Apples and crabapples are in the rose family, Rosaceae, in the genus Malus. Crabapples are differentiated from apples based on fruit size. If fruit is two inches in diameter or less, it is termed a crabapple. If the fruit is larger than two inches, it is classified as an apple. taken from link below Here is a link that might be useful: Ohio State fact sheet

Hey guys Thanks for the advice. Several things are working against us though... First, I had divided them up - and there were babies in each clump, and they came apart pretty easy, either way - so my guess is both were planted in clumps, to begin with. Second, Size - Different growing conditions, etc - radical variance in size - And to begin with, all of mine were approx the same size - from several sources, so age vs size is indeterminable. Are there any actual physical characteristics of , say, a single plant, of each? Thanks

That's a bad idea. The catalytic Encore is not the same as the Cat model. You would not get efficient burns and would both go through lots of wood as well as significantly increase your risk of stove overfiring or chimney fires because you would be eliminating any secondary burning opportunities. I would suggest you clean the current combustor and see if that works or get a replacement combustor which is moderately expensive but should give you several years of very efficient stove use and is worth the money for that alone as well as decreasing your risks from unburned smoke and flue gases.

Hi-Kandt, glad to be of help if I can. The touch up thing has me a little confused as to what you're expecting to be able to do in that regards. Basically you are going to have a pigmented paint covered by a clear finish and to complicate things a glaze layer (which should be separated from the paint by a clear sealer which could be CV or vinyl sealer which is also compatible). What I'm saying is you have this multi-layered finish and if you chip it down to bare wood you can't just expect to touch up one small spot without it being noticeable. Maybe on the edge of a door with a small artist brush you could get away with it somewhat. So when the painter says one is easier to repair than the other I'm not sure what he's talking about. A sprayed finish of any kind is always going to show a repair because the texture is different. CCV also referred to sometimes as post-cat. is a harder finish than pre. and to me the touch up would be the same. The BM paint I'm assuming is water-based which is fine but not as hard as a pigmented CV as your color coat. I'm doing several different finishes on sample doors right now and one of them is a water-based Farrow & Ball paint with a clear CV top coat. I can't tell you how durable this is because I'm actually trying to get it to chip so there is something under it to cause that. It's a Chalon finish and really difficult to pull off and have it look naturally aged. For the glazed door I'm doing what I described above which is color CV, rub-through, clear CV, glaze and clear CV top coat. Glazing is a whole other subject and can look great if done well or not. Hard maple will be best for a smooth finish and is less susceptible to dings and dents. Are they being painted on site or in a shop? Are you in LA also? John