My old 1855MF is a large GT and would do all of what you're needing. I've got a FEL,back-hoe,brush hog, tiller,box blade, and etc for it. I've used it for everything you can imagine. Look on ebay for a 445-455 JD or something like that, might even find one with attachments you'll need. The older real garden tractors are some tough little machines and all kinds of attachments are still available for them. A 4 wh dr sub-compact would be good too and I see some good deals on ebay on them. A new large garden tractor is about the same price as a sub-compact.

Hillfarm,

The Simplicity Legacy LX is a subcut. It would definately handle the tasks you list, as would the Prestige. Don't be deceived by looks on a web site. Go to a dealer first. Simplicity's are well built, tough machines.

Since you have been reading posts here, I suggest you search for Slammer's rules on buying as your first step. Then take a trip to several dealers, tell them what you need the tractor to do and test drive their suggestions.

Simplicity, John Deere, Kubota are all excellent manufacturers.

Enjoy the journey.
eal51 in wetsern Connecticut

A small Kubota BX sounds perfect for you. A small tractor with a big attitude. And with the 3ph and hydraulics it will be versatile to any future needs, such as a loader, backhoe, or any standard 3ph attachments.

I'd be looking at a subcut. Kubota BX, John Deere 2305, New holland Tz's, Massey 2300. The Simplcity Legacy XL is good as well, although not quite as heavily made as the rest. It is the best mower of the bunch though. Lot's of choices in this group. Most can be had for 10k or less, that is until you start adding backhoes and loaders to them. A tiller can be had for 1k.

A Legacy XL, 1st generation JD X Series or the 445/455, and Kubota GR would work for what you want. However I think you would be better served over the long term by a sub cut like the BX Series or a JD 2210 or 2305. I think the perfect tractor for you would be the JD 2520, but more than you want to spend. The main difference is the garden tractors can do what you want to do but the subcuts were designed to do what you want them to do. Test drive and see how each feels-

Thanks for the quick replies all. Amazing. You all are great. Helpful info and model recommendations. I'm motivated to now go visit some dealers with a little more confidence.

Just to be clear, folks who are recommending the subcuts think that they are lightweight and agile enough to trim a lawn with a general purpose tire that would be good in the fields, too?

ps. One more dumb question. Many folks, including Slammer, have emphasized test drives. How the heck would I test drive a tractor? The farm supply shops around here are located along highways or in towns. Do you all just mean looping it in the parking lot?

hillfarm,

The sub-CUT class is a good compromise between a L&G tractor and a full-size CUT. They have all the hydraulics of the larger class, albeit slower, and in many cases more power (power to weight ratio), and yet still have enough frame heft and weight to get the job done. They also are great mowing machines. I personally have a JD2210 (now replaced by the 2305) and haven't found a task it couldn't handle. I have turf tires on this tractor, and they are good up until you are in a lot of mud. If that is a potential problem, go for R4 industrial tires. They are a good compromise between easy on the lawn and good in the messy stuff. They are also more resistant to flats.

As for test driving the tractors. Go to the different dealers, speak to the salesmen and tell them your needs. Listen to their advice (remember it may be skewed towards items on the lot or special incentives), and test drive a range of tractors on the lot. Consider if the dealership is somewhere you would want to service your tractor, or how you think they might act going to bat for a warranty or non-warranty issue. Think a lot about tractor ergonomics, as you will be living with this choice for conceivably some time.

When you have narrowed your choice of tractors and dealers, and are serious, ask the front runners to bring their tractors out to your property to demo.

Happy hunting!

Cheers

JDFANATIC

Here's what caught my eye in your post.

You intend to begin with two acres and intend to double that if things work out.

You want a machine that will till (not rototill) the rows of plants.

You want a machine that will pull various items.

You also want a machine that will mow grass.

You want to spend as little as possible, for the moment.

Based upon your wording, here are my thoughts.

