We have received, and planted, over the past few years several viburnums from Forest Farm. They came 4 plants to the box and were about 12 inches tall when shipped. They grow slowly and most, if not all, had no berries the first full growing season. Most were shipped and planted in the fall--with the exception of the V. dilatatum, which were shipped and planted in the spring of '06. The dilatatum included 2 'Iroquois', 1 'Asian Beauty' and 1 Michael Dodge. This was the first year that all have berries. We have also received V. burejaeticum and I must admit that it is perhaps the most unimpressive of our entire Viburnum collection which includes V. lantana 'Varigatum' (a beautful plant and the quality of the foliage, its texture, is as impressive as the color of the leaves), a 'Mohican', a 'Summer Reflection' (very nice in its 3rd full growing season here), a 'Cayuga' (established next to a x carlcephalum for purpose of cross pollination and fruit) and the carlcephalum (my absolute favorite for its incredible fragrance and its tree-like habit and size), a rhytidocarpum (nice and large and good habit, I like it a lot), a V. lantana (plucked up from the road side just 2 miles west of town---any wonder why it is also known as the Wayfaring tree?), a pragense (really beautiful with its waxy sheeny leaves and evergreen appearance in the coldest of winter), several Korean Spice, which freely spouts up in the beds from the seeds--this is the easiest viburnum to reproduce, just pluck up the volunteers and put them down where-ever you desire), and finally, we have several planted around which are the result of the cross pollination of all the above described. What a joy to experience these plants and plant the seedings sprouting up and waiting to see if perhaps we too may have, one day, a new Viburnum 'cultivar' --however, if that happens, who can say what the parents were?? We wouldn't be able to testify as to the ancestory other than, possibly, all or any of the above. Oh, almost forgot to mention the first love, Alleghany, six were BB and planted in the spring of 2001. Now about 12 feet tall and incredible for their tight, full habit, dark green, leathery folige, abundant fruit, great flowering the spring, and always show perfect--except a bit tattered by winter's end. Alleghany is what hooked us on Viburnum. Saw them for the first time in the winter at Spring Mill State Park Lodge in Indiana and had to have them in our yard so wasted no time in discovering what name, what type, were these beautiful plants and good busy acquiring and planting.

Ahem. They're called 'chokeberry' for a reason. Yes, they're chock-full of antioxidants, but I'm afraid you're going to be sorely disappointed if you're anticipating them to be as tasty as blueberries. Not all that great for fresh eating. Esh is right - fall color is great, on the ones I've seen. I've eaten fruits from A.melanocarpa; not horrible, but nowhere nearly as tasty as a blueberry or serviceberry.

OK, where do I begin? First, I would really discourage doubling batches. It's something an experienced preserver can get away with but it's fraught with risk. For one thing, it increases the time necessary to reach that magical 221 and may result in an overcooked inferior product. The very best traditional preserves are cooked fast for optimal flavor. It also increases the likelihood of waste. Traditional preserving is both art and craft. Even with a thermometer there's an element of chance; only time and multiple batches will lead to the experience that gets you more consistent results. I'm not encouraging you to give up. I love this kind of thing. But sometimes I was gritting my teeth trying to figure out why a preserve "went wrong." Second, to improve the likelihood of getting a good set, use 1/4 underripe fruit. It has a higher natural pectin level. Strawberries are problematic anyway. Depending upon the region and the growing conditions they may or may not set well. They are one of the more difficult fruits. Be aware also that many traditional preservers do accept a softer set as the "price" for a preserve with fuller fruit flavor, less sugar and no commercial pectin. You won't necessarily get a firm set comparable to the standard commercial-pectin jams. Even if you cook and cook to evaporate out the water, the best you'll get is tar, or as Annie says, "taffy." My inclination when a set is less firm than I might like is to say, "Oh well," and use the preserve as a syrup or sauce, stirred into yogurt or ice cream (or even frosting, as an ingredient in cakes, whatever. For me, flavor is foremost). If you macerate the fruit in sugar then cook it until it's translucent, let it rest in the syrup overnight, then strain it out before cooking the syrup to the gel point, that reduces the likelihood of floating. The reason fruit floats is there's a disparity between the sugar level (weight) of the fruit and the sugar level of the syrup. The fruit needs to be thoroughly infused with syrup. Also, at the end of the preserving and before putting the jam in jars, set a timer for 5-10 minutes and let the fruit rest, stirring occasionally. That tends to redistribute. You can also stir the fruit in the jars before putting on the lids and boiling water bath-ing. All things being equal (and the jam gods cooperating) that should take care of the problem and inversion (which weakens seals) shouldn't be necessary. Oh, if you really want to get more technical, you can use a refractometer and/or jelmeter to check such things as sugar level and pectin. Or you can do a pectin-alcohol test, which was common when traditional preserves were what everyone made. There's information online and in some old cookbooks (like Farm Journal) on that. But there's no substitute for hands-on experience. I also recommend you calibrate your thermometer. It may not be accurate. I think I'll stop there. I'm sure others will have advice to contribute also. If you have other questions, just ask. Happy preserving, Carol

