No worries! ... your plant is just fine! I don't know the exact term for it, but it's simply some roughened callused tissue in which many plants produce, it's not a disease, your plant is 100% healthy!

Terry

Terry, thank you!
None of my other Amaryllis(es?) had this thing. I am still so new to this, you guys are so helpful.
Thanks again!

Alina

Hmmmmm...I had bulbs that had this and I sprayed Orthenex on them once they start leafing out thinking it is a sign of mite infestation. I'll wait for more info from our friends here in the forum. Actually, I have a Piquant right now that has this and I placed the bulb awaaaaaaaaay from the rest of the collection. I am observing it for any twisted growth both on the scapes and leaves which for me is a sure sign of mites.

OK, so it might be a problem after all :-( I did not find any picture of scapes with signs of mite infestation in the Internet.
The worst part - if it is infected, it might be too late to isolate it from other bulbs :(((
Can anyone say for sure what is this?

I lean toward mite damage, myself, but I cannot say for sure. *Something* has damaged the scape and left its mark.

I have had this sort of thing happen to some bulbs and it or similar problems recurred in following years.

The "laddered" nature of the scars, indicates that something damaged the scape as it was growing. As the previous wound traveled upward with the growth, new damaged occurred at the previous level within the bulb.

Since the markings aren't vertical, scraping along the emerging scape seems unlikely.

Inside the bulb, the bud occupies most of the space form just above the basal plate to (eventually) the nose (opening at the top of the bulb). The damage seems to have occurred at the lowest point within the bulb at some point, but might actually recur anywhere form the lowest point to near the opening.

I suppose the final word would come from actually seeing the mites (or whatever the pest is). There may be some type of thrip that enters the bulb and colonizes inside and damages it.

There is lots of discussion here about treating for mites and Hans has posted some pictures (I believe). He has commented on mites and how common they are in the bulb trade, too. several times.

Thanks for the detailed explanation, Raydio.
I found and read old Hans-Werner's posts about mite infestation. No pictures though...
I am sooo frustrated... All cheap bulbs I bought at Walmart and grocery stores were nice healthy bulbs. This one was the first bulb I bought at a local nursery, the most expensive one. It was large and firm, had lots of thick white roots.
According to Hans, there is only one reliable treatment against mites - hot water treatment. Should I do it? And how:
1. Wait till the poor thing will stop blooming or
2. Cut the scapes and do it now?

Systemic chemicals have to be used outdoors. It does not seem to be an option now - we have freezing temperature outside.

Maybe I should separate tiny (1/2") bulblets and discard the mother bulb?

Please advise!
TIA
Alina

There is some discussion of mites and their treatment at GW and on the web, so Google and read all you can about the various chemicals etc. The archives of the Pacific Bulb Society would be a good place to look.

The babies may be infected too if the motherbulb is. And just a note: I cannot be certain that they are infected with mites, though that would be first on my list. Maybe Hans will look at your pix and give his opinion too. So saving the babies might not guarantee that they are pest free.

Veronica read gives details of the Hot Water treatment in her book. It is somewhat involved. It might be more than you want to undertake for just one bulb. That's up to you. If done correctly, there will be no damage to the bulb or future buds. It is done commercially, and they are set up to do that on a large scale. It treats for other pests and diseases as well as mites and is one of the few effective treatments for foliar nematodes.

I was involved in discussing the treatment and mites last year. See link. You may also want to search the site as well for mites etc.

Good luck.

Here is a link that might be useful: Some discussion of the hot water treatment. and mites.

Thanks again Raydio.
I searched the forum before I posted my question. It is still confusing to me, that's why I desided to post pictures.
Unfortunately, I cannot use your link because it is viewable only by paid subscribers of Dave's Garden.
I think I will isolate this bulb and another bulb bought at the same place and hope that my other bulbs are not infected. I also will try HWT when I will find enough info about it.
Most of my bulbs were very cheap, so it is not about money. I just hate to kill living plants because of my ignorance :-(

Sorry about the link being only for subscribers...some are, some aren't.

I would try a good miticide (Bayer makes some good ones and are available at "home improvement" stores. I have been using "Orthenex" as it is a systemic for insects and fungi. I treat several times a season as I grow my plants outdoors where there are all sort of varmints.

Give that bulb every chance to survive whatever it is that is bothering it!

Robert.

I will explore and try every way to save poor things.
Thanks for your help!