The grass cutting is a minor issue because it is only one acre. Any lawn tractor with a 44" mower deck is capable of looking after that chore. For less than 2 grand, you can own a brand new John Deere L series, as recommended by Consumer Reports. One of these, will last you for at least ten years, if looked after properly.

To me, the balance of your chores are best suited to a full size tractor but of the "Row Crop" variety. I would be looking around for a good used row cropper in the 40 to 45 hp range and I would trade in that International at the same time.

You need to figure out what your ideal plant spacing is going to be because tire size is going to play a big part here. Very skinny tires are available for these tractors and the axles/wheels are set up for infinite wheel spacings both front and back. If your budget will allow for 4 wheel drive, all the better. Light tractors with skinny wheels need all the tractive power they can find.

I would be looking for a machine that has around 2000 or so hours on it and is equipped with auxilliary hydraulics and a good CAT 1 three-point hitch, preferably with draft control.

Then I would be looking for a two or three furrow plow that is SIZED to that tractor plus a spring-tooth harrow set up for your operation, a five foot Bush Hog mower to look after mowing fields and any other attachments that you feel necessary.

If you buy a tractor that is too small, it will take you too long to do the work. Time is money. Time is an important factor in your life. This should be about buying the right tractor for the job, RIGHT NOW. Decent used farm machinery often holds its value if you care for it properly. That means changing oil, filters and greasing it plus keeping it out of the weather whenever it is not in use.

If I were in your shoes, I would be spending as much time as possible talking to local farmers and salesmen at dealerships. They know the soil you want to work, the best. They have the experience about the best choice of equipment. Good dealers sell you the RIGHT equipment if you give them the right information. They want you to be happy so that you will come back. The rest of the equation has to do with what your budget will allow for and how fast you want to acquire it. Local farm auctions sometimes yield bargains but if you don't educate yourself first, you won't know if it's a bargain or not.

First you need to determine what tractor hp and setup will work best for your needs. Most dealers can tell you that. Once you have that information, then the internet or the dealers can tell you about brands, model numbers, set-ups, fair market values with respect to "hours" on a machine and so on. The same holds true for attachments. If you don't know that a new five foot Bush Hog sells for and what to look for in a used one, then you are flying by the seat of your pants.

I don't see any way around having two machines. Having a dedicated lawn mower just makes sense. It's small enough to go around all those obstacles you spoke about and will not damage your lawn. The lawn tractor is always ready, willing and able to cut your grass, the second you start it up. No fooling around with putting a belly mower onto the larger tractor. Even 3 pt finishing mowers are a compromise because they don't get into tight areas and that means you have to come back with a push mower to cut those "missed" areas.

You have plenty of time during the winter to talk to locals and I strongly suggest you do so. I think you will be surprised by the amount and type of information that is there for the taking.
Good luck.

I have a JD X485 which is classified as a Heavy Duty Garden Tractor by John Deere. I have about 4 acres to mow and maintain. It is a great machine. There has not been one project that I have attempted with this machine that it couldn't handle. I have a Johnny Bucket Loader, 62" MMM, wheel weights, and four 42 lb suitcase weights for ballast. The engine is a Kawasaki 25 H.P. Fuel Injected Gas - plenty of power for me. To me it is the equal of some sub-compacts.

"It seems to me that there should be a GT that can adequately pull a tiller AND cut my yard. Moreover, with anticipated rows of brambles, trees, and trellised vines in my future, I figured that a narrow GT might allow me to plant more narrowly..."

For small and rugged garden tractors consider a Toro Wheelhorse
Classic. You are in Massachusetts. Up in Portland ME somebody
recently bought Ingersoll. They make a very capable GT which you can check out at www.ingersoll-inc.com.

hardscrabble and ervie,

No question that a Deere X485 or an Ingersoll 4020PS are great GT's but it seems to me from what the OP wrote, he is intending to "farm" his land. Neither of these tractors were ever designed as a farm tractor.

