pH question: charcoal as soil amendment
fabaceae_native
11 years ago
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Kimmsr
11 years agoTheMasterGardener1
11 years agoRelated Discussions
lowering my soil pH organically, will citrus work?
Comments (20)I'm posting on this OLD post because it still comes up at the top of google search for "citrus peels lower soil ph" ... I have been doing tests with Citrus Peels.... I have found that about 30 good size grapefruit peels blended up in a blender (lots of batches of blending) with half water/half citrus in the end, produces a good acid base. I did enough to fill 30% of a 5 gallon bucket, which I then diluted to a full 5 gallons of liquid. This was then diluted 5 fold to register a drop in pH of 1 for the water... This diluted citric acid can be used similarly to sulfuric acid dilute. There is a company here that sells Moon Juice which is a combination of sulfuric acid + iron and other trace minerals... It's used for temporarily lowering the ph so trees and shrubs and such can uptake iron and other minerals that lock out at alkaline pH Levels... Given that we're in the southwest we have an ABUNDAND supply of citrus and over time, this is the same effect the trees fruit would give to the soil if there were no humans to tend to and pick the fruit... the fruit would rot on the ground, the citric acid would leach out into the ground as it decomposes and maintain a more acidic soil balance for the trees long term support... So can you use citric acid to dilute, yes you can, though, just like with a sulfuric acid dilute, you're going to need to apply it regularly (monthly or so depending on ph plant/etc) until the bacteria that feed on the sulfur have had enough time to lower the soils actual ph levels ... Something that seems to be long forgotten as I read some of these posts is... all living things have a pH, you can burn things by dropping ph too fast, or by raising too fast, so obviously some of the responses regarding putting acid next to the roots are appropriate, they are also inappropriate because your obviously not going to dump straight acid on anything unless your intention is to utilize the full strength of the acid :P Good Luck! Would love to hear about what you've done and how it's developed since your original questions!...See MoreCheapest way to test soil pH using red cabbage
Comments (42)I don't put any sulfur in the holes of the roses pictured. The other holes with sulfur didn't bloom well. My heavy clay is very retentive, there is no leaching here. Here's a quote from Nutrient Stewardship site: "Phosphorus is the nutrient most affected by pH. ..Nitrogen, Potassium, and sulfur are less affected. At alkaline pH values, greater than pH 7.5, phosphate ions tend to react quickly with calcium (Ca) and magnesium (Mg) to form less soluble compounds. At acidic pH values, phosphate ions react with aluminum (Al) and iron (Fe) to again form less soluble compounds." It's good to test if one's tap water is alkaline, some cities add lime to water so pipes won't corrode. Calcium in lime will bind with phosphorus, and less is available. In my 12 years of growing flowers in pots, the year that I got continuous MOST blooms despite my pH 8 water was when I used high phosphorus SOLUBLE fertilizer, and low nitrogen. Granular phosphorus like bone meal and 46% superphosphate are useless in the planting hole here in alkaline clay. My results confirmed what University of Colorado stated "bone meal and rock phosphate can only be utilized at or below pH 7". My pH 7.7 soil was tested most deficient in phosphorus. Here's a quote from David Neal, CEO of Dyna-Grow Plant Nutrition in CA: "There is some evidence to believe that low N helps to convince a plant to stop its vegetative growth and move into its reproductive phase (flowering), but environmental factors are probably more important. P is typically 5th or 6th in order of importance of the six macronutrients. There is little scientific justification for higher P formulas, but marketing does come into play ...." He's right, just a tiny bit of SOLUBLE phosphorus made more blooms and more roots - but beyond that is wasteful. The site, Robert Morris NOBLE plant foundation, rated the mobility of NPK: "Let's compare the mobility of NPK on a scale of 1 to 10. Nitrogen is a 10 ... extremely mobile and can be lost to leaching. Potassium is a 3. It has limited movement in the soil. Phosphorus has a rating of 1. It is immobile in the soil and is likely to stay wherever it is placed." Here is a link that might be useful: Soil pH and availability of plant nutrients...See MorePlanting Different Fruit trees--worried about Soil pH
Comments (6)What about our hard water? I've read some other posts where people hand-water their plants with vinegar-spiked water. I was kind of thinking of taking some fat (wide) 15 gallon tubs, cutting out the bottoms, and using those to plant the blueberries inground. That way, they would be somewhat isolated and I could treat their soil more locally (iron sulfate, elemental surful, peat, and some of the other amendments that people have mentioned in other posts). Maybe it would be easier to keep their immediate environment more acidic if I was treating a smaller area? How does that sound? Do you think doing that buys me anything? I don't know what I could do about watering though... seems the hard water would be fighting my attempts with the soil......See MoreSoil pH amendment question
Comments (1)Hello, tinamcg. I do not try to change hydrangea color but this is my understanding of the process. Before adding aluminum sulfate, I would make a soil test. A soil test is necessary to tell you if you already have "enough" naturally occuring aluminum in the soil. If you do not then apply aluminum sulfate to increase aluminum levels and lower the Ph. Aluminum sulfate should work fast since its application causes a chemical reaction. Once you measure "normal" levels of aluminum in the soil or if you already had "normal" levels of aluminum in your soil, you may want to apply elemental sulphur (a.k.a. flowers of sulphur) in order to further tweak the PH Level. Contrary to aluminum sulfate, Elemental Sulphur takes several weeks to acidify the soil because it first has to be oxidized by bacteria (here you have a biological reaction, not a chemical reaction). I would add chemicals monthly but only thru the growing season in Spring and quit when summer starts. Not particular reason for that though. I do not want to introduce 'problems' with the addition of chemicals at a time when the plants experience high temperatures, lack of humidity and drying winds. Regarding your desire to control the color to lilac or blue, be aware that color change is a project that takes several years and requires lots of applications and soil tests (to see how things are progressing). Also, it is very difficult to the intensity of a color (how strong or pale the color is) so you may need to experiment with other varieties if ES just does not want to attain the type of color that you want. Luis...See MoreKimmsr
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