I'm not certain how accurate this test is (and they vary from extraordinarily accurate to absolutely horrible). Statistically, if it's the average, it's likely to be inaccurate--so a retest through Logan Labs would probably be a good idea if you want an accurate answer. That having been said, I'll read it as if it were accurate. Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC or ME) 6.6: Sandier soil, with some silt in there in all probability. It does drift kind of fast, so testing every other year once it stabilizes is a good idea. pH 6.3: Nominally at the low end of the optimal range, but there are some minor adjustments I'd like to take care of. In a sandy soil, the proper balancing pH varies, but I think you're going to be around 6.6-6.8. Organic Matter (OM) 2.7%: In the Fair range, but I'd prefer to see this Good (4%) to Excellent (6%+) in a soil this sandy. Always mulch mow (or have your service do it). Mow in every fall leaf. Consider organic feeding if your service has it at a reasonable price and it's actually organic rather than "kind of organic." Edit: I skipped Phosphorus! Phosphorus 32: Pretty much normal if they're using the Melich III test. None required or desired by these results, but I'm not sure how much to trust them in this case... Calcium 63%: Optimal is 60-70, but in sandier soils it rides more toward the top of the range. We use fast acting lime, either Encap, Mag-I-Cal, or Pennington Fast Lime, to change this. Recommendations below. Magnesium 22.7%: Very high, which can lead to a tight soil that cracks when dry and is hard to dig. We can't counter this directly, so we increase the calcium to compensate. In the liming, that's why I'm only using fast acting (calcium carbonate) lime without any magnesium in it...we don't dare make this problem worse. Cheap lime will make this problem even worse very quickly. Avoid all magnesium sources, which is pretty easy. Potassium 3.6%: Technically a touch on the low side, but nothing to worry about per this test. Ignore this for this year, but figure you'll need to add some K next year. Minor Elements: Not tested. Recommendations: April 1: Apply 3 pounds per thousand square feet of Encap, Mag-I-Cal, or Pennington Fast Lime. October 1: Apply 3 pounds per thousand square feet of Encap, Mag-I-Cal, or Pennington Fast Lime.

I have hardly seen a soil test that did not recommend nitrogen, which kinda makes you wonder if it's really needed. How do your plants grow? If they seem to lack nitrogen, by all means add it, but your soil is so healthy with high organic matter and nutrients that it may not need nitrogen. As for how to calculate it, if you want 1.2 lb/100 s.f., here's how to convert. X is the sq ft of your garden space. Let's say you have fertilizer that is 12-0-0 so 12% nitrogen. X sq ft in your garden x 1.2 lb n/sq ft x 100 lb fertilizer/12 lb N = (X x 1.2 x 100)/12 There are online calculators too. Your pH is not too high but doesn't need to go higher so if you've been adding any lime, you can quit that. 8% OM is right in the good range, and since your P and K are quite healthy I would cut back on the annual compost additions so they don't get excessive. Once you get good soil OM levels you can go into maintenance mode, 1-2" per year. Or mulch with wood chips or leaves which have lower P and K levels and will feed the soil with OM to replace what decays away without adding much other nutrients.

Since the data on what's below the testing horizon is an unknown, I default to assuming that it's exactly the same as the slice that was tested. We know that's untrue, but it's the only assumption I can make. What actually changes is anything expressed in pounds per acre. The average soil weight per acre differs by how deep you go, so the standard 4" results in just about 2 million pounds per acre for most soils (there's surprisingly little difference between sand and clay in this instance). Consequently, a soil that's measured at 3" only weighs about 1.5 million pounds. Anything expressed in PPM results in a different weight. Anything expressed in PPA results in a different weight when adjusted to the different depth. That influences how much stuff I add to correct things. So 100 pounds short on a 3" test would result in 200 pounds short on a 6" test (all else being equal, again, the only assumption we can really make). Typically, grass' feeder roots live in the top four inches (there are exceptions, but that's a good average), and that's the only depth we really need to worry that much about. Structural and water-tapping roots go deeper, but don't absorb much in the way of resources and care far less about pH, as long as it isn't completely ridiculous (it almost never is).

I guess it is just a difference in terms. To me, a little shade means that the plants are shaded during part of the day. I have the same problem with a light frost. In my area, a frost is what occurs on a still, clear night when the temperatures are between 32 and 38 degrees. I have noticed other people farther north call frost when temperatures fall below 32 degrees. To me that is a freeze. The sun is more intense the further south you go. I remember in college that people from up north would go out to get a tan. When they would just start to turn a little red they would go inside, where they would continue to cook and turn deep red, and even blister. People will say that Texas has a long growing season, when in reality we have 2 short ones, spring and fall. With tomatoes some gardeners plant a late winter crop that ripens in June and July and set out another set of plants in mid July and early August for a fall crop.