You can do that, but the plant will continue to push weak & leggy growth all winter, which will leave it low on energy reserves in the spring and probably slow to recover. I would put it in the basement & let it dry down after pruning it back hard. In the spring, I would saw the bottom half of the roots off and bare-root the plant before repotting into a free-draining and durable soil. Your plant will appreciate your efforts in its behalf. Tip: For hibiscus, always use a fertilizer with the first and last numbers larger than the middle - never use a 'bloom-booster' type fertilizer. Al

First, there is no way the pot will survive outside with the rose in it. The pot will have to be emptied and turned upside down, or brought inside. Second, you train New Dawn in much the way you train cats. The two of you come to a more or less mutually acceptable pattern of behavior. Maybe. Training it up a tree sounds like something that is going to work about as well as keeping my cats out of the goat cheese. It's just not in the nature of the beast. You need somewhere it can spread out. It does best on walls or very large trellises. It might survive the winter in a pot somewhere like a window well or behind a pile of straw bales. It sounds like you are in an urban heat island, so it may be generally warmer than you think. IME, the canes start having trouble around -15, so it isn't a zone 4 climber. However, it is crown hardy much colder than that.

I guess it still come down to how much you value it and how much effort are you willing to give to your orchid tree? I keep hoping someone will chime in and say it comes back from a Austin winter. I have heard of them surviving a San Antonio with a protected position. As to more harm to replant it, welllll I know I wouldn't like it butttt it may not survive (but maybe it will?)if left in the ground. I can't say much about quick start or in general most miracle gro products ( I am biased against them personally) and use rocket fuel, alfalfa pellets and seaweed to kickstart my transplants. Too much phosphorus the main material in quick start and most "root stimulators" are probably best in acid soil conditions not the alkaline soil condition we have west of I-35. I am not saying it can't help it is just not what I would use or could personally reccomend. If I were to repot it I would consider a couple of things. 1. Am I going to keep it in a pot long term (over 1 year)? 2. If so I would amend any potting mix definely if I used mircle gro. ( I use the broke bags at the garden center but add more perlite, soil conditioner (fine shredded pine bark), coconut coir and of course alfalfa pellets and then more osmocote 18-6-12 and medina micronutrients to it. Then dust the rootball and the bottom and sides within the pot with rocket fuel. Then I water the transplant with a weak solution (1 tsp per gal.) of seaweed to finish the process. 3. I am just saying what I use not that this is what everyone should use because it has worked so well for me but just so you know that I have a different approach to the whole transplanting process than many and one that evolved for me over several years of experimenting and observing the results and this is what I found work best overall for me. 4. The key to long term pot success IMHO is to have a majority of the media to be an inert product or at least something that doesn't breakdown too fast. Keeping a good air exchange in the pot profile is of utmost importance. Again this is not the only way but science and practical experience shows me and many others I have worked with and shared gardening containered culture ideas with that this has the best chance of long term health for most any plant (except bog or water plants). If you want to discuss it more let me know what you have questions on and I will offer whatever help I can. Good Luck and Happy Growing David

If your plants have been severely cut back, I'd consider keeping them semidormant near a window, watering only when the soil has mostly dried out, and keeping them sprayed with horticultural soap/lightweight horticultural oil on a regular basis to keep mites and whiteflies at bay. The cool basement/sunporch would be ideal for overwintering dormant Brugmansias except such conditions are hard for most of us to come by. My routine (probably to be undertaken next weekend) is to strip all the leaves off my large plants and lug the pots down into a dark corner of the basement to overwinter at about 65 degrees, withholding water and continuing to strip off any new leaves/blooms until the plant goes dormant. Then they get infrequent waterings with cool/cold water (just enough to keep stems from shriveling) until it's time to set them out again in spring. This generally works well and there are few if any casualties (previous attempts to overwinter them in the unheated garage or crawl space where it got down near freezing failed - just too cold). I don't bother trying to grow any but the smallest plants under lights - they're bug magnets and large plants are too difficult to get adequate spray coverage on.