Before using Photinia fraseri, check to see that it does not suffer from fungal disease problems there. I'm still laboring--some--under the belief that clipped photinia suffers much more from this condition, while the tree form Photinia (where the top is allowed to grow uncut) is able to flourish. Miscanthus giganteus seems like it could be interesting, but also seems like it has the potential to overwhelm, if not watched. Many deciduous shrubs could be grown as trees. If pollarded annually, they would form dense branch clusters, so would screen during the winter. I would consider those as a possibility, too.

How fast they grow depends upon the fertility, the amount of moisture and the environment in general. I have seen them grow 6-8" inches per year. They may be slow, but they are worth the wait. I cannot say enough good things about the new hybrids like green mountain and green velvet. I even have an older Varder Valley that is supposed to be dwarf but is probably 6-8' across and about 5 feet tall.

My previous home was backed up by the high school parking lot, not very pretty and much activity. With only a 6 foot fence allowed for separation, I planted a row of Ligustrums grown a tree to branch out at the fence top. They grew fast and made a dense screen. My problem with them was the amount of mess they made with droppings on the paved area and the roots were massive and close to the surface, that prevented even the most aggressive plants from growing under them on my side of the fence. Here I have planted Rhus integrifolia as a screen with much better results. They require no care or water at all, make little mess, and I can grow pretty much what I want under them. They grow very fast, are native, require very little width, and easily reach 20 feet, with only an occasional lateral branch requiring removal. Al

If speed is of the essence I would consider installing a chain trellis (my latest name for it) which is like a privacy fence, but is not a fence. It requires the installation of 10' posts every 8' or so. (2 1/2' buried in the ground.) For a 100' run that would be 13 posts. (If you've ever installed one post in concrete, you know how easy of a job it is.) Finials or decorative cuts of some sort at the top of the posts -- and painting -- make them look attractive. A pair of stout hooks are installed at the top of each post from which sturdy (like porch swing) chain is run connecting post to post, in swag fashion. From the chain, twine is dropped at 1' intervals and attached to short wood stakes driven into the ground. All of this is a support for vines to grow on. A solid screen can be achieved in 6 to eight weeks with annual vines such as morning glory or moonflower. Simultaneously, perennial vines (which start and grow slower) are installed. Within a reasonable period, they "take off" and provide permanent cover. In some cases it is an advantage to have vines over a hedge if a tidy appearance is desired; the vines only grow where support is provided and tend to look as if a clipped hedge. It could be a disadvantage if height greater than 7' is wanted since the support will never become taller than it was originally. One feature of this structure that I enjoy is that during a windy period, continuous waves form in the foliage and add a mesmerizing element of movement. In the picture, you are looking at first year annual vines (moonflower) ... picture taken about 8 weeks after planting seed. If none of that works for you, consider a hedge of tea olive (for great smell) or Camellia (for great looks). (Verify that they will grow well where you are.) Either one could be clipped. They may not be the FASTEST growing shrubs, but I would consider them fast enough. As well I would counsel to develop some patience about it. The need for speed frequently means sacrificing quality over the long term.