Given what you describe, and assuming I was able to do so safely, I'd have the trees chopped up into firewood by the end of the week. Trees in your landscape are there for your enjoyment and pleasure; if they are no longer enjoyable or pleasurable, it's time for them to go.

Damon If I read you correctly, you can't source the Bayer tree and shrub product. Hence, it's a moot point about whether or not it can be injected. But, if you do score some, I'd highly recommend using it as per the label directions. It will work, although timing is important here. It would have been better to have applied it last Fall. Still, it may not be to late. Merit is another name for essentially the same product. I'm glad to see you are intending to improve the cultural practices around the tree. That is always the first step in tree health. +oM

I think it will be very easy to dig up and, especially if you didn't tease the roots out, the rootball should be completely intact. It's kind of a judgment call on how to precede with the rootball. You have two factors working together against you. The first is that, from your description, it sounds as if the tree was potbound. That means that the roots are unlikely to grow out into the surrounding soil (and may even become girdling roots later on) unless they are either spread out or properly prepared. The second factor is that you are planting the tree in the very worst time possible. If you were planting a non-potbound pot-grown tree this time of year, it would probably be perfectly fine. If you were planing a potbound tree, and prepared it correctly, in the middle to late fall, in the winter, or in early spring, it would be fine. The problem arises when the root system needs to be compromised for the future health of the tree but the tree needs all of it's root system intact to survive the stress of transplanting in very hot weather. Is there a chance of being able to take it back where you bought it and get your money back? It sounds like the tree isn't in great shape. Trees should not be potbound when they are sold. If that's not an option, I think you'd probably be best off to try to carefully untangle (tease) the roots out around the rootball surface. Keep as much of the rootball intact as possible to lessen transplant shock, but be sure no roots circle more than about a quarter of the rootball. You may have to cut a few of them to get things straightened out. If you do cut them individually, cut them as they emerge from the rootball before they start to wrap around. The roots will tend to sprout out in the direction of the cut root end. Do what you can to limit the amount of root disturbance while eliminating encircling roots that won't grow out into surrounding soil and may girdle the trunk or the root system as they grow. Once you've got the tree replanted, be sure to mulch the entire planting area correctly (see info in link above) and keep an extremely careful check on soil moisture (see link). Properly maintaining soil moisture is going to be critical the the survival of this tree.

Take tip cuttings may through June. 6-8 inches long. base of cutting just becoming hard..remove terminal bud. apply 0.2% IBA (rooting hormone) Stick in well drained soil & mistroooting time 12-24 days. bottom heat helpful