After all the responses, I am leaning toward transplanting (for more sun) in the fall. I understand transplanting now is a possibility but am concerned about the stress the plant may experience during the summer. brandon7: I used the rootball guide you kindly provided and calculated the diameter and depth of the rootball I will need to dig when transplanting. I'd appreciate it if you would look over my figures to see if my interpretation is correct. (Both crape myrtles have three trunks coming out of the ground close together. I calculated the diameter with C = d x pi) 1. 'Tonto': The diameter of the three trunks are .68", .6" and .52", respectively. These add to a 'total trunk diameter' (that's what I'll call it for these purposes) of 1.8". Based on the guide, I'll need to dig a rootball whose diameter is 25" and depth is about 12". 2. 'Catawba': Trunk diameters are .83", .83" and .64", respectively, resulting in a 'total trunk diameter' of 2.3". According to the guide, I should dig a rootball with a 32" diameter and a depth of approximately 14". Are these figures in the ballpark? Thanks

Impossible to tell what you have, for sure, but I agree that the color of yours (at least as it shows up on here) is at the far edge of what one would expect for 'Centennial Spirit'. The color of 'Centennial Spirit' may be best described as neon red (as opposed to dark red) in most instances. I wouldn't be surprised if your crape was 'Centennial Spirit', but, like you, I would wonder. The colors of crape myrtles vary more than is often recognized by some sources. Weather, moisture conditions, etc can make a big difference.

THere are several factors that contribute to powdery mildew. Powedery mildew likes DRY leaves and high humidity. Dry leaves on crape myrtle, considering you bought them from Lowes, probably means they weren't watered the way they should have been. Lowes doesn't really care that much about regular watering of their trees, you have to take that into consideration. Just make sure that since you just planted it this year, it will get regular waterings. You have to treat a newly planted tree a little differently than an established tree the first couple of years. Also, this winter, look at the trees framework carefully. Pick the number of main branches you want the tree to have, either 3 or mabey 5? Use a pruner and cut the tree framework to look like that. CHeck for branches that are growing into one another. They will mature next year and rub, which is what you don't want. Cut the branches that you see growing into other branches off at the branch, or stem, or trunk, leaving about 1/2 inch to an inch before the trunk. Do this every fall when all the leaves fall off, you can see the framework easier without the leaves. It also helps circulate more air through the tree, which will really help with the powedery mildew. Regular watering, proper pruning for at least the first 3 to 4 years, (your shaping the tree too), and you should notice a big difference in the tree. When your tree is established, you will not have to water it unless it is really hot and you havent had any considerable rain in the past couple of weeks. But it will take a couple years to become established. Good luck with it. My crape myrtle from Lowes that I bought only 6 years ago is 30 feet tall, and I still check it every fall for branches that are growing into other branches, for the health of the tree.

Tonto is a semi-dwarf as well and is usually given as a 6-12 foot height. Very mildew resistant and red in color (more toward hot pink then red IMHO). The best way to buy for color is to see it in bloom first at least if this is really important. This is not the best time to plant but because mislabeling happens too often in crapes it is still best to buy in bloom (IMHO). Over the last ten years I have seen between 10-20 of the crapes going thru in a given year be mislabelled sad but true and even tho I know a lot of crape varieties by color and growth habit I still can't guarantee 100% without at least seeing blooms to match variety claimed on label and even then if they are growing 10 red varieties from dwarf to tree types it is even more difficult as a nurseryman to insure you are getting the right cultivar. This is a sad but true aspect of this business and with low wage factory farming catering to the big box mentality I don't see it improving any time soon. Much of the help potting up these plants can't read english, so how can they know, even if they do care what varieties they are potting up. Just a little insight to the grower and nursery end of the crape id problems that occur. Happy Growing David