Soil pH has a strong affect on a plants ability to uptake and utilize the nutrients they need to grow strong and healthy. Most all nutrients are most available of the soil pH is in the 6.0 to 7.0 range. Plants also need nutrients in balance because too little of one causes a plant to not be able to utilize others and too much can interfere with the plants ability to utilize others. For example too much, or too little, Phosphorus can inhibit a plants ability to use Zinc, Iron, Cobalt, etc. and an imbalance of Potash can interfere with a plants ability to use Nitrogen. Calcium and Magnesium need to be in balance or plants cannot properly utilize either.
I am surprised you found Washington State University does not do soil testing since every thing I can find says they still do.

Bear_ With_ Me, I am thinking that a boron deficiency might inhibit calcium usage. If your soil is highly deficient in boron, I would sprinkle a small amount of borax on the soil...just don't overdo it.

Good to hear that. IMO everyone and their mother should have their garden soil tested. Good things will always come to those who test their soil.

You had some yellowing leaves and a soil test that calls for added Nitrogen and you don't suspect Nitrogen deficiency?

Yes I will be adding nitrogen source too.

This post was edited by Bear_With_Me on Sat, Dec 28, 13 at 12:47

Oh - I searched again on whether WA State provides soil testing. I still could not find a site that says they do, and this gardenweb discussion reports that they done.

ceth_k - nice to have that validation. I've gardened all my life, and this is the first time I've tested the soil. I hope the result means sturdier healther sooner better. It's interesting to learn either way. I have a lot to learn.

Wayne_5 - the soil test info said something like 4 oz Borax per 1,000 square foot. I could weigh out the right amount for the watering can and spread it that way. It just seems like such a tiny amount, and the soil test actually states it's in medium range already. I don't know why they recommended adding some.

Here is a link that might be useful: Garden Web Soil Testing Discussion for Seattle Area

I'd assume that the interpretation of the availability of those nutrients are based on neutral soil acidity(pH 7).

For example the iron which is 65.8 ppm, according to the chart is very high in concentration. It is important to remember that the availability of iron sharply decrease as the soil pH increase. After correcting your soil pH using lime the availability of iron in that soil will not be as high as you might think. Same goes to all the listed nutrients in the chart. The calcium which listed as "Medium", after soil pH is raised with lime, will be very high in availability that you should not worry about it at all.

You are all set, I think. And good thing is that uf you apply lime now, there will be sufficient time till next growth season (May ) for it to act and raise the pH.

It is often the case with the established garden soils to have more than needed "P" and "K". What happens is that gardeners keep adding things like 10-10-10 or similar fertilizers. Nitrogen is used in higher proportion AND because of being readily water soluble it leaches down. On the other hand, "K" is more durable than nitrogen and the unused portion stays around a while. Phosphorus is bonds to the soil and will stick around for a long time. Some soils are naturally rich in Phosphorus too.
The other major element are calcium and magnesium. Most fertilizer provide those too. Since your soil is acid, then adding lime (dolomite) should work like a double edged sword.

Recommending 2 pounds of Nitrogen per 1,000 square feet is a standard most every soil test I have seen in the past 25 years has had. I would not be concerned about trying to get the level of Boron up since it is already in the medium range and just a bit too much Boron is fatal to many plants.
I would be concerned about why that soil testing lab recommends Dolomitic Lime when the level of soil Magnesium is already high.
I found information related to soil testing on the Washington State University Cooperative Extension Service website under "gardening" then "general gardening information" and "soil fertility".

Here is a link that might be useful: WSU CES

seysonn, that's a good point about prior fertilizing having an effect on soil elements. I just bought this property 18 months ago. I wonder what previous owners did. no way to know, this was a bank sale and contact with prior owners was not allowed. Also they only had the place a couple of years, so before them who knows? I read that people use too much phosphorus and there can be buildup in soil.

Last year i used miracle gro for tomatoes in my new raised beds, especially for tomatoes and peppers, all the while wondering if i was doing the right thing. The raised beds are roughly 2/3 soil from my 2 acre yard, and 1/3 leaf compost from the local recycler. Now i think I was not doing the right thing, because of this soil analysis. Tomatoes and peppers were slow to get started, but ultimately gave us plenty. Okra never took off - I know this is a cold climate, but i was hoping for more than we got. Zucchinis and butternut squash did OK but not as productive as I hoped

So this year i have some science to guide me. Glad I got the test done. I hope my implementation of the results is productive!

Those results are from the soil source for the raised beds, so do not reflect what i did. Next year I should test the beds and see if my results got the soil closer to optimum.