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African Violets

will cold kill my AVs?

16 years ago

It's so cold here - INSIDE my house - that I'm actually worried about my AVs. I don't want to leave the heat on while I'm at work all day... and I don't really need it while I'm sleeping (underneath about 12 blankets, of course)... but should I be worried about my AVs?

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Comments (5)

itsdeb
16 years ago
African Violets can withstand temperatures in the 60s but if it gets down into the 50s you're sure to have trouble. If you are growing them with natural light from your windows, keep in mind that the temperature close to windows can be much colder than it is further out into the room. One problem you could run into is powdery mildew. The only time I ever had it was when I had some plants in my windows and the winter nights were very cold. It's kind of like having pets like a dog or cat. If they are in your home when you're gone or sleeping, their needs must be taken into consideration.
irina_co
16 years ago
Violetta -

if your place is less than 65F - you will see some deterioration on your plants - they will start gettinng crunchy, hugging the pot - trying to keep themselves warm. Keep them on a dry side - water them just barely - otherwise you will loose them to root rot.

My dear friend was always complaining that she cannot grow violets and she loves them so much - so I set her with a small shelving unit with lights, bunch of Dandy pots, fertilizer - and 30 blooming named violets as a birthday gift. So everything was doing great until the winter came. At that time - she decided that she really needed to save money - so she kept her place at 48F while she was out - and saved I think $10 a month on her electric bill - she lived in the apartment - so the space was not that big. Guess what - in a month they all were dead - rotted away. You know - I am still pissed at her. I confiscated the shelving unit back and told her too stick to artificial flowers.

So that's the sad story.

Irina

PS - so - to keep your plants alive - you really need some dedicated space for them - where you can keep them warm. If you do not want to keep your whole place warm - may be you can fix them with shoplights and keep them in a bathroom - than the lights will keep them warmer in a small space. I keep mine in a basement in a small room with registers open and the door almost closed - just a crack to keep the air moving - and it is the warmest place in a house.
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Growhappy, I've been reading accounts from several people who have had plants test positive. Based on their experiences (and Irina's) AVs can show symptoms quickly, can take many months to show, or may not show symptoms at all. One plant that tested positive had no symptoms until 9 months after the person had completely cleared a thrips infestation. Others, as Irina noted, have tested plants that showed no symptoms at all, yet the test was positive. As far as I've been able to tell, no one has studied AVs related to INSV so no one knows the specifics of it related to time frame, etc. Sandy, who wrote the recent AV Magazine article about INSV, said that she found changing light and temperature was how she originally found she had a problem. She changed lighting and temperature because she thought it might account for the symptoms she had. Within a week or so of doing that, her plants became much more symptomatic. I found an article that echoed that changing light and temperature sometimes will work to accelerate development of the virus. Sandy suggested that if anyone has a plant about which they are concerned that they should increase the temperature and light. Also, as noted, Epicias can succumb very quickly. There are other "indicator" plants. According to a Colorado Extension article, "Early warning of virus presence also can be noted by using indicator plants or plants that show TSWV/INSV symptoms earlier than others. Such plants include the petunia cultivar 'Calypso' and gloxinias. Both plants are extremely susceptible to both viruses and will show symptoms within a week after infection. Non-sticky blue or yellow cards placed near indicator plants can attract thrips and increase the likelihood that the indicator plants will become infested." See link below for entire article. A Univeristy of Mass article also suggested using an indicator plant. "The petunia cultivars Calypso, Super Blue Magic and Summer Madness have been shown to make good indicator plants for several reasons. First, these varieties are highly attractive to western flower thrips. Secondly, infected petunia plants do not serve as source of virus in the greenhouse because INSV does not become systemic within these petunias. Infected leaves can be picked off and discarded and petunia indicator plants can remain in the greenhouse to continue monitoring. Another reason is that the virus lesions show up very soon after thrips feed. Thrips feeding injury on the foliage leave distinct white feeding scars. If the thrips are carrying INSV, a brown rim and, later, a circular lesion can be seen around the white feeding scars as early as 2-3 days after exposure to thrips." http://www.umass.edu/umext/floriculture/fact_sheets/pest_management/virusind.html Here is a link that might be useful: Colorado Extension Article
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Thank you so much. The plants definitely got smaller after the lower leaves fell so I WILL go to a smaller pot because, like you said, even the previous one was slightly big, but they seemed to do OK. I just never understood how the roots would deal with that. I mean, my plant got smaller because the lower leaves fell, but the roots certainly didn't change, right? However, it appears the consensus is that the pot should be 1/3 of the diameter of the plant (so it's about how big the leaves are, not about the roots). As for blooming again, I read that some AV-s do take a break from blooming, particularly in the summer. I also read that a good plant blooms for 9 months and rests for 3. Maybe these two of mine went through their rest period over the summer. Who knows? I'll go back to doing everything by the book and we'll see what happens. Thank you again!
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violetta1976
Original Author
16 years ago
Oh goodness, I doubt it's 65 in my place. I ordered a temp/humidity thermometer with my most recent order for more Oyama pots. Hopefully it will show up soon so I will know for sure.

Part of the problem is the open floor plan. There isn't really any dedicated space where I can keep them.

The cats are fine... and all the adult plants are doing great... but I have a feeling that the leaves that have been rooting since mid-September are going to die just as they're about to grow babies unless I do something.

Should I keep the leaves dryer than I have been recently? Might that help? I wouldn't mind waiting longer to have babies one bit, I just don't want the leaves to die.
irina_co
16 years ago
Violetta,

you do not want to go much lower than 65. You know - they are from Africa...

Yes - for the leaves - do not let them dry totally - but do not them stay too wet too.

Keep warm!

Irina
violetta1976
Original Author
16 years ago
Aye, Cap'n, will do. Thanks!

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