I do the same as Marie. If I'm starting them indoors I usually use a seed mat for bottom heat but in the summer just start them outside in trays. I always plant my seeds horizontally and just barely cover them with soil. Seeds need to be fresh as they don't remain viable for too long and the germination rate goes way down as they age. With fresh seeds you'll get close to 100% germination. I've had good luck with seeds I've purchased from Thai sellers on eBay. Keep in mind that seeds do not grow true and most often you end up with single pink or pink & white flowers.

Just soak the seeds for a couple of days and peel off the corky outer layer then plant them in some seed starting mix that is well draining. I add perlite. Once they are getting good root systems pot them up a little bigger and just keep doing that until they are about a year old as they get rootbound then you can put them in the ground or in large pots whatever you prefer. They are pretty easy. If you don't remove the outer layer they can get stuck in there.

oh my god.. =: i looked at that HTV thing and skimmed through it.. that's so insane having to use a quilt for your 983791827396lb pumpkin and vacuuming ur cabbage!! pretty much everything i've tried to grow has died. i killed the worm farm i had in the 6th grade, my succulents turned red and fell apart, all my ferns shrivelled up within about a week. i think the only thing that actually grew was a carrot that seeded by accident in the middle of our lawn lol @$%#^?*!! my god.. right now, having a pumpkin grow to 2lb would be a notable achievement. what do you have to do to like first off not kill everything you touch, and then make it grow to a completely insane size? =\!!!!

I did copy, and paste, but their is some stuff other--- freezing thowing help fruit sofen I would say start off with store bought fruit, but not grapes to expensive(1)Prepare the wine making produce by cutting up larger fruit, busting skins on smaller fruit, chopping up fruits such as raisins, and bruising any produce like ginger root, etc.(sodium metabi"sufite)when crushing) Also, any large pits should be removed. It is also important to understand that you can over-process the produce. Food processors, blenders and such should not be used for this purpose. Doing so will cause too much bitterness from the skin and seeds of the produce to be incorporated into the resulting wine.--- you could boil fruit but just to kill germs, boiling long=starch that will cloud it up.I have half wine,and half fluff. (2)Stir together all of the wine making ingredients called for, EXCEPT for the YEAST(If you boiled hold of till cool pectic enzym), into a primary fermenter. Collect any pulp in a fermentation bag and submerge the bag into the wine making mixture(do so it's eayer). Add water to equal the batch to 5 gallons. Then add 5 Campden Tablets. They should be crushed up before adding. Do not add the wine yeast at this point in the process. Adding the wine yeast at the same time you add the Campden Tablets will only result in destroying the yeast.-- not true stuning wild yeast so inaculate yeast can over power(I have a funny story as of yeasterday about boiling wild yeast dead)--- you can also boil the fruit for a short time, or pour boiling water over it 180 degrees will kill the bad bacteria, you can also freeze the fruit breaking down the cells, and the fruit will crush easyer.-- first freeze On the vine is ice wine."WINERIES"let it rot. (3)Cover the fermenter with a thin, clean towel and wait 24 hours. During this waiting period the Campden Tablets are sterilizing the juice with a mild sulfur gas. After 24 hours the gas leaves the container making it then safe to add the wine yeast. (4)Sprinkle the wine making yeast over the surface of the juice and then cover with a thin, clean towel(or lid). Allow this mixture (must) to ferment for 5 to 7 days. You should start to see some foaming activity within 24 hours of adding the yeast. Typically, 70% of the fermentation activity will occur during this 5 to 7 day period(but can be(faster) slower depending on high acidic juice,-but who says you can't make lemonade out of lemon juice(a toping up thing)LOOK At Jackkeller.net for requested recipes even burdock won 3rd). *before syphoning or pouring(in a funnel to bottle=(*secondary** fermentation) add a campden tablet (5)After 5 to 7 days remove the pulp from the fermenter and discard(or save add sugar for second wine--I use 1/2 the original water(but I don't like light wine)). Siphon the wine into a secondary fermenter in a careful manner, so as to leave the sediment behind. You can easily remove the pulp by lifting out the fermentation bag. Wring out any excess juice from the bag. Siphon the wine off the sediment without stirring it up. Get as much liquid as you can, even it some of the sediment comes with it. If necessary, add water back to 5 gallons. (6)Attach a wine making air-lock and fill it approximately half-way with water. Allow the juice to ferment for an additional 4-6 week period or until it becomes completely clear. You may want to verify with your hydrometer that the fermentation has completed before continuing on to step 7. The hydrometer should read between 0.990 and 0.998 on the Specific Gravity scale. Be sure to give the wine plenty of time to clear up before bottling. (7)Once the wine has cleared completely, siphon it off of the sediment again. Stir in 5 Campden Tables that have been crushed and then bottle. When siphoning off the sediment, unlike the first time you siphoned the wine, you want to leave all of the sediment behind, even if you lose a little wine. (8)they usually don't add--after your wine is finished get a stirer after you syphoned off gunk(best to one of those stirers you attach to a drill or a wine saver(a attachment added) to release carbon unless you wouldn't mind a fizzy wine that will mask some of the taste= not a sparkling wine) If you guys do want a online brew shop to check out I found the cheapest I can find from searching time and time again.