Maybe I'm totally off-base here but I think that one of the major issues is that of ground clearance. A 5105 JD with 2 wheel drive has about 18" of clearance under the front axle. The 4WD model has about 14". How much clearance can one get from an X485 or 4020? Six inches maybe?

So, if you are trying to cultivate between the rows of plants, you have to straddle one of those rows while keeping your skinny tires between the rows. A properly set up utility tractor can do this very easily while pulling an eight foot wide spring tooth cultivator that could make eight rows weed-free in a single pass.

With 50 diesel hp and 45hp at the PTO, a 5103 or 5105 will carry out all the tasks the OP wants from a tractor but he should still have a low cost LT to take care of his lawn. I point to the 5103 and 5105 as examples of the size and style of machine that seems most appropriate. There are other brands out there that produce similar machines.

Even an old Farmall from the fifties would outperform the Ingersoll or the X series JD when it comes to actual farm chores. Neither of those tractors were ever designed to spend the bulk of their working hours in a cultivated field. The OP needs a serious tractor equipped with a Cat 1 three-point hitch. While I personally admire both of the units suggested by you guys, those "tractors" were designed first and foremost to cut grass and blow snow.

ervie: I'm going to have to agree with castoff. If your going to grow row crops you need a tractor designed for that purpose. A large GT even if is a narrow frame is going to giveyou much wasted space between rows. I don't understand why you can't use your International at this stage until you decide this is going to become a permanent venture. There are plenty of used attachments for this tractor available especially on ebay. You could cultivate, till, spread and haul with this tractor and buy something smaller for mowing. I know you said money is also important. If you are not happy with the International then look for something used that fits your need. Remember old is not necessarily bad and you will only be cultivating a maximum of 4 acres. Older tractors such as the Oliver 60 were designed for row cropping with their narrow front end and adjustable rear wheel track. Their are plenty of tractors in this category still out there with plenty of life in them.

An older row crop has limitations, especially depending upon what you plan to grow. You'd be surprized how quickly corn, and even beans, can become too tall for the tractor's ground clearance.

Besides, if you read his post again, he already has an older utility tractor to break and prepare the ground. What he is wanting is a machine that will pull a tiller between his rows (I'm guessing rototiller, contrary to castoff's conclusion), mow his lawn, haul loose materials...

My neighbor used a White GT1850 with a towed, self-powered tiller (36"?) to tend his rather large garden, and to mow his lawn. I can't personally recommend that model because I don't believe it to be that heavy a machine. However, it did work well enough for him, an older gentleman, until he was no longer physically able to do it.

You don't mention if you'll need a FEL, but once you have one, you'll wonder how you got along without one. If so, and if you don't mind unsing a rear-mount finishing mower, I'd look at Ingersoll 7020. Beast of a machine that comes with a loader, 3pt (cat 0), PS, and 4WD. Also accepts most Ingersoll attachments. The major issue there is $$.

A less expensive, but still not cheap, alternative would be their 6020. Same machine as the 7020, except no 4WD.

Some of the older GTs mentioned should be able to do what you ask. Keep in mind that you'll probably want to stay as narrow as possible. That kind of eliminates the JD 400 & 500 series, which appear to me to be wider than most other manufacturer's GTs.

Another consideration might be, how difficult is it to remove/install the mower deck? Again, to keep the machine as narrow as possible, not mention some GTs may not be able to have both attachments mounted simultaneously, you may have to do this repeatedly. Gets old real fast if said task is a PITA. (Kind of a + for the Ingersoll.)

Now it is possible to tend a large garden using a larger tractor. Guy around the corner uses a newer MF utility (not certain of the model, but my guess is smallest 2000? series) to do just that. Keep in mind that his rows gotta be at least 5', if not 6', apart, but his garden always looks great.

