It depends why you were using the peat moss in the first place. What was your goal in using it?

If acidity was a goal then coir won't fit the bill as it isn't acidic. Pine bark in very small/partially composted pieces would fit the bill. In some areas this is easy to find and inexpensive, in other areas it's hard to find and/or pricey.

Sphagnum peat and coir have nearly identical water retention curves. They both retain about 90-95% of their volume in water at saturation and release it over approximately the same curve until they both lock water up so tightly it's unavailable for plant uptake at about 30-33% saturation. Coir actually has less loft than sphagnum peat, and therefore, less aeration. Because of this propensity, coir should be used in mixes at lower %s than peat. Because of the tendency to compact, in the greenhouse industry, coir is primarily used in containers in sub-irrigation (bottom-watering) situations. Many sources produce coir that is high in soluble salts, so this can also be an issue.

Using coir as the primary component of soils virtually eliminates lime or dolomitic lime as a Ca source because of coir's high pH (6+). Gypsum should be used as a Ca source, which eliminates coir's low S content. All coir products are very high in K, very low in Ca, and have a potentially high Mn content, which can interfere with the uptake of Fe.

I haven't tested coir very extensively, but I have done some testing of CHCs (coconut husk chips) with some loose controls in place. After very thoroughly leaching and rinsing the chips, I made a 5:1:1 soil of pine bark:peat:perlite (which I know to be very productive) and a 5:1:1 mix of CHCs:peat:perlite. I planted 6 cuttings of snapdragon and 6 cuttings of Coleus (each from the same plant to help reduce genetic influences) in containers (same size/shape) of the different soils. I added dolomitic lime to the bark soil and gypsum to the CHC soil. After the cuttings struck, I eliminated all but the three strongest in each of the 4 containers. I watered each container with a weak solution of MG 12-4-8 with STEM added at each watering, and watered on an 'as needed basis', not on a schedule. The only difference in the fertilizer regimen was the fact that I included a small amount of MgSO4 (Epsom salts) to provide MG (the dolomitic lime in the bark soil contained the MG, while the gypsum (CaSO4) in the CHC soil did not. This difference was necessary because or the high pH of CHCs and coir.) for the CHC soil.

The results were startling. In both cases, the cuttings grown in the CHC's exhibited only about 1/2 the biomass at summers end as the plants in the bark mix.

I just find it very difficult for a solid case to be made (besides "It works for me") for the use of coir or CHC's. They're more expensive and more difficult to use effectively. The fact that some believe peat is in short supply (no where near true, btw) is easily offset by the effect of the carbon footprint of coir in its trek to the US from Sri Lanka or other exotic locales.

That's the view from here. YMMV

Al

I *think* what tapla/Al said is that you don't need coconut coir or peat moss.

which is my experience.

I use some peat as a small fraction (10-15%) of the pine bark-based soils I use for my short-term containers - like floral display containers for the gardens & decks, and for growing veggies. That's pretty much all I use it for. FWIW - for my purposes, my results using coir in lieu of peat have not been good.

Al

Corner, since the peat moss is so readily available and the cause for changing is of no concern, keep thinking peat moss. It is relatively inexpensive, does a good job of making the pile slightly acidic and mixes well with soils.
Into a pile it is of no concer whether it mixes well at that time....but if you are using it as a add-on to any use of the compost, it is necessary to dampen the peat with hot water to cause it t0o absorb moisture and mix readily.

I wouldn't use coir or peat in a soil mix.

But to make a recommendation on a mix, I would need to know what is the intended purpose of the soil, containers, raised beds, lawns, garden?

CORGICORNER HERE:
Unfortunately some of the people who responded have not included their return address, so I received the following message:
(PLEASE NOTE: The member responding to your post has chosen not to reveal his or her email address. Therefore, you cannot reply to this message via email.)
IF I RECEIVE A MESSAGE WITH A RETURN ADDRESS I WILL RESPOND.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
To answer some of the questions:
The mix I use is for all my container grown plants.
I do usually use a peatmoss/perlite mix such as Sunshine.It so happens that I have run out of this, and need to make another small batch of my mix.I have plenty of coir.
I have never seen pine bark to use in a soil mix. It just might not be used in my section of the country--South Eastern New England.
I have used coir before, but not in my mix.
This is NOT a big thing. The quantity to be mixed is relatively small.
Expense, in this case, is inconsequential
I thank each and everyone who has responded, or who will.

You might find worthwhile information about how to use container soils to help your plants grow to their potential if you follow the link provided below.

One of the soils I use is in the middle of the pic - various bark products @ perimeter:

{{gwi:2389}}

Al

Here is a link that might be useful: More about container soils here

Just picking up on the point above re: peat moss lowering soil acidity. I have made Al's soil mix with pine bark, perlite, peat, lime & fertilizer. It appears I have over done it on the lime and therefore have containers with high PH - I made the mix last year and only just realized my mistake after my beans showed symptoms of iron deficiency - I bought a PH meter and tested the mix, its showing a ph of 8 plus. How do I reduce it? Is it as simple as adding more Peat? ..... would like to lower the ph quickly if that is possible?

Add 1 oz white vinegar to each gallon of irrigation water and use a urea-based fertilizer.

Lime homemade bark or peat-based media with dolomitic (garden) lime @ 1/3-1/2 cup/cu ft.

Al

your e-mails to me tell me that I can not communicate with you because your e-mail is not provided.

THANK YOU BOTH FOR YOUR INPUT.

corgicorner

What's wrong with communicating through this forum? That's what it was intended for!

Many members of GW opt out of including their personal email address for various reasons but it does not slow down the interchange of information, advice or opinions when responses are directed through the forums rather than personally or individually. Besides, it gives everyone the opportunity to share through the exchange of information.

There are lots of reasons to contact someone outside the forum, among them
- to offer birthday greetings, get well wishes, or personal condolences on illness or loss of a loved one
- to arrange trades of plants, seeds, or other garden goodies and exchange personal info like name and address
- to pass on dirty jokes
- to argue a point without attacking someone openly on an open forum.
- to provide internet links to sites blocked by GardenWeb (like DG.)

These are just a few instances where I have used member email links from GW.

Karen

I don't think anyone is denying that contacting members directly by email for personal reasons can have its benefits:-) But not everyone is equally willing to give up that degree of privacy, either. And unless I am reading something different, I didn't get that the OP was attempting to impart info other than what was in response to poster questions. So why not do it here on the forum where everyone who is interested can participate and benefit?

btw, I've linked to DG numerous times and so have many other posters. I've never seen anything in the GW Terms of Service or policy statements that prohibit that or any other links, aside from those that are self-promoting or advertising in nature.

I never had problems linking to it either, before yesterday. I got a screen telling me that I couldn't do it.

Try it. It won't even let me copy/paste the message.

Karen

During my master gardener training, I asked the UW-Extension educator what renewable amendment can be used in place of non-renewable peat moss.

The answer: coir (aka coconut husks)

You CAN use pet hair as a substitute too, if you so choose, but that you CAN use it is no sign that it's equal to or better. The fact is, there are considerable differences between the two (peat/coir), enough to give pause to anyone that researches it a little, leaving the decision as to what suits the grower's needs up to that individual grower.

For my purposes, coir has never been able to stand next to peat in (container) soils , so I avoid it. YMMV.

Al

Given your question, I'm shocked the "educator" did not recommend compost as a replacement for peat. I'd also be somewhat skeptical of any other 'knowledge' they passed along.

Lloyd