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Alpines & Rock Gardens

dry sand rock garden with 6' sand?

16 years ago

I read a rock garden book about dry sand rock garden. It says put at least 6" sand on the garden. It prevents weeds better too. However, I just don't understand how the plants especially little seedlings can survive within just the sand. They cannot get any nutrients from the sand. Even if there is nutrients from good soil mix underneath the sand, the little plants' roots cannot reach to the bottom yet. How does it really work, or how may I make it work. I do want to try dry sand bed, if it really prevent weeds better. Thanks

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Comments (4)

vetivert8
16 years ago
Some species such as Ulex and Cytisus have large seeds with food reserves enough to last until the roots get down into the cooler layers.

Sand tends to hold moisture, and, if it is 'unwashed', from a river or quarry, will also have traces of silt in it.

Many plants produce wide root nets when grown in sand, or gravel, which gives them the ability to collect water and food over a large area.

Provided you don't have plants hurling seeds onto your sand, and you have, perhaps, removed the seed bank resting in the topsoil of your proposed garden area then you may be able to cut back on your weeding load. (Please notice all the hedgings and provisos I've put in!!!)
leftwood
16 years ago
Of course, only those plants adapted to such an environment will prosper. Although not all alpine plants will grow in "pure" sand, remember that nearly all prefer the lean conditions that a comparative lack of nutrients provide, and of course, perfect drainage. And at the same time, alpines naturally grow slowly and are quite small by normal standards too.

Does the book give a list of suggested plants for the sand bed? I'll bet it includes a bunch of penstemon species. Grow most of them in good soil and all they do is flop around on the ground.
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I'm not sure what zone you are in, so it's kinda hard to answer this question. I do know that the new book does a 1:1:1 ratio of vermiculite, peat moss, and compost which is about what you would have if you didn't add the sand. I really doubt the sand is going to cause too much of a problem, but if you are really concerned I guess you could try adding some more compost to the bin, or even more peat moss or vermiculite to help with the water retention. However, remember that people have been gardening for thousands of years in the soil that they happen to have, and have had success, so I really wouldn't worry about it.
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lakedallasmary- with all due respect, you don't need to do your own controlled tests, because universities do these all the time on a large scale. Professional plant scientists with academic credentials uniformly agree that adding such exotic soil amendments as "lava sand" may make the gardener feel better because she is "doing something," but there is no positive effect to be gained. If you feel your soil lacks "trace minerals," adding good quality loam is the best route to go. Adding decaying plant matter, such as leaf mould, will certainly enrich your soil and make it more friable. Depending on the results of a soil analysis, fertilizing as needed with either a slow-release 20-0-0 or 20-5-10 should give your plants or turf a boost from time to time. There are gardeners who scoff at the idea that professionally trained experts give the best available advice, and prefer to take the advice of Grandma or some "self-taught" radio show host. That is certainly their privilege and none of my business. However, if any of these people are unfortunate enough to contract cancer or diabetes or tuberculosis or another serious disease, they are likely to seek treatment from a professional physician rather than go on what a neighbor tells them or what they hear from just anybody on the radio. We listen to experts when it comes to many things. Would that it be so with gardeners.
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This Geologist Jerry and I ran an analytical lab for years. My specialty is sand and I've seen this issue numerous time before. Assuming you had a good quality sand (think nice beach or sand dune sand - not the crushed dirt 'play sand' sold at home improvement stores) then the thing to remember is the grains themselves can't absorb water so all you have to do is dry it out. As the first comment said, spread it out though I prefer a cotton sheet to a tarp (because the cotton will wick the moisture away fater than a plastic tarp). That means all you have to do is dry it out using a combination of the Sun and maybe a small fan to help speed the drying. And here is the key: the UV rays of the Sun are a proven sanitizer regardless of how 'strong' the Sun is. It might take 1-3 days to dry out the sand but the UV rays will kill 99.9% of everything you might have in your 'swamp'. Hope this helps!
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jasonkola
16 years ago
I have read a little on rock gardens. but I would think the plants are planted in the soil under the sand and grow up through the sand. although I may be wrong. I would think planting pregrown plants shrubs or trees in the soil under the sand would work for some plants.
sagebrushred
16 years ago
My understanding of sand beds it that they are an environmental modification to allow people in areas with higher rainfall and humidity to grow plants from regions with more arid climates. I believe that you are even supposed to lay down a barrier between the sand layer and the native soil base to prevent worms and ants from introducing the soil to the sand. Soil plus moisture/heat and humidity = bacterial and fungal growth that can be deadly to many plants that need a more lean and dry growing medium.

As Leftwood suggests penstemon would be a fine choice of plant for this type of garden as would various cactus and other plants that hail from desert regions around the world.

I also don't know about sand being any more or less of a weed barrier. Here the weeds will grow just as readily in the sand as the native soil. Guess that's one of the draw backs to living in a desert.

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