Here is a link that might be useful: Ingersoll

Last year I found a new row crop tractor with an air-cooled
rear engine. It was a tall open tubular frame design giving the
driver a very good view of the crops below. I think it was
named for a town in Wisconsin, but I can't remember which town.
Can somebody remember it? I think it cost about $14k.

Is this the one you're thinking of:

Here is a link that might be useful: Saukville Tractor

What we really need at this point, is further input from the OP to put an end to the speculative issues. Does he mean tilling or rototilling? Does he intend to space his plantings on three foot centers or six foot centers?

These things dictate the choice of tractor.

While the Saukville unit might be an option, it certainly isn't inexpensive. This Deere is in the same price bracket. Everyone knows that Team Green isn't likely to go out of business any time soon. Parts, service and resale values are not in question.

That aside, the JD has greater weight (1300 lbs more) and almost double the HP. It also has a 540 rpm mechanical PTO that the Saukville is missing. While I haven't even checked this, I bet that the FEL for the Deere will outperform the one for the Saukville.

In order to rototill or mow grass, you are locked into buying the Saukville's hydraulic tiller and mower deck. One would have to add up the costs of everything needed for each type of tractor and then apply the other factors. Those other factors have to do with what I have already mentioned regarding parts, service, resale, tractor weight, horsepower, PTO, lifting power of the 3 point, FEL statistics etc. etc.

I'm not saying that the Saukville won't do the job. To me, it's all about the bang for the buck and the total cost is what determines that.

But all of this is just idle chit-chat until the OP comes back and expands on his actual needs.

In the meantime, you guys can look at the specs for the JD tractor below and compare them to the Saukville.

MANUFACTURER
MODEL John Deere
5103
Official Test
Nebraska Test Number Nebr. OECD 1870 (March 2006)

Engine
Manufacturer John Deere

Aspiration Natural

Cylinders/Displacement, cu. in. (liters) 3/179 (2.9)

Cylinder Liners Wet

Fuel Tank Cap., US Gal. (L) (Open; Cab) ---

Standard 19.0 (72.0)

Optional ---

Underhood muffler Yes

Performance
Advertised PTO HP (kW) @ Rated RPM 42 (31.32) @ 2400

Official PTO HP (kW) @ Rated RPM 43.7 (32.59) @ 2399

@ Standard PTO @ Eng RPM ---

Maximum @ Eng RPM 46.45 (34.64) @ 2150

Advertised Engine HP (kW) @ Rated Speed 50 (37.29) @ 2400

Max Unballast Drwbr HP (kW) @ Eng RPM ---

Maximum Torque (PTO) @ RPM, lb-ft (Nm) 133 (180) @ 1351

Max Torque Rise (80% Rtd Spd) @ Eng RPM 26% @ 1901

Maximum Torque Rise % (PTO) @ Eng RPM 38.9% @ 1351

Fuel Use, U.S. gal./hr. & HP hr./gal. at:
PTO @ Rated Eng RPM 2.94 (11.13) & 14.87 (2.93) @ 2399

Standard PTO Speed @ Eng Speed ---

Maximum PTO Power @ Eng RPM 2.85 (10.78) & 16.32 (3.21) @ 2150

Maximum Engine Power @ Eng RPM 2.94 (11.13) & 14.87 (2.93) @ 2399

Max Unballasted Drawbar Power @ Eng RPM ---

75% Load, Full Engine RPM (Unballasted) ---

75% Load @ Reduced RPM (Unballasted) ---

Transmission
Std. Transmission; Forward/Reverse 9F/3R Collar Shift

Opt. Transmission; Forward/Reverse ---

Reverser No

On-the-Go Shifting (Yes/No/Partial) No

Clutch; Wet/Dry Dry

Creeper ---

Power Take-Off (PTO)
Standard Independent 540

Optional ---

PTO Speeds @ Engine RPM 540 @ 2376

PTO Actuation Mechanical (lever)

Hydraulics
Type Open Center

Pump Rated Output, GPM (L/min.) ---

Standard 17.8 (67.2)

Optional ---

Rated Flow @ One SCV, GPM (L/min.) 11.0 (41.5)

Max Output @ SCV Couplers, GPM (L/min.) ---

Maximum Operating Pressure, PSI (kPa) 2,828 (19,498)

Maximum Hydraulic Power, HP (kW) 17.6 (13.1)

Hitch Draft Control Load Sense Type Mechanical

Remote Control Valves Available 1 (2 opt.)

