The N series tractors were designed for farmers to work on using basic tools back in the 30's, 40's, and 50's. They are simple straight-forward easy to work on machines. And the support for them is incredible. If I need help figuring something out I can just ask. The Fergies are the same as the N series. Then comes the 100's series, 6xx, 7xx, and 8xx. Then comes the 1000's series from the 1960's and early 70's. All of them are about the same to work on. If you are not a mechanic type person you mite want to stay away from diesel tractors. The old gas engines are really easy to work on and understand. When I started looking for a tractor I wanted a Ford 3000. That was the only type of tractor I had ever driven. I didn't know anything about the old N series and wasn't considering one. But then one came along that was very affordable. I did some research on it and found out it was a great tractor. So I bought it. And I am glad I did. I love my 8N tractor. If you want a small tractor I would get an 8N tractor. They are easy to find, easy to work on, and very reliable. You can get an N tractor for $2000 to $3000 depending on the shape it is in and the attachments that come with it. There a few downsides to an N tractor. No live hydraulics and no live PTO. You can add live hydraulics but I have hardly missed having it. Also, you can get a front end loader for an N tractor, but it wasn't really designed for a loader. A FEL makes it hard to steer since it doesn't have power steering. You can add power steering. It causes extra wear on the front end because of the all the extra weight. A FEL makes it hard to get on/off the tractor. An N tractor won't pull a 3pt tiller. The tractor won't go slow enough for the tiller to work. It is geared to high. An N tractor won't pull real heavy implements. And it doesn't do round bales very well (too heavy). The horsepower is low for a tractor, about 28hp at the engine, 23hp at the drawbar. I have been using my 8n since January and haven't had any problems with it. It does all I need to do, mostly mowing. I can plow with it, and I moved some dirt with it. I love my 8N tractor. Pooh Bear

The company I work for has fleet of I/C powered forklifts. In 1989 & '90, we switched from diesel engines to LPG fueled engines (which are gasoline engines converted to propane). A few years later, the company selected a "test group" of forklifts to run in an extended oil change evaluation. The test was conducted in alliance with an "oil testing laboratory". The lab had to agree to use the same test procedure on "our" oil samples for the duration of the test. We did not know how long we would be testing. Our previous oil change interval was "Every 750 hours" (using the OEM hourmeter). This interval was in place when we ran diesel and gasoline powered I/C 'lifts. We wanted to determine how long we could safely run the oil between changes without harming the engine. The guidelines for the test were pretty simple on our part, the forklifts in the test group would not have their oil changed "Until further notice". Instead, we were only to "top off" the oil level when we drew an oil sample for the lab every 750 hours. Our 'lifts operate 24/7 with an average daily run time of 18 hours per 'lift, so we were pulling an oil sample about every 6 weeks (where this would have been an "oil change" prior to the test). The lab reported the test results of each sample to our corporate headqurters. Corporate only told us whether or not, to continue the testing of each 'lift, based on the report. At about 20 months into the test, we submitted a sample to the lab that had 10,000 (ten thousand) hours on it. Corporate headqurters informed us at that time to remove that 'lift from the test and change the oil based on the lab report that the oil "was degrading" and it's continued use was not recommended. We were instructed place the unit on a "tentative" 3000 hour oil change interval until the testing was ended on all 'lifts. By 24 months since the onset of the test, the oil in all the 'lifts had reached the 10,000 hour mark. The lab reports on a 10,000 hour old sample was very near the same for all 'lifts. The company ordered each 'lift that was part of the test to be placed on the same "tentative" 3000 hour oil change interval until further notice. It took the company almost a year from the end date of the testing to make all the changes to the inspection forms (for our PMs) and put the new standard of 3000 hours between oil and filter changes into effect. Our 'lifts remain in service at the "large distribution centers" for about 6 years (from the "new vehicle in service" date) at which time they will have accumulated from about 30,000 to 36,000 hours. At that time they are transferred out to "small town" locations where they may only get 2 to 4 hours run time per day. On these 'lifts we change the oil annually by the calender instead of going by the hourmeter. When a 'lift reaches 12 years old, it is sold on the public market. We have yet to "wear out" an engine. In fact, the only engine failure our location has had was due to the forklift operator continuing to run the 'lift after the water pump/alternator belt broke. We periodically check compression on our engines (24 month intervals) and I see engines near the 36,000 hour mark with 160 to 170 P.S.I. readings on all cylinders. Each owner of any equipment must decide what kind of oil change interval they want to use for their machines. I think it is safe to say that most of us can change the oil in our L&G equipment annually without worrying "if I'm doing it enough". I prefer to change the oil at the end of the season. I don't want that "contaminated" oil just sitting there in contact with the works of the engine for 6 months. I drop the oil (and filter where applicable), put in the fresh oil and run the engine for about 10 minutes (to make sure I get the oil "hot", gets rid of the moisture from the cold start up) before putting the machine away for the "off season". I feel that the fresh oil clings better to the engine parts than the old oil for the duration of storage. No matter what the "Oil experts" may say, some of us will continue with our own practices. For the people who lament that we are changing the oil "too often", well......there are some people out there who "never change their oil", so don't their habits offset the overall consumption average??

I did see this! And yes, I still LOVE it five years later. We still haven't begun the 2nd-floor bathroom, aka the 1925 Hall Bath/Faux Master which is our only bathroom on the bedroom level with a clawfoot tub & a shower ring. So the Starting From Dirt Basement Bathroom is still my favorite place to shower. So here's how to do the Starting From Dirt Basement Bath set up: Hansgrohe Ibox rough in Shower & tub fixtures - Hansgrohe Rain S Showerhead & hand shower S Thermostatic Trim with Volume Control and Diverter (tub to shower) Kohler HydroRail Shower Column and Diverter (showerhead to hand shower) Metris S tub filler The Tub Filler & Hydrorail are tied together at the Ibox by the diverter on the shower trim, the two showerheads switch between each other on the Hydorail. Run it all by your plumber - I don't know if all these parts (especially the hydrorail) are still available! Good luck! Also, here's a link to Part 2 of the Adventure: https://tinyurl.com/ydntvkzc

Service up grades in most States require the homeowner to be responsible from the weather head down. When considering upgrades it is better to remove any splicing in attics, crawl spaces and any other place that those splice may be located at. A splice is a weak link in the wiring and with the amperage involved it is not a good idea ever to splice. Electrical power will always take the least resistance to ground if properly grounded with a 8' ground rod or rods. When updating the Meter Base and Main Breaker panel consider whole house surge protection to be placed into the 1st Main Breaker panel not out laying subpanels. Also consider ATS (automatic transfer switch) for auto start fueled generators and alternative electrical energy like solar and wind. The ATS will not backfeed utility grid power when it goes down from fault due to storms or other grid issues. But the ATS will feed onsite requirements as designed to do so or until the grid power comes back on and then the ATS once again does its job and shuts the generator cycle down. There are grid quality off the shelf products in today's market from various vendors that are designed to be mixed and matched (battery banking, inverter power, solar, wind) to form your own grid quality electrical power. So as for the cost of what it takes to upgrade a electrical service what are your onsite wattage needs and voltages? Along with a host of other considerations to account for. Alternative electrical power is an investment that pays for itself and is safe, reliable and efficient. the old days are gone when you had to wait 10 seconds for the fueled auto start generator to kick in. High end grid quality inverter power now is so fast that clock or computer resets from electrical power transfers is not necessary. www.dbelectric.us