As beginners the most prevent problems that lead to a trees death is having improper watering schedules, improper soil mixtures, as well as giving the tree improper light exposure. The most useful resource at your disposal is to visit or join your local Bonsai club and ask the members there any questions you might have. They will be more than willing to help a budding enthusiast and will have great information for growing in you geographical location. Your local bonsai store should know about all the local bonsai clubs if you ask. Here a link to the clubs in NY... http://absbonsai.org/bonsai-club-directory/usa#NY P.S. I also recommend visiting the Library and renting some bonsai books if you haven't already. Its a good resource for beginners and people generally new to the hobby. plus its free :)

Beware of buying rhododendrons and azaleas at big box stores. The PA department of agriculture has discovered that thousands of plants infected with Sudden Oak Death (Phytopthora ramora) were sent to big box stores in PA. Rhododendrons and azaleas are alternate hosts of this disease which kills oak trees. Here is the warning: Sent: Thursday, September 04, 2014 11:05 AM Cc: asam@statecollegepa.us; jad100@psu.edu; kfe2@psu.edu; ddd2@psu.edu Subject: Phytophthora ramorum detected in plant shipment to PA ATTN: All who deal with woody ornamentals Phytophthora ramorum, the pathogen involved with Ramorum Blight/Sudden Oak Death was detected in plants (among a total shipment of 52,000 plants) shipped to PA from a nursery in Oregon. A mix of rhododendrons and other plants were sent to 'big box stores'. The PA Dept. of Ag is initiating a trace forward effort to try to find plants that may be infected, immediately starting with the big box stores. It is likely that some of the plants from that shipment have been sold. Any commercial nurseries, landscaper, etc. concerned with this issue should contact a PDA inspector or the Bureau of Plant Industry directly in Harrisburg and send samples via that route. Any homeowners concerned with this issue may contact Cooperative Extension and arrange to send a sample to the Plant Disease Clinic. CONCERN ABOUT P. RAMORUM SHOULD BE NOTED ON THE SAMPLE. It is not practical to test every sample for P. ramorum. Therefore, give Sara May a 'heads up' on pertinent samples. For detailed info about the Penn State Clinic, see: http://plantpath.psu.edu/facilities/plant-disease-clinic More information will be forthcoming, including fact sheets from PDA. Just be aware that there is a problem and that you may be receiving questions from clientele about this issue. Gary W. Moorman, Prof. of Plant Pathology The Pennsylvania State University Dept. of Plant Pathology & Environmental Microbiology 111 Buckhout Lab University Park, PA 16802-4506 Office 814-863-7401 (voice mail after 4 rings) fax: 814-863-7217 gmoorman@psu.edu

Azaleas need an acidic soil. You didn't mention anything in your mix to make the soil acidic. Usually people add sphagnum peat, peat humus, oak leaves, or some other acidic material to make the soil acidic. To lower pH (make morer acidic) you can always use powdered sulfur. You use the term "mound". Never plant an azalea deeper than it was originally. Usually plant it a little higher than it was before. I hope you mean you are using a raised bed which will help improve drainage. Surrounding the planted plant with sand, etc., will just form a dam which will make drainage much worse. Then after planting, mulch with a material such as pine bark to help keep the soil cool in the summer, help protect the shallow roots from weeds, help conserve moisture, and help protect from temperature changes in the winter. Here is a link that might be useful: How to grow rhododendrons and azaleas.

Great discussion topic... Makes me feel less bad about my place. After all, I have a traditional no-name lilac which blooms quite tolerably in spite of being squeezed in between some other bushes. My hill is actually chilly , windy and shady, so the lilac likes it. My background makes me want to grow edibles though. This does not work. Vegetables that grow like weeds in normal gardens - radishes, squash, carrots, potatoes, dill, - it it a good thing nobody ever sees what becomes of them here. Tomatoes and peppers succeed occasionally, with much care. Yes, I have been searching constantly for varieties that will agree to grow and fruit here. I am quite depressed about it.