Hitch Category (SAE Designation) 2

Hitch Lift Cap. lb. (kg) @24"Bhnd Lift Pt. ---

Standard 5,067 (2298)

Optional ---

Sensing Type Top Link

Joystick SCV Control Optional

Final Drive
Type Planetary

Differential Controls Mechanical (Pedal)

Availability ---

Front No

Front & Rear No

Engage On-the-Go Rear Differential Lock Yes

Axle Type Flanged

Brakes, Type and Control Mechanical Wet Disc

Operator Station
Rollover Protective Structure, OOS ---

Rigid - Foldable - Telescopic Foldable, 2-Post

Platform - Flat/Straddle Straddle

Gearshift Location - Console/Floor Floor

Cab ---

Doors ---

Platform - Flat/Straddle ---

dB(A) Rating ---

Seat Suspension System ---

2WD Dimensions
Wheelbase, in. (mm) 80.3 (2040)

Front Tread Range, in. (mm) 56.3 - 80.7 (1430 - 2050)

Rear Tread Range, in. (mm) 55.7 - 71.5 (1415 - 1815)

Minimum Rear Tread Setting, in. (mm) 71.5 (1815)

Front Axle Clearance, in. (mm) 18.0 (457)

Turning Radius w/Brakes, ft. (m) 9.7 (2.95)

Turning Radius w/o Brakes, ft. (m) 11.3 (3.44)

Unballasted Operating Weight, lb. (kg) 4,715 (2139)

Approx. Ship Wgt, lb. (kg) Open; Cab 3,850 (1746); ---


Standard Tires
2WD ---

Front 7.5 - 16

Rear 13.6 - 28

The original post said he was using his International for heavy field work so assuming tilling means rototilling I would think any premium GT would get the other jobs done. Might look at a used Deere 318/322/332 also.

[Sorry, I took so long to reply. This is the original poster. For some reason, my attempt to posts have been continually rejected for the last 24 hours. Crossing fingers. Another try with a new account, new browser, new IP address...]

I think castoff and ctpuritan have a good point. I DO want to actually farm this land. To be honest, I hadn't thought about the problem of pulling a cultivator over row crops because I've been mostly concerned with the fruits that I'll be planting -- where these devices aren't applicable. So, point well taken. On the other hand, I'm talking about only an acre of row crops where a cultivator might be appropriate (mostly annual flowers - no veggies). A wheel hoe and/or sprays may be all I need. And most flowers will quickly grow too tall for any tractor-over-crop work, I think. Still, lacking experience, I should probably plan for more equipment flexibility than I think I need.

From the suggestions here, it seems like I should save my money in the near term and purchase a relatively cheap riding mower. I'll use my International until row spacing becomes an issue and, importantly, I better understand what I really need.

While I could probably grow what I wanted with a good GT, I would have troubles with weeding and harrowing in particular, I might lack flexibility and power for future work, and the good GTs are pretty expensive anyway.

So, to clarify since my last post. No veggies, but up to an acre of flowers. (Saukville looks unattractive to me because it's odd, no local dealers, expensive, and less flexible than a normal tractor. Looks good if I were a veggie farmer.) Orchard/vineyard/small fruit on 3+ acres in the future. Starting with 1+. When I said till, I meant pull a rototiller between rows of perenials (fruit bushes, grape vines, trees) for growing cover crops between rows and preparing beds for annuals (again, flowers). A FEL may be good to have for greenhouse and other chores. Lawn is irregular 1 acre w/ obstacles.
Regarding spacings: it depends on my machinery, but I would like to consider six foot spacings between fruit crop rows. Typical recommendations are for 8 or 10 foot spacings to accommodate machinery and growth of plants into row spaces.

