Agreed! Josh and mike have both been called lucky because their plants flourish, but they're not lucky at all, and I can understand why they might take offense at the label. There may be elements of luck that affect their growing, but calling them lucky is little different than calling Lance Armstrong lucky every time he wins a race. These guys are simply well-skilled. Luck pretty much only has a place of any importance in the growing experience of the beginners or those less skilled. I'm not talking about hailstorms or plants being blown off railings, or hordes of descending insects - I'm talking about having the ability to consistently produce high quality plants in spite of imperfect cultural conditions. There is no luck involved in that ability. This is just my opinion, but I don't put a lot of value on experience in many cases, either. A wood chopper, having wielded an axe for years and claims title to being a star axeman, pales in his ability to produce cord-wood at a pace equal to that of even a novice chainsaw operator. Those who practice the same methods day in and day out, even if they are at the pinnacle of perfection for those methods, are, w/o considering there might be a better way, gaining nothing by adding more years to the total of their experience. IOW - they're parked - stuck in a rut. Guys like Josh and Mike, and lots of others here, are focusing on knowledge. They don't cling tightly to this idea or that idea. If something makes better sense - they try it. They are open-minded and willing to make adjustments. They actually think the same way that I do, in that acquiring knowledge about growing is more important than actual experience ..... but hold on before you disagree ..... they also understand that using their practical experience - practical application, to validate that knowledge is what has propelled them forward. They learn the facts, then let their experience prove them true. If their observations don't match what they've learned, they mistrust and reexamine their observations instead of inventing new science to fit what they think they observed. THAT, is what makes a grower good in the shortest amount of time possible. How many growers with much more 'experience' than Mike or Josh have they passed sitting in a rut at the side of the road and shouting at them that they'll never make it to the top of the hill because they're 'doing it all wrong'? Where they came from is where a lot of others still sit. We can look up to them or look away from them, but they're still pretty darned close to the top, and I'd put considerable value on what they say. I only mentioned Mike & Josh because Jodi and JJ did in their posts previous, but there are a lot of others here that are free from being chained to the same spot and also deserve a lot of credit. Way to go, guys! Al

Well, I did not mean to imply there is not much else to do. Indeed pray for a normal winter (!!!). But as stated, others in colder zones than mine have to take some additional measures. As a matter of fact, some people in your zone and colder ones take additional preparations. Once the plants go dormant in the fall, some people place a cardboard on top of the hydrangea stems and press downwards until the cardboard in somewhat level with the ground. As ong as you press down gently, this does not do harm to the stems, which recover very quickly when you remove all the stuff in spring. To hold the cardboard in place, people add the weight of some rocks. Then they top it off with dried leaves. At least one foot of dried leaves from their garden (and/or their neighbors). Others add some chicken wire around the plant. Six inches to a foot past the drip line. Then they fill it in with a lot of leaves. No stems beding with this technique. But the idea is, again, to protect the stems holding the flower buds from the worst of winter temperatures and winds with the leaves. Your plants seem to be holding up well without these additional measures and that is good. But mother nature can sometimes surprise and catch us off guard. The result could be no blooms. That happened to me last winter. In Texas, we are not supposed to have to take additional measures. But this last winter, the temperatures were warm until we had a nasty cold spell and the temps stayed low for a little while. This killed all but a handfull of blooms. Now I am not saying go ahead and do all that. Just keep your eyes open when forecasts of the next winter temps & precipitation come and see if you think your plants may require some help this winter. Otherwise, stay the course. Hydrangeas that bloom on old wood are the ones which require a lot of care during winter. Those which bloom on new wood are not affected much and can receive less winter care... within reason. Have a good winter season and an even better 2008 hydrangea season, emmgus. Luis

You don't say where you live or what zone you are in. I'm not a rose expert, but I know several people like to mulch them deeply ever winter. The rose forum could advise you. I'm assuming you mean hardy hibiscus, like hibiscus moscheutos. The beautiful, tropical hibiscus is not hardy, no matter how much you mulch. I mulch in the spring to keep the weeds down, about 2 inches deep. I really don't give anything extra mulch to hold it over the winter, unless it was just planted in the fall. If it's hardy to your zone, it shouldn't need protection. Keeping them well watered in the fall is the most important. Given our rainy falls, that is usually not a problem.

The beauty and relaxation that your garden can provide you and your family is certainly worth all the work you put in each year. Putting in a little extra work at the end of the season, however, can make getting your garden ready next spring easier and can help keep your plants healthy through the winter months. Here are a few great tips that will get your garden ready to handle the cold and snow. Clean Up: Though not a favorite task of any gardener, it is a very necessary step to getting your garden ready for winter. Remove your annuals, empty and store any pots and containers, and give your garden one last mow. Also, raking up all those leaves is one chore all homeowners are familiar with each autumn, but they do make great mulch for your perennials and vegetable garden, and are also a great addition to your compost. Plant Or Relocate Trees And Shrubs: The fall is the best time to get new trees into the ground, or move those you have earmarked to be relocated. The best strategy is to choose trees that are hardy for your zone, as it makes their survival more likely and maintenance easier. Also, choosing evergreens and shrubs that produce berries in the winter months can make your garden more interesting and provide activity for birds and other wildlife. Protect Your Trees: For new or young trees this is an important step you'll not want to forget in winterizing your garden. Covering trees and shrubs with burlap is most important in areas that have exposure to northwest winds and high sun. Be sure, however, not to do this too early in the season, in order to prevent rot. It is also a good idea to give your evergreens plenty of water to prevent burnout. Test Soil And Mulch: After the ground freezes be sure to add mulch to your perennial garden. This will protect both your soil and plants through the long winter months, as well as provide much needed nutrients for spring. This is also a good time to test the pH of your soil to see if it is lacking any essential minerals for the next growing season. Plant Spring Bulbs: This is also the time of year to get your spring bulbs into the ground. Be sure that you do this before the first frost, and give them plenty of water when planting them. Unlike all the work you put into your garden in spring, winter clean-up can seem like a difficult and unrewarding task, but with this effort you will keep your garden in tip-top shape for the growing season ahead! Visit my website at www.valeriemcconville.com