Alina...it's never too late to seperate that bulb from your other bulbs. Isolating sick and newly purchased bulbs is a very important rule to follow if one wants to maintain a healthy plant collection. What I do as I've said earlier is isolating it and observing it specially new growth from scape and leaves. Those red markings could be or could have been caused by mites. The bulb could have been treated already by the grower but the damage before the treatment will still be there. If the scape and upcoming leaves performs a twisted growth then I will treat the bulb. Leaves having that "jagged saw-like" red markings on it's sides is a sure sign of mites. Orthenex works great for me. Once the bulb has leafed out (3-5 leaves), I would start spraying it every two weeks. It being a systemic would require leaves to absorb it to be effective. I spray the upper and back part of every leaf and the bulb concentrating on the bulb nose to get into the scales. I will continue doing this until it produces nice clean leaves. Orthenex is also available on spray cans which would take out the trouble of mixing when you only need a small amount. Taking out your bulb outside in the cold for a few minutes to be treated won't hurt it.

Here is a pic of leaves of my Blossom Peacock that was hit by mites last summer when it was outdoors.

After doing the procedure I mentioned above, this is how Blossom Peacock looks now. You can see the lower/older leaves are curled but the upper and newer leaves including the 4 babies are nice and healthy now.

Hope this helps...

Thank you Maria!
I wish I knew that newly purchased bulbs should be kept separately. Unfortunately, when I read about virus/mite infection/infestation it was too late. Well, lesson learned, I will isolate them now and observe them carefully. Thank you for the pictures, it is always so helpful. I saw similar pictures posted by Arif, so I know now what to expect in the worst case.
Glad your Blossom Peacock recovered nicely.

Maria, one OT question. Do you grow any Amaryllis outside all year round? I live in Maryland, not far from you, and I was wondering if they can be grown here with some protection.

Your very welcome Alina. All of my 50 plus amaryllis bulbs are planted in pots. I'm too scared to try to plant them outside in the ground. My soil here is very clayish and has lots of rocks. Ammending it would be too much work for me. I love to make my amaryllis bloom during winter time too that's why I keep them potted. We also have a lot of voles here. Some friends of mine living in a different area have some amaryllis planted like 6 inches below the soil level and mulched (2-3") and theirs come back and bloom spring time. You might want to try it out with some varieties like the Walmart ones. That way if they don't make it, it would be easy to replace.

Thanks Robert and Maria, maybe your prompt and knowledgeable responses saved my bulbs or at least some of them. Who knows...
Alina.

Unfortunately I get aware of that discussion sooo late

Yes, Alina, I confirm that at least the older scape shows typical signs of infection by tarsonemid mite - I am sorry.
It was wise to isolate that plant from the others but it is not an absolutely secure method. So I would not only cure the plant as described ( with Orthenex) BUT ALSO observe the forthcoming of the other plants very accurately every couple of days - and take remedial actions instantly IF any marks appear on the developing leaves.

And Maria, thank you for that drastic photo documentation (it is not amusing to present something which is not "pleasing" that is at least my opinion) and congratulations that you have managed to rescue your plant.

Cordially
Hans-Werner

Hi Alina,
I must sadly agree with Hans-Werner and Maria,that is mite damage.
It would be a good thing to isolate from the others but when spring comes and you can spray them outside do treat all of them. Hippi bulbs are often packed in cases and the different bulbs rub shoulders. All it takes is one bulb in a case to spread the mites to the rest. Lora
(Hans-Werner,it's very good to see you!)

Sorry Alina, I guess I stand corrected! When my bulbs had displayed such red bumps, I thought it was nothing and indeed my plants had grown and flowered normally. Though, come to think, I once had a healthy plump bulb that had refused to break into growth. After carefully examining the base of the bulb, which had failed to put out any roots, I had discovered many little mites scurrying around. I then had done some reading and soaked the bulb in some very warm water, which got rid of the mites and the plant soon broke into growth.
Terry

Your very welcome Hans. Yes it is very UGLY indeed. It is a lot easier to post beautiful flowers and healthy plants. I kept that photo in my file knowing someday, it will be helpful. A lot of amaryllis growers specially new ones don't even know that they have mite infestation in their bulbs. These would lead to non-treatment and eventually killing of the bulb or spreading of the mites.

