direct seed sowing and layer of leaves

17 years ago

Hi everyone, I figured this was the best forum to post my question, I hope so anyway...

The other day I put down a couple of bags of leaves and coffee grounds in one section of my garden. I haven't put down any paper or mulch.

After I had already done this, I got to thinking that I would like for things like Cosmos and bachelor buttons, love in a mist, maybe even some larkspur to grow in that area next summer.

I know I should be throwing those seeds out there soon for my growing zone (on the cusp zone 7b-8a). Would it be okay to throw the seeds on top of the leaf/coffee ground mess or should I just forget the whole idea for this next growing season?

I've been gardening for many years but I've never had much success with direct sowing. Last year around Dec. or Jan I threw out love in a mist seeds and WOW, I had more than what I'd call success! But I threw those seeds out on top of mulch.

The situation I'm describing now is a bit different or is it? I would appreciate ANY information or advice on this matter. Whatever I do, I need to be doing it here soon so please help???

Thanks!

Michelle

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Comments (6)

kqcrna
17 years ago
If it's a thin layer of leaves you could probably just toss the seeds on top and water. If leaves are several inches thick you could just brush some aside and sprinkle seeds onto the soil. Pay attention to the sowing instructions for each type of seed because some require light for germination, some require darkness . If they require darkness they might be better covered with some leaves. Cosmos, bb's, lve in a mist, and larkspur all grow very easily from seed and also reseed themselves. If you left your love in a mist pods to mature and drop seeds themselves this year they might return on their own

Karen
shellva
Original Author
17 years ago
Thanks Karen. I think I'll try pushing the leaves to the side. I did layer them on pretty thick though. I'm also going to give winter sowing a try.

I sprinkled the love in a mist seeds all over the place in the beds it was growing back during the summer when the flowers were spent. But those beds are on the opposite side of the property. The place I have put down the leaves is a different section that didn't have any flowers.

Guess I'll just have to experiment and see right?

Michelle
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I'm putting a link below to the wintersowing forum faq page. It is a slow time of year there, but many of us still check in occasionally. Regarding wind blown containers... normally it is not a problem for me even here by the windy city. If the containers are on the ground tightly arranged and have enough potting mix that is not dried out they won't blow over. There are tips on windy conditions if you search the wintersowing board. Regarding the mulch. It does help greatly with the weeds and soil moisture. But, it also breaks down and gets other debris mixed in that turns it into a good medium for weed seeds to germinate in the mulch itself. The good thing though is that it keeps the ground moist, so pulling weeds is much easier. You will have less weeds with mulch than just bare ground, but it won't be weed free and no maintenance I guess it what I was saying. If you have tightly spaced healthy desirable plants they will mostly out compete and shade out the weeds whether you have a thick layer of mulch or not. My ultimate goal is to not have to buy mulch. I am trying to leave as much plant debris in place as possible and just chop it up a bit. I rake leaves into the beds a few inches deep. If I could chop them up it would be better. I use grass clippings sometimes too. It is not too late to sow annuals that don't need cold in containers or directly now. Due to bad weather I am running late this year. I am going to direct sow some zinnias, sunflowers, cosmos, dill, and a few others this week. I know what all these seedlings look like so I am able to easily weed out anything else that pops up there. That is one of the keys to direct sowing because anytime you disturb the soil and keep it moist for your seeds to germinate you are also creating the ideal condition for weed seeds as well. Wet cardboard and newspaper does work pretty well for smothering existing growth too. Good luck and be sure to check out any newbie seed offers before you purchase more seed this winter. You'd be surprised what you can get. Having a "seeds wanted" list on your exchange page before joining any offers helps adopters/sponsors know what you are looking for too. I think there is an adopt a newbie thread on the seed exchange forum now. Here is a link that might be useful: http://faq.gardenweb.com/faq/wtrsow/
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Travellinjess; I have tried growing onions from direct seeding in the past in your zone. The problem is to seed them when they will amount to something, the germination is so slow that the weeds beat them, and it is almost impossible to find them when they do germinate. I start mine indoors March 31st, for a transplant May 15th I harvest about 2nd to 3rd week in august for storage onions. You can get one of those 10"X20" trays with 12 inserts and can grow enough transplants to provide you with a couple of hundred pounds of storage onions! once they germinate they are very tough, and you could move them outside in days and bring them in at night. I cut the tops a few times, and it causes them to bulb out, and by transplant time they have a good root system and a 3/16" bulb on some of them. I then make a furrow come planting time, and set them out with the appropriate spacing for the variety, they take about a week to settle in and then are away to the races! I tell you if you can manage it you will never go back to onion sets! The picture shows top and bottom shows only 2/3 of that particular crop Hope this helps Chic. PS onions shown are Walla Walla and Hendrix both from Stoke seeds.
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Kimmsr
17 years ago
Those leaves you put down are a mulch. The Bachelor Buttons, Cleome, Snapdragons that self seed in my well mulched planting beds (shredded leaves) all come up in the spring without any problem. I found years ago that whole leaves will inhibit the growth of self seeding plants, something shredded leaves do not do.
shellva
Original Author
17 years ago
These leaves aren't shredded. I'm not sure what trees they are from but I know they are not oak. Also I didn't shred them because they are the smaller, real dry, brittle leaves? Not sure if you can picture them. These leaves are very shriveled up, curled and very papery fine. Some pine needles are mixed in as well. I dumped two bags of them in a spot about 6x10'.

Kimmsr, what do you think? Sow or not sow directly?
brdldystlu
17 years ago
Can you run a lawn mower over the area and chop up the leaves? If you can then I would direct sow but not sure what to tell you about whole leaves and direct sowing. If you have enough coffee grounds on the surface it might be ok.
Sandy
kqcrna
17 years ago
shellva: Since you're going to give wintersowing a try, why not direct sow some and save a few of each type for wintersowing. Last year was my first for WS and I couldn't believe how well it worked. Cosmos, BB's, nigella, and and larkspur all wintersow extremely well. If you try some of each both ways you'll be covered. (But those are all so easy that I really think both will work equally well. With WS you have the extra step of planting out in beds in spring, but the advantage that they'll be protected from birds, washing away, etc)

Karen

direct seed sowing and layer of leaves

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direct seed sowing and layer of leaves

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