USA, we almost always have a dry winter that carries us into spring very dry. Starting a garden in a dry spring is not easy. In 2003, I was slow to recognize the early start to the drought and waited too late to begin irrigating. I did a better job of irrigating earlier in 2005, but the drought finished off my garden in July anyway, and then except for a one day rainfall of over 9" in April 2006, we had the same issues in 2006. I just dread the thought of 2011 being like those years, but I think it likely. I think there's a good chance we'll have extreme drought issues in 2011 and if the La Nina weather pattern hangs on into the summer months, we could see exceptional drought, so I'm working on ways to combat those conditions. For me, it probably will be a once-and-done garden where I go into the gardening season with the knowledge that after July 1st, irrigation will cost more than it is worth and I won't irrigate after July 1st. That also means I'd be less likely to succession plant. It has been several years since I've done that, but in extreme to exceptional drought, there's really not any other choice. With the container-grown plants, I can water with a drip irrigation system and keep them going even if extreme drought is occurring, unless we have water rationing. However, in all the years we've lived here, we haven't had water rationing a single time so far in our community, so I don't expect it in 2011 unless one of the water company's wells runs dry or has techinical difficulties. It could be that in a year of extreme to exceptional drought, SWCs would be the ultimate solution for someone like me who wants to garden despite the drought. I guess I'll never know, though, if I don't try it. I may be the only gardener in southern OK obsessing over whether the southern drought will make gardening a nightmare in 2011, but what I'm seeing in Texas, and Georgia (where the winter onion plantings are in serious trouble due to drought) and points in between makes me think 2011 is going to be the most challenging year since 2005-2006 unless the La Nina weather pattern abruptly turns back neutral, which seems unlikely. I feel like I've become obsessed with drought the last 2 or 3 weeks, but that's because I'm working on my 'Grow List' for 2011, and I almost feel like I need to have two lists.....one list of what I'll plant if we're having normal weather (as if there is even such a thing as normal weather here) and a second list of what I'll plant if we seem to be in the early stages of a prolonged drought at planting time. Dawn

Lightly .. OMG!! I've tried everything to get that tape off. I can't believe they put it on there like that. It is very VERY dried on there. The tape is so dried even little bits won't come off. I have tried repeated soakings, vinegar etc. dish soap. I'm going to go get some Goo Gone. Can I get goo gone at walmart you think? Teacats.. thanks! Whew.. I am relieved it looks good. Yes I am going with a pair of tall thin buffet lamps on either side. I have a bunch saved on my list LOL.. The buffet lamps will be another post muhaha Okay you guys have me feel great now. the height seems okay?

Tonight is the last predicted night under 40... so tomorrow I finally get to pot up the peppers into their containers to put out in the solarium for a week or two to establish before they go outside. The solarium is usually a good 10 degrees warmer than overnight temps. Unfortunately, I used up the last 8 seed of the Farmers jalapeno in a second planting round and none of them sprouted. I only got 1 out of the first 5 seed I planted. Last year I tried growing them and that seed batch failed too. I think I got a bum seed packet. I got it from Tradewinds along with a few other peppers, and all the rest of the seed from them germinated great last year and this year. Also from them I'm trying Trinidad Perfume again- last years peppers were so flaming hot I wasn't sure if the packet was mis-labeled or if it was due to plant stress, so I'm trying them again this year. And I do mean flaming- I was expecting something a bit milder than a jalapeno or hot cherry, and instead they were about as hot as my peach habaneros. Anywho. I had a cat-strophe, so now I'm down to 24 plants total. Still a few more than my original plans of 15-18, but not too many. I have the pots and potting soil for it, and the space- though it maxes out my container space.