Well, I don't have much info to offer so far, but within a few years I should have lots of data. Background: I live in Vancouver, WA, have south facing yard and a whole bunch of pavement around which I can plant things that will get pretty hot. Results so far: Purple Magics I got at Al's Garden Center last year have flower buds developing. I started to see the first ones probably around late July. I thought wow I will get flowers soon but it appears they take a long time to develop. It is mid August now. I feel optimistic that at least some of these will bloom before the cold season sets in. These were so cheap I scattered 9 of them throughout the yard and I figure that the ones that developed flower buds sooner are probably the better locations. (I am convinced HOT is the key. However, you do have to be careful with the leaves of ones you planted this season wilting, even if you water them well. My Cherry Dazzle appears to not be blooming, even though it is in the hottest spot in my yard. However, it lost most of its leaves last summer so it may be concentrating on building up its strength this summer rather than flowering. My Catawbas and Tuscaroras are not showing a lot of leaf growth and no flower buds. But I think they may be just strengthening themselves and may do much better next season. I bought a TON of dwarf CMs from Evergreenplantnursery. They are only about $6-12 each , although a few dollars more when you factor shipping in. I got about 5 each of Midnight Magic, Moonlight Magic, Purple Magic, and Cherry Dazzle. Also got a couple Tontos (one from Evergreen, one from Al's, and a couple of Pink Velours at Al's.) These are shorter varieties and I live in a place where the people above me have nice views so it is uncool to plant tall trees. My strategy on these is: I planted these in large containers. I will put them in the garage in the dormant season where hopefully they won't see temperatures below 25F or so. Then I will take them outside during the growing season. After about 3 years hopefully they will have trunks and branches that are big enough to withstand the winter cold waves (down to around 10F in this area) without too much dieback. The Midnight Magics from Soonerplantfarm I planted died all the way to the ground, but they have generated lots of growth this summer. My dilemma now is whether to transplant them into pots to put in the garage in the winter, or see how they do if I keep them outside. They might just die back every winter and regrow each summer, which would make them perennials. But they have only grown leaves, not flower buds, so if I want them to flower I may need to grow them inside for a few winters to get them bigger before planting them outside for good. Not much data yet but I have about 25 crape myrtles in pots and about 20 in the yard so I should get a lot of data within 2-3 years, which I will report. The good thing is even if they dont' flower much, they still have the attractive trunks and fall foliage.

I went to college in New Orleans. It was a horribly long, depressing, and expensive experience. There were many times when I was at the end of my rope. Honestly, I don't think I would still be alive, if the sight and fragrance of Crape Myrtles hadn't occasionally reassured me. So yeah, I can see why you want one. I have my desk positioned so that I can look out at my own beautiful CM. It's at least forty years old, and twenty feet tall, with a beautiful, unmolested, mature shape: very much a tree from the Jungles of India. The blooms are a rich orchid/violet color, and are at their peak right now. And yes, the tree continually tells me that everything will be all right. To grow one in New Hampshire, you will need: .A hardy variety .A sun trap (preferably a SE exposure beside your house) .Seriously deep mulch in winter Or: a miniature variety in a pot

Merida, if you are not averse to using a tiny bit of herbicide, you can do better. Cut the tree (not the Crepe) down as low as you can, and daub or paint a solution of appropriate herbicide onto cut surface immediately after making the cut. This will then be absorbed into the root system and kill it for good. Just cutting it-it will continually resprout. If this sounds like something you could do, write back for more details.

Cearbhaill, taking out the grass is definitely an option if I can't figure this out by the end of next year. I have other trees (albeit non flowering) that exist on our property, in or around the lawn which are probably being negatively influenced the same way as the crape myrtle. So it's in my best interest to solve this issue. What do you mean by is the root flat above ground? As I follow the truck down to the ground there is a thin half inch layer of soil (which is covered by mulch) that exists above the major root system that developed off the trunk. So the roots aren't exposed, but yet aren't too deep. I've see crape myrtles in the area where you can see the base roots fully exposed in a 3 foot diameter circle around the truck before the lawn begins, and those trees thrive. And I have also seen the opposite. How could the mounding affect this situation (besides a possible water retention issue which doesn't exist in this case). Thanks for the feedback.