They are from the poplar (Liriodendron) - no way could the Leptospermum, which is at best only a large shrub, generate large enough surface roots to create ankle-twisting hazards :-)

I doubt any of the seeds I have still around - on top of wintered over pots, in the mess of leaves, etc., I have yet to clean up, etc., are viable. However, they ARE stratified, so I can collect some and send them to you to try now. I will have a blizzard of seeds in the fall, and can - if you remind me, as I KNOW I will forget - send you lots then. I can only be thankful that they DO have a low viability, as I have about 4 big ones I missed last fall, and will have dozens of little seedlings over the summer, to pull as it is! Which reminds me, they do seem to sprout on a variable schedule, so don't assume, if nothing shows aboveground in a few weeks that nothing will. It MAY not, but you might get a seedling or two.

I remember reading about "stooling" a tulip tree from this article linked below. Of course, I can't find my copy of the journal now. Here is a link that might be useful: Tulip tree

sounds kind of short.. for the size of the trunk ... the size of the root mass is irrelevant ... will your soil hold in a ball???? if not.. skip it ... start digging a 4 foot root ball ... wrap the sides in burlap ... undercut it.. and finish the burlapping... and then figure out how to lift a 2 to 3 HUNDRED root ball.. out of the hole ... in the mean time.. dig a new hole... then figure out how to drag it across the yard .... i got mine as mail order whips ... for under 10 bucks.. years ago ... frankly i dont know why you want to invest a day or two.. in supreme extensive hard labor ... in my world.. its simply not worth it ... once you get it in the new hole ... hopefully at the proper level.. because i doubt you will be able to lift it out ... backfill about half way.. flood it ... backfill the rest.. flood again ... [and i am presuming your soil will properly drain ...] .. see link for various other variables .... then mulch properly.. and be in charge of water for two years ... this would be best done.. in full dormancy.. 6 to 8 weeks before the heat of summer.. and 4 weeks prior to leaf out.... since you dont say where you are.. who knows when that is .... minutes after ground thaw... in my MI .... again ... i wouldnt waste my time ... ken Here is a link that might be useful: link