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Cherry tree leaves, fungus?

12 years ago

Hello, I planted a Bing and Black Tartarian Cherry tree in my backyard a year ago. I noticed on the leaves that there were strange brown/black spots all around the edges of the leaves. The spots moved inward toward the stem in a line of dots. I'm having trouble identifying what could be causing this. Here is a link to photos of the leaves. http://imageshack.us/g/705/dscn0108nj.jpg/ Thanks in advance for any help.

Alton

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Comments (4)

ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
12 years ago
how hot do the surrounding rocks get????

looks to me.. more like they are frying in heat.. rather than a disease .... and it will be very hard to differentiate between the chicken and the egg ...

perhaps it is a severely stressed tree.. due to ambient heat ... upon which a disease has now settled ... if so.. no amount of cure is going solve the stress ...

CA is awfully giant... tell use more about where you are.. and perhaps a bigger pic of the whole yard .... and throw in some info about what the summer weather was like.. and what your watering protocol was/is .... and how you planted it.. as far as unwinding roots.. amending the soil.. etc ....

ken
ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
12 years ago
it is NOT evergreen in your area is it???

if not.. then arent those leaves going to fall off soon ..

my cherry/prunus lost their ugly leaves about 2 months ago ...

winter is coming soon.. even in CA .. lol

if so.. do NOT waste effort on controlling a disease at this time of year .. just clean up the leaves once they fall off ..

this is where you tell us this is some magical CA cherry that stays evergreen..

there is a fruit forum.. and i havent seen the great fruitman over here.. he usually comes up with fruit theory i dont study in the tree forum..

good luck

ken
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Keep in mind too that all members of the genus Prunus-this includes your trees-are notoriously short-lived. If it's not this fungus, it will be that bacteria (Black knot) that'll get them. Just not a long-term member of the landscape, nor does it make sense to mobilize a bunch of fungicides, etc. to try to halt the inevitable. For longer-term small ornamental trees, there are better choices out there. For my money, you still can't beat the right flowering crab for a relatively long-lived attractive ornamental tree. By "right", I mean one which has good resistance to apple scab disease, fireblight-a bacterial wilt, and one having persistent fruit, meaning the crabapples hang onto the plant long into fall/winter. Still the best, as far as I'm concerned. +oM
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there is a very active fruit forum.. where you might get advice on pruning .. especially if you insert a pic of the whole tree.. right in the post ... the concern on the fungus.. in my world.. warped as it is.. is whether it is coming from a gaping wound.. or just on bark surface.. and not even knowing what it is/was ... surface stuff.. just wouldnt have bothered me.. beyond wondering ... ken
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jean001a
12 years ago
Dr4ought stress. Reason: dead tissue is between the veins; i.e. a distance from the water source.

Pot size is limiting it. As is reflected heat from the surroundings.

That tree needs to go into the ground or a VERY LARGE container.
rhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7
12 years ago
It seems like gardeners who live in some of the hottest locations use white stone as their 'mulch' of choice. I just cringe when I view pictures of the typical planting bed in, say, Arizona (for example). I've often wondering how stone becomes the norm in such places?

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