Follow Bill's suggestion. Your soil is not friable. Is that true that you could over fertilize and get all foliage and no tubers? I'm worried b/c my foliage is very tall. Yes - or very few tubers. Depends on what you used and how much and also depends on your soil quality to begin with. If you haven't had your soil tested, it's always a good place to start. You should never apply fertilizer just because you can. You should get informed first. More is not necessarily better. Now, if the plant is getting everything it needs in balance, you can have both tall foliage as well as a high yield of tubers. The best fertilizer you can use is compost created from at least five different sources. It won't sterilize your soil, won't kill beneficial organisms or upset the ecosystem of your soil, it will help your plants with disease resistance, help with moisture retention in the soil, release nutrients at the proper rate, and there are a multitude of other benefits. Most people plant seed potatoes in a trench below soil level, then as they grow, you keep adding more soil until you are hilling them. You can hill so that two to 6 inches of foliage is showing. If you cover suppress parts of the vine from light, those parts will stop producing chlorophyll and root along the vine likely despite having photosynthesized in the first place. If you want to hill, hill often so that only two inches of stem are seen at the top. What results in a higher yield is not so much potatoes along the length of the stem as much as proper growing medium with plenty of water retention as well as with plenty of drainage. Many gardeners hill, but their yield isn't optimum because their growing medium isn't optimum to begin with. If your growing medium is optimum you'll get a higher yield from plants that aren't hilled much vs plants that are hilled to 8 feet in poor growing medium. The 8 feet has been successfully achieved in tires. Hume Seeds grew potatoes in eight stacks of tires, using eight different potato varieties. Each tire stack averaged 11 pounds of potatoes. Some readers reported yields of up to 38 pounds per stack. Here is a link that might be useful: Get your Garden Cooking with Friable Soil

Your plant is falling over because it does not have the proper environment. Indoors, the plant lacks the strong sunlight and wind it would have outside. Your pomegranate is falling over because it is reaching for the sun, it needs more light, so it continues to grow. This growth is lengthy, weak growth because the plant is not conditioned by the wind. Wind makes the plants stronger, similar to humans weight lifting. It's better to prevent weak growth by provided adequate light and a small fan to simulate wind. However, if your plants are already leggy, you could stack the plant, increase lighting/ Air circulation. It's important to remember, you need adequate lighting/air, you could stake that plant everyday and it'll still grow tall and weak without proper sun and air circulation.

1) Can you confirm this is a lawn fungus? Pattern has been, grass gets a dry area and then develops the yellow color of doom. Mostly this happened in a handful of places the irrigation doesn't cover too well. I'm not an expert at disease in northern lawns, but if I had those spots in my St Augustine I would declare it a disease. 1) What is the best path forward from here? Just hope and wait the fungicide works? Am I watering too much/too little? Can I over fungicide? Can I go get immunox and double down or will that kill the grass? You can absolutely overuse fungicide. As far as I'm concerned you already have. To my belief using a fungicide is like poisoning your soil, so I stay away from it. Why? Because most of the beneficial microbes in your soil are fungi. Best path depends on the watering issue. Are you watering too much or too little? You'd have to tell us how much you're watering to help us with an answer to that. How often do you water and for how long? If you are still watering multiple times per day, as if this were just installed, then you're watering too much. That would be my suspicion. Transitioning from new install watering to mature turf watering can be tricky. At this point if you are watering more than once every 10 days to 2 weeks then I'd be suspicious of too much water. Put some cat food or tuna cans in the yard and turn on the sprinklers. Time how long it takes to fill them. That's how long you should be watering. 2) Is the yellow grass a goner? At this point in time I'm planning on having to resod a handful of places come September, but if it'll come back on it's own I'd be very happy. Agree. Adjust your watering for now and resod selected spots at your leisure. Boston area is a forgiving climate for new grass, unless you got bad advice on watering the new grass.

It is a huge design fail to mix irrigation types for the same zone. If your rotors/sprays have output adjustment (ie change nozzles, spray heads) you can mitigate the effects, but it's still a bad idea.