When spring comes and all the amaryllises can go outside, I had made it a point to regularly spray ALL of them once a month early in the morning or late afternoon. Again this is done once they have leafed out and actively growing. I never spray dormant bulbs.

mariava7,
I am not a real expert on this, but I have experienced the same leaf damage on one of my bulbs which was stored with all the HEALTHY bulbs in my wine cooler, and it accidentally froze down. Its neck was frozen in ice when I removed it from the back and let the ice melt.
Then when I saw that the bulb itself didn't die, I planted it and it started to bring leaves for me, b ut since the top of the scales of the bulb were frozen and kind of dried to very hard layers. So when the first leaves came out they were deformed the same way your leaves.
I dare to say that this kind of leaf damage should not always be considered mites caused.
I am more than sure that mine was not mite infested. All of my bulbs and flowers are healthy and even this one is bringing healthy leaves now that the first ones successfully opened up the hard upper layer of the bulb.
So freezing can cause this effect in bulbs if the bulb itself doesn't die... It is enough if one scale hardens up inside of the bulb and continuously damages the emerging leaves or scapes...
The mite treatment wouldn't hurt the bulb though, so I would do it if I suspected infection.

Hi all,
Thank you for all suggestions you made.
The scape is twice as tall as on the posted picture now. No new scars. I isolated both bulbs from this nursery from my other plants.
Now, can you clarify something for me please?
Hot water treatment is based on maintaining even certain temperature inside a bulb for a time period sufficient for killing mites and other pests. I read one post here about bulbs successfully treated with hot air. In fact, bulbs do not know where the heat comes from. We have hot summers here; the temperature on a sunny spot can easily reach the required 45C. Will it make sense to keep pots outside at this temperature for several hours?
Anyway, I would rather use hot water treatment than harsh chemicals. I think I can arrange this. What do you think?
And one more question:
Can I apply HWT to the bulbs that are not dormant?
I apologize for the long discussion, but it will be definitely useful for many novices...
Thank you,
Alina.

I can't see any reason that would negate air heating the bulbs to 115F (just over 46C, the minimum temperature I have seen advised for HWT). While 115F was one recommended temperature for the treatment, the same source states in the text, that mites are killed at temperatures over 100F.

But isn't there the possibility that some dehydration that might/would occur using heated air? If they were heated in a humid atmosphere, that would seem to counter act any moisture loss. I'm thinking that the relative humidity at treatment time might be something to consider.

I have wondered how hot my bulbs get while in the sun on a 95+F day and think that it must help to thwart any mites that might be there to some degree.

V. Read reports, in her book, that commercially, the Dutch treat bulbs immediately after lifting and drying. She says that the bulbs are more vulnerable to floral damage just after the 10-12 week cool period at 13C(55F). She states that the Dutch treat with temps of 47-48C (117-118F) for 120 minutes. She says that the HWT is more effective when the bulbs are allowed to cool naturally.

In her version of the home treatment, she describes treating growing plants, and doesn't say to wait till the end of the season. (She describes cutting the foliage back to 10cm (4").

After treatment, they are then dried fully and given the "cool period" dormancy at 13C (55F) for 8-10 weeks before replanting.

So depending on when you do this, it could correspond with the Dutch method unless done mid-season or earlier, forcing the dormancy--not necessarily good for the developing buds.

Here is a link that might be useful: Converter for Centrigrade to Fahrenheit.

I thought about dehydration also. There are several ways to avoid it:
Choose a day when humidity is high (easy in our climate).
Use the hot air as a natural thermostat and do the Hot Water Treatment outside at sunny spot.
Wrap bulbs in wet newspaper or something

I think I will treat my bulbs with chemicals if they will have severe symptoms. Otherwise I will try "organic" high temperature methods.
And I am going give a good sun bath to all my bulbs when we will have our typical Maryland's summer day.
Will let you know about results!

P.S.
Robert, the link you gave made me smile. I keep such converter in my head. After 6 years living in America I am still not used to Standard System. I use the formula and convert Fahrenheit to Centigrade every time in my mind.

That wasn't necessarily for you.....just in case others need it for conversions either way, even though I posted both. Glad you got a chuckle and didn't take offense.

I never was that good at math, so I need help to do F to C or C to F.

I didn't know where you live so I was sharing the part about dehydration thinking for all I know, you're in Arizona. The humidity thing isn't a problem here either.

Those are great ways of keeping bulbs hydrated! Thanks for sharing them.

I've always felt that the mites that I had on a bulb were in fact deterred to some degree by being out in part sun in summer here. I think I'll give them all a nice "sun bath" too around July_August as a preventative and curative if any mites are inside. I'll water them first so they won't thirst and to help conduct the heat around the roots and lower portions of the bulb/bulblets.

I will be looking forward to your results.

R.