Check the undersides of the leaves for scale and or spider mites. Also, cut way back on watering at this time of year. I let mine get really dry before rewatering. Anything you can do to increase indoor humidity around it would also be helpful. Citrus are not the easiest indoors, which is way I started overwintering mine in the garage years ago. You might also consider posting on the CITRUS forum (pics are helpful too). Good luck.

what they said ...

but my guess is the change in light intensity has caused the leaves to fall off ..

even in a window... especially double paned ... light intensity is very low.. and this time of year.. very weak ...

supplemental light is probably necessary ...

i highly agree.. the plants need to nearly dry .. in between waterings ...

pix would really help ... size info.. media info.. etc ...

in my house.. with forced air.. ALL TREES SUFFER ... especially in a month or so.. when the humidifier is struggling to maintain 30% humidity ... tree leaves just cant cope with that ...

ken

I have checked for spider mites theres nothing i understand i should put peat moss in the soil is this right?

peat moss holds too much water for most trees ...

think cactus mix ...

are you thinking of repotting a severely stressed plant ... that might just be enough stress to put it over the edge ...

you are on the verge of loving them to death ...

let them dry..

let them acclimate ..

and tell us about the light situation ...

do you see any viable buds on the branch tips????

over the hills and thru the woods to grandmas house we go... see you tomorrow...

happy thxgvng

ken

Lady Bug, take a look at the thread linked below. It is part of a multi-part thread that has had around 2000 responses so far (making it, by far, the most popular thread on GardenWeb, so far as I know). I believe reading at least what Al writes at the beginning of the thread will be WELL worth your time!

Here is a link that might be useful: Container Soils - Water Movement & Retention

I put alot of info together and this is what i did,don't know if right or wrong.First i wash the lemon in cool water really good then I took real good potting soil along with cactus soil and about 2 cups of peat moss mixed it really good and planted the lemon in the soil,i didn't water it theres moisture in the soil,then i put it back in the window where it gets lots of light.the growing stem is good and green but theres no leaves,i guess all i can do now is wait.This is the 2nd plant i've had this problem with,hopefully i can save it.Don't understand why the Tangerine dosen't have this problem there both citrus.

Lady Bug, the major problem with peat moss is that it increases moisture extremes. When the peat moss is moist and there's water available, it hold too much water and can cause root rot. When peat moss dries out, it can resist rewetting attempts and actually repel water, leading to a drought-like condition.

Al covers some of the other problems with peat moss (especially in significant amounts) in his post. As he explains, adding other ingredients to peat moss (cactus soil, for instance) doesn't necessarily take care of the problems.

So should i replant the lemon in just cactus soil or is it to late its gone?

These guys have given great advice.

If you re-pot again, try 3 parts perlite to 1 part cactus soil.
Remove the old soil from the root ball, and then work the new mix between every single root.
Water well, then wait for the mix to dry.

Stick a wooden skewer or dowel deep into the container to determine when to water.
If the dowel comes out clean and dry, water. If wet and dark, don't water.

You can also stick a "wick" into the drainage holes and allow it to dangle below
the pot. This will allow the water to seek the new "low spot," and will help drain
excess moisture from the lowest layers of the pot (where water perches and roots rot).

All of this info comes from Al's container gardening Thread linked above.

Josh

Meyers do not handle changes in light, temp, humidity well; they do a little better, if you can make the adjustment gradually; i.e. sun to partial sun, to shade, then indoors. In Zone 4 I would probably opt for leaving them outside, covering with a blanket or light tarp with a 75 watt bulb inside on cold nights; and only bringing them inside on the coldest nights, then back to the sun as soon as the temperature gets above 30 degrees F.
The tree will do better outside always, as long as the temp. is 30 or higher. When you make rapid light changes, the tree drops the leaves it had grown for sunlight and tries to replace them with more efficient leaves for low light. I understand that I am anthropomorphizing here, but I hope you get the idea. For the rest of this Winter, I would leave it where it is and in the mix you have; it might not survive another shock at such a young age; as the tree grows it will store more carbohydrates in the trunk and branches that allow it to "suffer" more without major damage. When you can put it out in the Spring, that would be the time to make another change in the mix. BTW, if you posted this on the Citrus forum, there are lots of folks there that could help you better than I.