Info on Some of the Lesser Known Austins??? -LONG-
jeffcat
14 years ago
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ingrid_vc so. CA zone 9
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agorosesnpots
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Austins in Pennsylvania Ohio River valley
Comments (8)I have lived in California for many years, but I began my rose growing career in Butler County, Pennsylvania, so I am familiar with what you face. Hybrid perpetuals and bourbons are not your best bets. Even here in dry California they benefit from spray. If you love these roses so much you are willing to experiment, I would suggest 'Joasine Hanet', 'Sidonie', and 'Yolande d'Aragon' as the best to grow in a no-spray regimen. They may still get blackspot, but they are the most disease resistant HPs I know of. Here the found rose Grandmother's Hat is also highly disease resistant, but I have heard that it does not do quite as well in humid climates. Still, if you want to try it, it might be worth the risk. All four of these are fragrant and lovely. Do not ignore the rugosa class. Most of them repeat well, are highly disease resistant, cold tolerant, and very fragrant. I love them, but alas, they simply do not grow well in my climate and soil. I do grow one (Dart's Dash) even though it is not happy with the western alkaline soil. They will sucker and spread if grown on their own roots, so you might consider getting them grafted. Pickering Nursery is an excellent source for grafted rugosas. I should mention that the rugosa roses cannot be sprayed. As Mad Gallica mentioned the once blooming European old garden roses are less susceptible to black spot than later classes of roses. Albas and damasks are the most fragrant. Gallicas are moderately fragrant. Gallicas and some of the others will sucker and spread the same way the rugosas do, growing like a thicket. If this is fine with you, go for it. If not you will want to grow them grafted. Again Pickering is a good source. When considering once bloomers, consider ramblers. Some are very fragrant, some are not. Keep away from Dorothy Perkins. I don't think it gets much blackspot, but it gets horrible powdery mildew. But there are literally hundreds of ramblers, some of modest size, some big enough to climb into trees or swallow a shed. Many are not much planted because people are unwilling to plant once bloomers, but they are stunning when in bloom. I myself would not want a garden comprised entirely of once blooming roses, but I think a very good argument can be made for planting 10% of your roses as once bloomers. When in bloom, they outshine anything else you can imagine. There are modern shrubs that are bred for disease resistance. Kordes in Germany is famous for this and has produced some lovely roses, not only disease resistant but also cold hardy. Until recently they did not seem to be selecting for scent, though I do believe some of their recent introductions are fragrant. The ones I have grown were not, but I have not grown many of them. Among the Austins, look among more recent introductions. Disease resistance did not seem to be high on his list of characteristics in the early days, though I'm sure a few were. Mayflower is the first one to be marketed for that quality. There are other breeders who are selecting for this particular trait, and also for fragrance. Paul Barden who sometimes posts here is one. His roses can be found at Rogue Valley Roses. Tom Carruth also considers these two qualities (also stripes, also near-blue color). He currently works for Weeks Roses. He also has posted here from time to time, though I haven't seen him in several years, perhaps because I spend less time on the Roses Forum than this one. And also, please remember that disease resistant does not mean disease immune. All roses get some disease at some point. However, the level of disease varies widely. So that you will get a clear idea of how I judge disease resistance, I'll describe my own practice. I do a single dormant spray of copper (organic) once a year after pruning to break the disease cycle, and no other spray for the rest of the year. Roses that cannot perform reasonably well with this practice will be removed. As I mentioned, my garden is in a low rainfall, semi-arid area. (More arid than semi this year!) Black spot exists here, but rust and powdery mildew are the diseases we worry about more. Rosefolly This post was edited by rosefolly on Fri, Feb 28, 14 at 14:16...See MoreAustin Roses
Comments (22)Great responses everyone, i really appreciate all of the wonderful input! Im looking to plant a grouping of three DA Golden Celebration roses on the south side of our house this spring. The Golden Celebration is supposed to be one of the hardier DA roses and we like many of its attributes. Sounds like it's a wash on own root vs grafted. I might be more inclined to choose a grafted rose because of our shorter growing season but it sounds like an own root, once established, will be just as large. Ive never ordered from Chamblees so that might be a first for me, sounds like a lot of positive feedback too! So if i plan on ordering from Chamblees, i might get more then one cutting per pot? Do i have to divide those then? As i mentioned prior, im looking to do a grouping of three Golden Celebrations to create more of a "bush" appearance. Predfern: Yes i do have a couple of Buck Roses! Last year was my first year planting roses and we decided upon two Buck Roses (Hawkeye Belle and Prairie Star), a hybrid tea Peace Rose, and a Easy Elegance Grandma's Blessing rose. I look forward to see how they made it through the winter after i take the winter protection off....See MoreProblems with Own-roots on alkaline clay ... info. for Ingrid.
