35-38 deg, WOW thats hot! Its only about the mid 20's here. Plenty hot enough for me but don't think its should be a problem at all for the brugs. I have it in a large container so thinking maybe its not drying out enough between watering and maybe not enough roots to take up the water, we have gotten rain the last week also. It is really healthy looking and don't even have any yellow leaves. Guess I'll be experiencing the hot weather soon. Coming to Ontario on the weekend for two weeks.

Ah. Not so great. The reason your tree is aborting flowers and small fruits is because is is severely undernourished. Over, very overwatered and suffering from Phytophthora, causing root rot and lack of nutrient uptake. Check how moist the soil is 18 to 24 inches down, not the "crusty" surface. If it is still wet, don't water. Assess your soil moisture first. If it could stand to be watered, water some, then apply a high quality citrus fertilizer with an NPK ratio as close to 5:1:3 as you can find, along with the full compliment of micronutrients (Magnesium, Iron, Calcium, Zinc, Manganese.) Then, fertilize again in 2 months. You should be fertilizing 4 times a year during the growing season. Patty S.

Granola Gardener had a similar question, but your symptoms sound more severe. Take a look at my reply to Granola (I linked it and also pasted it at the end of this message)... But in addition, it really sounds like your plants are root bound. Gently lift them from their pots to see what the soil and roots look like. You may need to pot them into a larger pot (see my notes on potting soil for hibiscus below) and/or prune the roots a bit. Also, in the fall go ahead and prune the plants, very drastically if you like. Make sure the roots are ok in the pot and that you haven't been overfeeding or underfeeding. Hibiscus generally bloom on new wood (especially tropical) so pruning before winter not only helps to overwinter but also gets new wood growing by spring. Since you're in Winnipeg, put them in the brightest room you have, and maybe supplement with additional plant lights. -- Here's what I wrote to Granola: Let 'em dry out a bit (just a bit). Hibiscus don't like "wet feet". Also, many so-called hibiscus fertilizers are horrible for hibiscus (way too high on the phosphate). Try a tomato fertilizer or dig some Osmocote into the soil. A low middle number (7-2-7 or so) is a pretty good route. Also, how long have these plants been in the same pots? They may be root bound, in which case you can root prune (trim a bit of the root ball all the way around, and do normal root bound procedures to encourage new roots) or simply pot up. For hibiscus potting soil, I mix regular potting soil with perlite, bark, and some cactus soil if I can find it -- also a little potting charcoal if I've got it. That makes a very well draining soil. Finally, since you say you keep them moist, you may have salts built up in your pots from the tapwater. Let the soil dry out and then run the hose on the pot with a gentle stream til a good amount of water runs through the bottom. This should help wash any salts out. Here is a link that might be useful: Granola Gardener's hibiscus question

Gabi, Not that I dissagree with what you wrote one bit about repotting, but I do have a question about the plant not getting nutrients. Would it matter really all that much if you're using VF-11 as prescribed as a foliar feed? The plants soak up the nutrients via leaves, not roots. When I feel up to spraying the VF-11 and not wasting it via roots, my plants tend to perk up better and faster, than just letting it run through the soil to the saucer. Could this be a temporary fix until she decides which way to go in terms of how to repot? Since repotting may cause the plant to make more roots instead of flowers for some time into the future it may be better to try foliar feedings and more water just long enough to get flowers, then repot. I'd go with the catch pot, When I do catch pots I tend to stand a PVC pipe all the way down to the bottom of the pot up to the top of the catch pot then about an inch of aquarium charcoal, then an inch or so of gravel, then place the pot next to the pipe on the gravel, make sure the pipe is on the bottom of the catch pot. I then pour gravel all the way around the inside pot to keep it in place. The reason for the pipe is I run a dowel into the pipe all the way down so I can see the water level in the catch pot without disturbing anything. Since you don't want the water level above the bottom of the inner pot, you should mark the dowel where the water should not go. It works much like a hydroponic pot. You can also water from the pipe.