Need advice about limbing up a burr oak
15 years ago
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Advice transplanting 4' Burr Oak
Comments (30)Ken, Way to stick with the topic! Greatplainsturf, You say you plan on going back later and removing the top burlap and you should. I'd leave the stakes for now as long as they are loose enough to allow some movement. I understand you get high winds there. Maybe you addressed this and I missed it but, will the seller not honor the warranty if you remove the burlap now? Is that the issue? Are these the seller's planting instructions or are they warranty terms? It might be worth asking. If seller won't replace the tree if you take off the burlap and most of the basket and it dies, and that's a concern, then follow his instructions and leave all in place till the tree leafs out. If seller ok's it, I'd redig around the rootball, cut off as much wire and burlap as you can and backfill. I think the pipe needs to go. I've transplanted a few trees this size with my better half, a strong and determined German, a pickup with ramps and a dolly. I was out of my mind and would never do it again. Smaller is better for oaks with taproots. I understand why you did it, that's an impressive tree. Barb...See MoreTransplanting Burr Oak
Comments (22)Stay on top of the water, especially this summer, but don't overwater. You can kill some trees easily overwatering as well as underwatering. I bought a bur that size 4 years ago, and if I can find the watering instructions that I used, I'll post them for you. Mine was 4" caliper, and came in a 45 gallon bucket. Bur oak is a very hardy native, and that's the only reason yours is not dead already. Give it some TLC and it will reward you and your neighbors' offspring for many years to come. Remove the stakes after one growing season. The stakes will weaken the tree if the trunk is not allowed to naturally sway in the wind. Make sure the root flair is exposed...this is very important for the long term health and overall vigor of the tree. If the root flair is underground, carefully expose it and remove any roots that are girdling the trunk. Finally, apply mulch - 3 inches - all around the base of the tree out to the drip line. Compost, shredded leaves or shredded cedar are all good choices. The idea of the mulch is to promote tree roots to grow out, aid in moisture retention of the soil, and help prevent competition from surrounding grass and weeds. The tree will take awhile (up to 3 years) to fully establish, but you will see the leaves get larger and more numerous every year. After 3 years the tree will not need any more help from you and should make it fine on its own. Just for comparison, my tree only had 5 or 6 acorns it's first year in the ground. The next year, 25. Last year, over a 100 (but less than 200). So far the acorns have never been a problem because the squirrels eat every single one in November...it only took a couple of days....See MoreBurr Oak Transplanting
Comments (16)Thanks guys, especially Ken, who knows and contributes a LOT more about trees than I, hence the "expert" designation. This tree was pretty much a "if you don't dig it out Thursday evening, we're going to cut it down Saturday morning" deal. I knew it was a hit or miss. Though it's "big", it's growth seems to have been stunted a bit by where it was originally planted, under other larger trees. It's trunk is no larger than others I've dug up, and there just weren't very many roots to dig up with it, though I started digging 3' from the trunk. The canopy isn't much, it looks more like a tall stick with some branches growing out of it. While the leaves are brown, they're not all dry and crinkly, and they haven't fallen off. It's interesting that Scotjute mentions that it was not unusual for his smaller trees to lose their leaves after transplanting and generate new leaves later. Patience doesn't cost anything, and it's an interesting experiment... Thanks! vince...See MoreDoes anyone have LARGE burr oak acorns and caps?
Comments (16)Just a thought to consider. Trees grown in the South, may not acclimate to northern growing locations. This topic came up with other tree species and failure to thrive when moved north. The thinking was tree grown from southern trees cuttings or seed, has developed the coping mechanisms needed for that climate. Trees grown in northern areas are more used to that weather and thrive in it better. Often do poorly when shipped south. This would be where the advice comes from "Find a local nursery to get your trees from, so you have a better survival rate." Trees grown locally, do better in local conditions. I know that there SEEMS to be no difference in trees, Burr Oaks for instance, when looking at them. Just that trees grown from southern acorns may not be as successful in maturing to full size. Would be easy to be wrong too, just that this "locale" of parent tree information has come up before in big failures-to-thrive discussions. Did seem most failures were imported bushes and trees, not local grown stuff. Good luck to any acorn growers with Jeff's acorns. Hope they grow swiftly for you! I have several seedling Burr Oaks coming along, that I started from the backyard tree a couple years ago. They are destined for fence row trees in the field or gifts. Rabbit nibblers are my worst enemy, not cold. The funny little hats on Burr Oak acorns caught my eye, like Russian fur hats. Mine are always the same size as other acorns, Pin, White, Red Oaks in the yard and woods. No acorns yet this year, but the Hickory nuts are falling. Very warm and lots of rain so trees don't quite think fall is here. Got colder last night, so maybe the best of summer is over....See More- 15 years ago
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