Is this the one you're thinking of:

Here is a link that might be useful: Saukville Tractor

Yes, thanks DBEAR.

Consider an older model Ford tractor such as an 8N of newer. These tractors are readily available. Some have been completely rebuilt and will give many years of further service. I would be reluctant to purchase one older than a 1951 and make sure it has a live lift. Some did not. My preference is a 1963 2000 model. It is the last year they made the four cylinder gasoline engine with overhead valves, and it has a live lift, but not live PTO. If you purchase a nice one, you can use it trouble free for a number of years and sell it for more than you paid for it.

I don't think you need to replace you IH utility tractor. That is if it has power steering, and live hydralics and is in good shape. These were good tractors with a substantial frame and transmission housing. As pointed out, you should be able to find all the attachments you need. What model is it?
The wheel spacing on these tractors can be varied by playing around with the rim mountings.

Your plan to access your needs as you go is good. You don't want to waste money initially.

{{gwi:356995}}

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A JD Heavy Duty Garden Tractor is plenty for one acre of flowers. I grow a few thousand christmas trees and a garden. My garden gets plowed with an old farm tractor and I use the big garden tractor to till with. I'm 100% organic so the tiller is a real life saver. I use a laser beam and tape measure when planting to insure that my tractor will fit between the rows. The JD tiller attachment is adjustable and that helps some in the garden as the crops grow. The back blade does a fine job of leveling out the end plow furrow. JD has a single bottom plow for it but I've not tried it yet.

Here is a pic that shows the difference between a heavy duty and a regular garden tractor... X485/345.
{{gwi:357467}}

3pt is an add on option. Dealer would install it for me but I was in a hurry. Not my first JD accessory package so I weren't scairt. Hand wrenches and snap ring pliers... seems I did some tapping with a hammer. Had it installed in less then two beers.
{{gwi:357468}}

Iv'e sat back and watched all the posts so far and most folks have shoved Hillfarms budget of $7k to $10k aside and suggested options that are twice as expensive. Sure you can buy an X485 for $10,000(with tax)but when you price out the rest of the attachments your way way over her budget. Subcuts are even pricier. Are folks saying you can't farm two acres without spending $20,000. I don't buy this. I have a friend who grows 2 acres of vegetables every year with an old Massey Harris tractor and a Troy Bilt Horse. I'm not suggesting Hillfarm do this. But I am suggesting she can get started in her venture for less than $10k and if sucessful plow her profits into a bigger operation when that happens. Folks with lots of disposable income and no budgetlimitations may think otherwise.

ctpuritan -

You can get a low hour, (under 100 hours is low to me) X485 for under $7K. I agree with you, everything can be started for less than $10K. Is it the best way? Maybe, maybe not. That is the ultimate decision of the buyer. Here in lies the beauty of this forum, lots of different opnions that may excercise the mind to see options and choices that may not have been visible before.

hill farm

I'd check out both new and old Cub Cadet 2500 and 3000 series garden tractors.
I got a new GT 2554 last October with 54'' mower, front blade, tiller and AG tires.
Only $5050.oo for the whole package.

The bar tires on the CC and my BX23 S-Cut are not a problem on my yard.
I don't see lawn damage from ag tires as an issue on these smaller tractors.

Farmall DXE series if you want a new tractor. Farmall is one of the most rugged tractors out there IMHO. These compact utilities will do it all. My neighbor has one and I love it.

Personally, I'd be looking at an older Farmall or an I-H.

(I know, this coming from a Deere owner.)

Now as a row cropper, nothings as beautiful to me as a JD 620 with row crop shielding...