I am interested in the following seeds you have: Ipomoea ÂMorning Glory ÂHeavenly blue x Dark Purple mix Clitoria ternatea  Blue Pea Vine Marigold Scarlet Starlet I have a white ROS w rose eye, and a lavender/pink one that has a sort of burgundy or rose eye.Check my list.

My CF bloomed every spring and every fall. Always covered in white fly. wood is very soft and breaks easily so here on the coast, always broken limbs. It is a short-lived, small tree. Maximum height 10-12`. Full sun, easy from seeds or cuttings. Can be cut back to ground as desired. Starts white ends up pink, white, pink and double varieties available. Also prone to mealy bugs and root rot. Hybrids less hardy. NOT salt tolerant! Lost to Ike. Rose of Sharon, much smaller, longer lived, shorter. Easy from cuttings or seeds. In the south prefers more shade, even full shade but will thrive and bloom in full sun if enough water. Full sun in the north, they live in Delaware. More choices in colors, red, pink, white, purple, w/eye, double varieties. Mealy bugs can be a problem. Tally HO!

It would be a lot less bother to replace this one with a seedless cultivar. Regarding the pruning to make it grow a new top you can cut just about as short as you like, any time between winter and the commencement of new foliage growth in spring. If the plant starts to not bounce back well after this routine is initiated then don't do it every year. Otherwise you can instead cut out individual unwanted branches while leaving the rest in place, as suggested previously - or not prune it at all.

i bet.. if done in the right spot.. you can remove a dozen or more hips in one cut.. rather than individually ... you just have to learn the spot.. and have faith when you cut off big gobs.. that it will rebud from below your cut .. and hopefully reflower this season .. pruning rarely kills an otherwise healthy plant ... so have no fear that way ... the trick is.. to encourage more bloom.. sooner .... rather than later.. or next year ... ken