fruit trees bring in bees.. fungus/molds .. diseases ... rotting fruit.. etc ... and a regular chemical regiment for good production ...

i would suggest.. in your very limited space.. that fruit might not be that great an idea ... unless you would like the adventure.. lol ...

ken

any suggestions then?

I had peach and apple trees at my previous home and I really liked them, but I do admit that there was a lot of fruit waste.. the orchard was far enough from my house that it wasn't too bothersome.

I like city life but miss the perks of the country.

Kaitz, I live on a small lot, too (37x98) on a corner, so I feel you. I've dealt with the same issues.

I would have to disagree with Ken. A DWARF fruit tree is not that big a deal. If you don't want to put the energy or money into spraying, then just let the fruit mature imperfectly and 1. animals will eat it 2. rake up what falls. Just like raking up leaves.

We got a dwarf plum tree and are extremely happy with it. We had one plum on it this year.

Conversely, if you pick off all the baby plums, there will be no fruit issue.

There are also hydrangea trees.

7'x7' isn't enough space for a dwarf fruit tree. Not to mention fruit trees are a royal p.i.t.b. Bugs, fruit litter, disease issues. No thanks.

Hmmm... Paperbark maple?

Paperbark maple grows to much taller than 8'.
kaitz33 should ask in the shrub forum for shrub recommendations for a shrub that grows in tree form.

Are you against Japanese maples entirely, or would one that looks different that what you're used to work for you?

They're kind of like dogs; large variety of sizes & forms.

An attractive, ornamental deciduous tree not over 8' tall with rather minimal spread or pruneable to that effect sounds like a tall (no pun intended) order.

Does this tree's canopy need to clear the ground quite a bit, or would one of the 'mound-like' Japanese maples like a low-grafted Crimson Queen work?

For that matter, if the 'foot print' of the planted site is 7'x7', what if you did plant something that got considerably taller, but the canopy & lower limbs were high enough to be overhead? What's the drawback - too much shade, or what?

Richard.

I sometimes get the impression that Ken doesn't actually like trees at all - at least not trees that behave like trees :) I wouldn't have thought that dealing with a bit of fallen fruit and a few leaves from a single small tree was that difficult.... anyhow..... I have a tiny town garden (about 15ft x 30ft) and in it I have a weeping birch, Betula pendula 'Youngii', a medlar, a mountain ash (Sorbus vilmorinii), a Hibiscus syriacus and a 'tree' peony. I used also to have a Malus 'Golden Hornet'. Don't be put off your idea of a little tree. I am linking to a useful list. The eventual heights may be more than you want but they'll take a long time to gte there. Another idea is to prune a shrub, eg a lilac, to a single or multiple stem tree form as someone else has suggested. There are also many, many fruit trees you could grow, as long as they are on a dwarfing root stock such as Giselle 5 for cherries which will only grow to about 8ft. Do a bit of research and I am sure you can get something interesting.

Here is a link that might be useful: Trees for small gardens

IMHO you can get one of the apple tree cultivars that have no side branching - pre-caffeination can't remember their variety names but there are several. Also you might like Rhamnus frangula 'Fine Line' for a unique look. Otherwise a shrub is the solution here, not a tree (esp as the definition for 'tree' does not fit the bill in the OP).

Dan

Japanese Maple Higasayama

A dwarf apple could be shaped to just about anything you want. Espaliered, pleached, whatever. Just make sure there is another apple or crabapple in the neighborhood to pollinate it.

tj

'Colonnade' is the apple var I was thinking of upthread.

Dan

The reason I want something short is because I want to be able to trim it without a fireman's ladder. I live alone and am pretty short so I need something logical. I re-evaluated the area and it's more like 10' by 8'. I'm 99% leaning toward the Japanese Maple at this point. Is it OK to plant one in this time of year in PA? Is there any specific fertilizing product? I read up a lot on it and will a lot more just didn't know if anyone had any recs? Also, is there anyway to keep it small? My sister in law has this really neat and small one but she just bought the house, perhaps it's not full grown.

There are many japanese maples that stay small. I'm not sure of all the varieties...I'm sure someone on this thread or the maple thread can help you.

It isn't the best time to plant a tree, definitely not. That being said, if you are on a budget, japanese maples are usually on sale at many nurseries this time of year. This time of the year is the only time I'd buy one...they are so expensive otherwise!

If you are set on a Japanese maple, as long as you get a suitable small cultivar there's no reason why you should need to prune it all. Pruning is not a given for trees. It is only necessary if there is a reason such as you have chosen too big a cultivar, the tree is badly sited or planted and grows misshapen or it sustains some damage.

Here is a link that might be useful: Japanese maple guidance

'Trim' also makes me wonder what you're got in mind.

It's my understanding that when pruning deciduous trees, it's desirable to prune the unwanted branches back near the trunk or large branch they come off of, near the branch's 'collar.'

You don't 'trim' them like you'd hedge some shrub rows. Trim a branch out near the end, and a group of smaller branches may sprout just proximal to where you cut, which can make something of a mess. And most people don't do much routine trimming to maintain shape, like would be done with those shrub rows (e.g.: some yews) or a lawn.

Not sure that's the sort of thing you meant by being able to trim it without a fireman's ladder, but thought I'd mention it, just in case.

Richard.