You need to manually check the oil pressure with a gauge. Of course you have to find the sending unit to do this, and maybe it'll just be a broken wire or bad sending unit.

I have owned a husqvarna for 4 years, model YTH2454. It has the 2 cyl b&s engine (pressurized oil delivery) and a hydrostatic transmission. 54" cutting deck setup to mulch. The tractor has about 280 hours of use, nearly all mowing but I do have a cart that I use to move grass clippings or small loads of mulch. Since I bought the tractor I have had to replace the transmission three times, 2 spindles, 2 pulleys, too many belts to count and the electronic PTO clutch. I bought the tractor from a dealer, not a big box. I did this so I would not have to deal with a different kid if I had problems. I am glad I did this because I have had nothing but problems since day 1. The first season I replaced the transmission after 4 cuts. Now please take into consideration that I have 2 acres of grass that is almost all hillside. However the husqvarna website and the dealer both said this was the tractor for my yard. The dealer also was familiar with my property because he drove past it everyday to and from his shop. Later that season the transmission was replaced again. From that point on I pressed the dealer to replace the lemon that I bought. I still have the lemon in the shed. The dealer has been great in the customer service realm but not in the replacement category with husqvarna. In the 4 years the dealer has gone through 3 reps at husqvarna! Not one of which has any knowledge of my tractors issues. Not until a few weeks ago when I suggested to the dealer I should retain legal representation against them or husqvarna, (childish I know, but my frustration was boiling over) however a husqvarna rep called me back within the hour. Now all of a sudden my tractor was 4 years old and 2 years out of warranty and he had a detailed history of everything replaced by date and every conversation held with the dealer. Even thought they told me they would keep taking care of the transmission they decided this was it, no more. The worst part about it was the last rep told me "I had probably gotten a Friday tractor" and that husqvarna should replace it, no record of these comments. I did all of the research up front. I read all of the tractor reviews I could find and husqvarna was the comer and was highly recommended. I did not visit any other dealers, big mistake. Very big mistake. After the reviews I went on what the husqvarna site said was the right tractor and what the dealer reinforced. I have visited several other manufacturers dealers in the few years since my purchase and have found that this was the absolutely wrong product for my cutting needs. I found that this tractor is not made for the hills of western Pennsylvania. Nor is it made to handle more than 1 acre of grass per week! Not even close to my conditions. There are a lot of horror stories out there about the wrong purchase when it comes to tractors and lawn equipment in general. Mine is no different than many of these and it is not specific to one manufacturer. They all have them. My next purchase will be a commercial unit with the correct transmission for the hills that I cut. I figure that I just don't have a choice to go with something non commercial. Unless I am fine with dealing with an inferior product from a company that will not support the product correctly from the start nor support the dealer, which I am not willing to do any more then my path is clear. To anyone who reads this post: this is not sour grapes but a warning to make sure you know what you are buying. Caveat Emptor means more today than ever and I wish you the best of luck with your tractor purchase!

I did finally get my tractor running the way it should again. It took a lot of patience and persistence. Once I was consistently shifting between forward and reverse, I put it back together and gave it a try. I wasnÂt sure how fast the axle should be spinning, but while it was on the jack and the wheel was off I did note it was up to about 1 revolution per second. When I tested it with the wheels on the ground, the tractor barely moved. I popped the wheel off and opened the vent again. This time I had more trouble getting the "O" rings out, so I left them in place. The vent still had some play and this seemed to work fine. I let the tractor run on the jack in forward for 10 minutes. The axle revolutions gradually increased to about 60 revolutions in 20 - 25 seconds. This rate didnÂt change after another 5 minutes, so I put it back together. I would HIGHLY RECOMMEND checking the fluid level again at this point (especially if your test route is down hill from your work area). Since my filler cap is under the battery, and a pain to get at, I went for a "quick" test drive first. Initially, my speed was actually faster than it had been for the last five years (since the last time I changed the fluid) and the shifting was also tighter. It had been so long, I had forgotten the tractor had lost a step the last time I changed the transmission fluid. As it turned out my fluid was now low, and I didnÂt make it back to the garage. Topping off the transmission fluid where the tractor now sat, wasnÂt quite enough to get it to move under its own power again. Thankfully I had made it up the steepest part of the lawn before it stopped completely, and I was able to push it the rest of the way back to the pavement where I could jack it up, pull the wheel, loosen the vent, and let it run for another 15 minutes. This time I made sure to check the fluid before going any further. I would also recommend that you avoid over filling your unit. I had a bit of a mess when I popped the cap off this time. Once I replaced most of the fluid that was now on the outside of my transmission, I tested it one more time, reassembled, and it was good. I would say the speed of the tractor is close to what it was when it left the factory and my mowing time was reduced by 25%. Thanks for everyoneÂs help! Armstrr, I hope this gets you back to full speed!

From www.simpletractors.com: Homelite The first Homelites were painted red and reputedly made by a firm called "Brady." Beginning in 1971, Allis-Chalmers produced Homelite tractors at the Lexington, South Carolina plant. The T-10 and T-16 used AC B-Series frames with the seat decks, steering wheels, and pedals from the Simplicity 3300/3400 series. The hood used a 3300/3400 series front, turned upside down. Hitch spacing was different from AC/Simplicity models up until early 1973. The dash/cowl, running boards, and front axles were exclusive to Homelite. The Lexington built T-8Âs were identical to the AC Homesteader series except for using dash and hoods from the bigger Homelite tractors(T-10 through T-16). The FE Series appears to be totally unique. After the 1973 closing of the Lexington plant, Homelite models were made in Port Washington. These later models appear to be nearly identical to Simplicity models of the same time period (except for paint, front grill, and mower decks). AC/Simplicity built Homelites were painted blue with white hoods, most had electric PTOÂs, and all had Briggs engines (although a Kohler powered T-16 has been reported). Textron Corporation had purchased Homelite in 1954. In 1975, Textron purchased Jacobsen, putting an end to Simplicity-built Homelites effective the end of that model year. It appears as if Jacobsen bought tillers and possibly other attachments from Simplicity for a few years. Jacobsen built Homelites were painted red and had Kohler engines. Jacobsen also built Ford garden tractors as well as Minneapolis-Moline, Oliver, and the early White branded models (prior to MTD). So, you could have a Allis/Simplicity/Homelite/Jacobson tractor there. Worth a chance to check out those leads. Cheers!