I'm not sure why you are using Bayer All in One for JBs. Did someone indicate it works that way? My understanding was that just about nothing will eliminate JBs so that is why I'm puzzled that you are using this product.

I can tell you that many, maybe most, posters on this forum do NOT use Bayer All in One for anything--and in fact disapprove of it and discourage use of it. You just applied a fertilizer and a fungicide as well as an insecticide--much more than you need. You may be overfeeding your roses if they were recently fed some other way, and using a fungicide when there is no fungus is needlessly inflicting the environment. And even if the insecticide kills JBs (and it may not), it also kills lots of good bugs and bees which are needed by the environment.

Maybe I'm missing something here, but I personally think that All in Once stuff ought to be completely outlawed.

My advice is to deadhead all blooms. That alone should cut down on the number of JBs. I don't know how long JBs hang around your state, but there will be a limit and then they will go away. In the meantime, you have every right to curse the critters and rant and rave against them as much as you desire. They are truly despicable little monsters!

Kate

Aside from what Kate said,the JBs have to eat the contaminated foliage and flowers to affect them meaning you'll still have damage. You're also killing all foliage eating insects and their larva, including butterfly caterpillars. I suspect the active products gets into the pollen and nectar so there go the bees.
While JBs are plentiful in the surrounding soybean and corn fields they're few in my garden. I had a few days last week when they were plentiful but see few now. Perhaps they sense that I'm not bothered by them so they stay away. What ever the case, while neighbors spray and complain about the beetles, I do nothing and I seem to be less affected. I also enjoy lots of butterflies and bees.
This comes after realizing battling the buggers is futile.

Learn to live with them, everything has a season. Here, we enjoy a long spring flush before they appear and they are gone back into the ground well before the fall flush.
Lots of roses in my house right now as I am quick to cut blooms in the early morning before they are damaged. Then I go back out with a jar of soapy water & get all the beetles I can.
I apply no insect controls--ever-- and am free of many insects that plague other rose gardeners here. I don't even have thrips!
And thanks to application of milky spore not that many beetles either.

About the migration of pesticides into your vegetable garden: This much is certain, a soil-drench pesticide has to be at least partially in the soil water in order for a rose to take it up and if a pesticide is in the soil water, it can migrate. It doesn't help matters that the soil drench product uses several times as much pesticide per rose as the sprayed product.

I thought my post made it clear, but to explain, I am using All In One b/c:
1. Roses are defoliated from blackspot, hence the need for fungicide
2. The remaining rose leaves are quickly being turned into lace by JBs, hence the need for insecticide--and yes, All In One label indicates that it is effective against JBs
3. The fertilizer just comes with it.

I don't particularly want any butterfly larvae--in fact, I use Bacillus Thuringiensis on my cole crops specifically to deal with destructive larvae.

I cut blooms into the house before they open, so when will bees have a chance to be poisoned?

I have never applied chemical insecticides before, but my spring flush has always been afflicted by tons of thrips.

I applied milky spore for years with no effect on the JB grubs.

Before this, I've always used organic means of control. Greencure, BT, milky spore, etc. I still fertilize with horse manure/alfalfa and mulch with shredded leaves. But there comes a time when just waiting for the season to pass is too much to deal with. Rather than turning this post into a philosophical debate about how bad All In One is, I'd appreciate more answers to the specific questions that I raised.

I used this on my mom's roses and it did nothing for the blackspot. I applied as directed so I can't answer your question regarding your method of appplication. I have not noticed any decrease in bees because of using this product.

garden, I used to use the Bayer drench. It will help against black spot, but you may still need a spray if the BS pressure is high and conditions are right. If you have active BS now, I'd also spray with the Bayer disease control spray.

As far as JBs go, it will kill them after then eat the leaves or flowers. It probably will not stop your buds from getting damaged a bit. I never saw the bees affected by using the drench, but I can't be sure. If there are no open flowers, then they will not come in contact with it.

I have to be honest that when I used the drench, I did not have a thrip problem. I thought it was a coincidence that I started having the thrips after I stopped using the Bayer. I stopped using the drench because it became too expensive to use once I had 100+ roses. I also preferred to use the spray for disease because it works so well and I wanted to use organic fertilizers. However, since my thrip problems are SO BAD, I did decide to use the Bayer drench on a few roses that have bad problems with thrips.

I don't get a lot of JBs. I did put down Milky Spore a few years ago. I'm not sure if it's that or other things, but I only get a few. And the few that I saw were dead. Not sure if that was from the drench, but I can't really think of anything else.

I know you are like me, you want to be organic and do all the right things, but sometimes it's not possible. I also wish there was just a drench for bugs or BS, but there isn't. I think judicial use of the drench is fine. When I used it, I still had many bees, butterflies and other bugs. Just not thrips :)

I'm grateful that someone understands the well-intentioned and mostly organic gardener turning to chemicals once in a while. For the past two weeks, daily temperatures have consistently reached 95 with high humidity, and the disease and insect pressure have just become overpowering for my roses.

Buford, when you saw no thrips, that's early in the season, right? In my garden, thrips disfigure the first flush, then seem to escape notice by June. Were you using the drench starting in spring? I'm thinking that if this drench works, I might use it once a year, in mid June, so it helps the roses through the worst of the JB and blackspot explosion that takes place in the latter half of June and all of July. By August, most of the JBs are gone in our area, and the BS is whatever had managed to take hold during June and July. So I can see a potential for using this product (if it works) to help my roses through the worst of the peak pest season.

My main concern would be the proximity of the veggie beds. Can you move your veggies away from the roses? Three feet is awfully close. And does the fine print say anything about proximity to veggies or how long it lasts in the soil?

Are you supposed to water again soon to help the uptake of the Bayer? I think that's the case with most soil drenches. You may want to read the fine print again just in case.

It's very important to mix it to the right strength, but it's probably not critical to get an exact number of ounces on each shrub.

Hi garden, I have to say I never noticed thrips when I used the Bayer. Of course I had fewer roses then. I now have a few that are always infested with thrips. Even the ones that don't show damage are infested. I brought some into work (beautiful blooms) and there were dozens of the little thrips all over my computer screen. I wanted to throw up, it was so sickening.

I am also trying this new treatment for thrips Naturalis. It's a fungi that you spray on the roses that kills the thrips but not beneficials. It takes awhile to work, and you have to stagger it with the fungicide spray. I'm waiting to see if it works.

In the meantime, I will use the Bayer at least in the spring for one or two times on some roses and see if that lessens the thrip issues. It does help with BS, but I still think you'll have to spray, at least some of the roses.

Just an FYI, but Imidacloprid (Merit) will kill JB's on contact. Orthene and many other insecticides will have no effect. What people are telling you about the drench is true - the JB's will have to eat some of the rose, first. However, you can spray them directly on just the rose buds/blossoms and it will kill them.

Unfortunately, that's still a daunting task. It will encourage spider mites (I've had them directly on the flower, but not the rest of the bush!), and the dead JB's may serve to attract even more.