Well, all in all I must've moved about 20 roses...I had some that were in their third summer and still only a 6" twig...so, far I think I've lost the weakest of the bunch..the china, Louis XIV... For those that may be slightly interested, these are some of the roses I recall moving because they just weren't performing/growing Cramoisi Superier Therese Bugnet (from the death bed) Gruss an Teplitz Louise Odier Wind Chimes Cymbeline Double Knockout Lyda Rose Louis XIV John Davis Reine de Violettes Honeysweet Perle d'Or Maitland White Annie Vibert Francesca Pretty Lady Lavendar Lassie The Mayflower Knockout There are probably others that I've moved but these are the ones I recall. I am really thinking that the majority of them just need constant watering which they couldn't get where I had them before... I'm enjoying this rose journey still... Robert

The two gallons a week is a "rule of thumb". Some roses are more thirsty than others and may require even more water. Besides, roses can't count. Along with humidity, there are other variables like the size and maturity of the plant, whether or not the temps drop at night and allow the plant to rehydrate the top growth from moisture in the root zone, whether the plant gets afternoon shade ... and more. If the plant is losing more moisture in the top growth due to transpiration ... sweating .. than it can pull up from the root zone, then you may see some wilting during periods of high heat. In my climate, night temps can be 40 to 50 degrees cooler than the day temps. This gives the plant the opportunity to pull the moisture that is around the roots up to the top growth and by morning, the rose will be fully hydrated again and there will be no sign of wilting until later in the day when that transpiration rate stresses the top growth again. As far as mulch being pulled back, it make sense not to have wet mulch right next to the base of the plant because it could cause disease in some climates, but more important, the feeder roots that pull up moisture and nutrients spread out and away from the base of the rose. That's the soil that needs to be kept moist and cooler. Living in a low humidity climate with day temps in the 90s and low 100s for the summer months, I generally give my roses a deep watering once a week and what I call a "feeder root" watering mid week to put moisture into the top few inches of the soil under and around the roses. If we have triple digit temps for several days, since I already have to wash the roses to avoid spider mite infestation, I wash them in the afternoon because roses also absorb moisture through their leaves. Yes, I do get some crispy blooms, but I try to grow roses with blooms that can handle the heat in this garden. Smiles, Lyn

Robert, I'm sure all your roses will come make it through this heat wave. I've noticed that some do take longer to recover than others but as long as yyou're watering, I'm sure they'll be fine. Off the topic: I hope you don't mind a question. I'm catching the rebar teepee fever and I'm curious if you think Pat Austin would be a good candidate for a teepee. My Pat is 2nd yr, grafted, in great shape but has thrown up 3 huge, long canes...the largest is about 8 or 9 ft. I think Pat is just crying out for some support. What do you think? Thanks, Shelley

My soil isn't very good. Very sandy loam with lots of rocks. Drains very fast. Can compact to concrete like hardness (I know this only too well from my project to replace the front lawn with drought tolerant plants--oh my aching back!). Low fertility which may explain why rugosas like it so much. Just yesterday I moved 1 rose and planted 5 others. All holes drained well, but in one I had the hose turned on full blast using a watering wand, and the hole wouldn't fill up--the water was draining as fast as I put it in! I try to put into practice for my roses some of what I've learned in classes at the local botanic garden. Group plants together with similar water needs. Also plant in plant communities--the concept is the plants help each other in some way, whether it is by nourishing the soil with nitrogen-fixing capabilities, giving natural mulch from leaves, or providing shade--especially for roots but sometimes from above to block the worst of summer heat for those plants that need some protection. Not long after I planted Wild Edric, I gave him a friend in the form of a heat and sun loving drought tolerant salvia from South Africa called Salvia namaensis. This salvia is very bushy and grows fairly fast. It provides WE's roots with shade for much of the day. Needs zero fertilizer and very little water yet blooms most of the year. How much of a difference this has made for Wild Edric I don't know, but neither plant seems to require much water and they both look great. I have been experimenting with putting various other low water plants, especially California natives adjacent to my roses. And many do get their roots shaded by various neighbors. Sometimes I use drought tolerant grasses such as Bouteloua gracilis and others that also provide food for wildlife and snacks for my dogs. Sort of mutually beneficial gardening with a minimum of intervention needed on my part, kind of mini ecosystems. I have lots of bees, birds, and butterflies in my garden as they can find food and shelter there year round. A nitrogen fixer that you might like is Olneya Tesota (Desert Ironwood). It has lavender sweet pea like flowers and is a nurse plant in desert areas. Can go for periods without much water or handles moderate garden watering just fine (but frequent summer water will kill it). Very slow growing however. Melissa Here is a link that might be useful: Olneya Tesota, Desert Ironwood