Comments (17)Sherry and Floridarose exchange is quite amusing, thanks. Hi Bart: peatmoss is bad for clay since they are both fine particles that bind together. If the clay is alkaline like mine, pH of 7.7, it acts like a base to binds with acidic peat moss, pH of 4. If you mix acid and base together, it forms tight-bonds which result in cement. Hi Kate: I don't get Dr. Huey for Austins since they become monsters here. I like my roses small and compact. Plus my zone is 5a, own-roots die without leaving behind the Dr. Huey eye-sores seen in houses for sale. Dr. Huey is only hardy to zone 6b, can't even bloom in zone 5a. Own-roots are much hardier than Dr. Huey, like Kim Rupert's Lauren is hardy to zone 2a. Hi Kittymoonbeam: Per your question of "I just got bands of Excellenz Von Schubert and just found out that they don't like alkaline soil/water. What to do with them?" Excellenz Von Schubert has multiflora Crimson Rambler in its parentage, and would do BEST with acidic rain water at pH 5.6 like my Blue Mist. My Blue Mist has dark-green leaves in our wet seasons only. Even when I fix my tap water with used lemons, my water still has lime, which binds with phosphorus, and make Blue Mist bloom less. Since your Excellenz Von Schubert also has a hybrid perpetual, Merveille de Lyon, in its parentage .... it's best to use a SOLUBLE high phosphorus, but very low nitrogen. Hybrid perpetual has as bad habit of lanky growth, lots of foliage, and stingy blooms. Sherry posted a link to buy SOLUBLE Monopotassium Phosphate at 52% phosphorus and 34% potassium, with low-salt index of 8.4. Excellenz von Schubert has many petals, translates to more demand for phosphorus, essential for blooms and root growth. My Sonia Rykiel has lots of petals. Within 1 month of purchase as own-root, I counted 15 buds/blooms in a pot watered with SOLUBLE MiracleGro NPK of 10-24-16. Then I put Sonia R. into the ground, and used Lilly Miller acid fertilizer at NPK 10-5-4, it became stingy. This fertilizer worked for Ingrid since her soil is abundant in phosphorus, versus mine tested deficient. What I would do with Excellenz von Schubert? Use fluffy, acidic potting soil like MiracleGro green bag with pH of 6.5 - The used lemon water with vitamin C helps with rooting, then I would use SOLUBLE fertilizer high in phosphorus for maximum bloom. In the Blueberry forum, those with fluffy soil, amended with organic matter like pine and leaves, grow a good crop of blueberries despite their alkaline soil/water. Fluffy soil encourages maximum root-growth, and cluster-root becomes more eficient in acid phosphatase, or secreting acid to unlock phosphorus from soil....See MoreHAVE: Austin/San Antonio Spring Plant Swap April 21
Comments (42)Thanks everyone for pitching in and being part of another great swap! I finally met my goal of not bringing home any of my own plants and giving away more plants than I took home. (It only took three years of swapping to make that happen!) As usual we had plenty of plants, food, door prizes and fun! We had a total count of 23 attending the swap. There were people from north, south, east and west of beautiful downtown Buda. Next time I need to remember to bring some paper bags because I think some of the newbies were about to hyperventilate when they saw all of the great plants and friendly generous people they were meeting. We had a variety of gardening items besides plants. A nice couple from Columbus came and brought some worm castings to share. When we were packing up two ladies pulled up in an SUV and wanted to get rid of a lot of pots and gardening items. Of course much to their surprise and delight we had to fill the SUV up with plants. We have such a great generous group and for those who didn't make this swap you were missed and we hope you will join us next time. I can't wait to get together again in October! Thanks Again, Charlotte...See Morejeffcat
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