Hello again all, yes thanks pm2 - I guess it is time for an update! After a late spring with much rain and cold in March, we are starting to dry out and get some sun and warmth. The daffodils are right on schedule, with the dogwoods maybe just a few days behind normal. The blooms are still a bit greenish but in a few days the hillsides will be glorious with white. The redbuds have been out for a week or so now, I just planted one in the front yard, even though we are surrounded by them in the woods, I just love them. There are bluebird eggs in the box on the top of the hill and today is in the 70s so all is right with the world! Because we've had such a long cold wet spring it's been hard to get into the gardens, especially with our clay. I dug out cannas I wanted to divide yesterday and they came up with clods of wet clay attached. Still a bit early to do serious digging. The front shade bed however was easier to dig because of all the compost I added last year so I did add some early color that it really needed. 'Chattahoochee' phlox and 'Woodside Gold' columbine went in to replace the anemones I lost last year to insects. The combination of tiny light pink flowers of pulmonaria, the baby blue of the brunnera, blue with a purple eye on the phlox, and pink and purple columbine make a lovely spring show. I had to watch where I dug however because some of the hostas are so slow to emerge and I risk digging into them. I have to remember to plant some bulbs around them so I don't forget where they are. As to the shrub changes, I moved the Itea to the woods garden after I realized it would take over and sucker in this small garden space. I replaced it with a Chamaecyparis Gold Mop which grows very slowly and will provide that gold foliage I'm looking for. The Sarcococca is kind of sitting there, it looks like it got a bit of tip burn, this area gets winter sun so it may not be happy with that. I never did get the flowers in January, unless I missed them. The Calycanthus is forming flower buds, I can't wait to see, and especially smell them. The clethra is still thinking about leafing out, it is alway late to do so. The spirea and the cornus are leafed out and came through fine, the loropetalum suffered some leaf dieback, but I just picked off the brown leaves and it is now leafing out to the tips. I may have lost the flowerbuds but I don't know yet, this is a new plant for me so it might just surprise me yet. I may have to move it if it gets too big which I'm finding out may be the case. I had to remove the large Foster's holly at the corner of the house as it was too close to the foundation and was beginning to heave and crack the brick so I lost some midday shade. I may move the loropetalum there and replace it with a shrub cutleaf japanese maple or maybe just some perennials. The Old Gold juniper is close by and will probably need the room eventually. I didn't know what to expect with the loropetalum as far as hardiness or size so I just plopped it in and am waiting to see. It's a great plant, the leaf color is terrific and if it blooms I'll get a great mass of bright pink. On the other side I had success with a large Kalmia Olympic Fire but a smaller one I planted next to it is not looking great. The Rainbow leucothoe is suffering as well, I did know they are fussy as to conditions so it may get the heave-ho. The pieris are doing fine as are the acuba. I lost all my azaleas to the Easter freeze last year, I had hoped they would bounce back but I'm going to have to dig them out and replace them. I did get rid of a large yew and replaced it with a Viburnum 'Conoy' which made it through the winter in fine shape and is forming flower buds now. It kept about half its foliage over the winter. It should eventually take the place of the yew and the strugging kalmia. I may add another one instead of replacing the three Glacier azaleas I lost and just replacing the Renee Michelle azaleas in front of it. By far my greatest joy has been the hellebores I added around the two Japanese maples. They have doubled in size and have been blooming since February. Last year they kept blooming into the summer and the foliage is evergreen. I can't say enough good things about them. As for the ferns, the lady ferns are up and the male ferns are thinking about it. I'll probably move the lady ferns to the woods garden, they are just so fragile and in late summer get a bit tattered, so not the best choice for a front garden. The male ferns were sturdy and held up well last year, but are a bit uninteresting. I'll probably replace them with Japanese painted ferns this year. I have quite a few in my back garden and they have done very well and provide that purple color I love. They are a bit more spready though where I could use some more height. I snapped a few photos yesterday of my fav plant combos in the shade bed. The dogwood is the crowning glory! Heuchera 'Amethyst Mist' and lysymachia Pulmonaria 'Mrs Moon' and 'Silver Indiana' heuchera Heuchera 'Frosted Violet' and Hellebore 'Royal Heritage' Heucherella 'Stoplight' and Asian ginger Pulmonaria 'Mrs Moon' and lysymachia Unfurling leaves of 'Minuteman' hosta Columbines Edging tapestry Phlox 'Chattahoochie' and Pulmonaria