I grew violets in a South facing window for years with no problem. Just make sure that the violet is far enough away from the window so that it doesn't get excess heat in the summer. Across the room will be too far away. If you want to locate your plant across the room, position a spiral fluorescent bulb in a desklamp to give it adequate light during the day. Master the watering of your plant before trying any fertilizer. I've had good success with various African Violet fertilizers, with or without urea. Just a touch will do you ... Other tips ... Over-watering is the number 1 killer of African Violets. Never let your Violet become waterlogged. Make sure that the pot has adequate drainage (holes) so that excess water can be discarded. Only water when the soil has become dry to the touch. Don't OVERPOT your plant. Violets BLOOM and grow better when their in pots no more than 1/3 of their foliage diameter. That's usually a 4" diameter pot, at most. If your violet is 6" across, it needs no more than a 2" diameter pot. Anything more, and it will spend months trying to fill the pot with roots INSTEAD OF BLOOMING. Lighten the consistency of your soil by mixing it with a like amount of perlite. Violets prefer a light, airy soil. Perlite will lighten it up.

As far as I know there are no glittering edges like those in daylilies, but lots do have wonderful green edges and also white edges. Many have what I would call *diamond dusting* as in dayliles with sparkles on the petals that glimmer in sunshine. (Check out the Rebel's Astro Spinner bloom image in the gallery). Also, I find that AV blooms with heavily ruffled edges tend not to open fully and at times even properly. Heavily ruffled blooms in daylilies often pose the same problems when grown in areas that have cooler temperatures. Joan in SK

Congratulations, you have a project plant!! With some time, some supplies, and patience, you should be able to rejuvenate your plant. First of all, there are some things you will need to purchase if you don't already have, so here is your shopping list: 3 ounce solo cups small bag of peat moss OR small bag of commercially prepared african violet potting mix small bag of perlite small bag of coarse vermiculite any brand of African violet fertilizer with less than 10% urea content nice to have-an exacto type knife Okay, lets make a proper potting mix for your new violets. Using the peat moss, or the AV mix, measure equal amounts of peat/AV mix, perlite, and vermiculite and mix together. Add enough water so the mix is damp but not sopping wet. A handful squeezed together should hold its shape but crumble apart if poked. Set this mixture aside. (This is the famous 1-1-1 mix you will see referenced here so many times!) There are many separate 'crowns' on your plant. These are basically suckers that have pretty much matured. If you think of the leaf pattern of the plant as a rosette, you can tell separate rosettes by this pattern; a leaf facing the wrong way probably belongs to another crown. You will need to divide these crowns and pot them separately. The easiest way to do this is to take the plant out of it's current pot. Do this a day or two after you have watered it, so that it isn't bone dry or soaking wet. Put a dinner plate near your work area with warm water in it. This will be where you place the separated plants so the roots don't dry out. If you can, squeeze the pot sides all around, and push up gently from the bottom, working the plant out of the pot. Once you have the plant out of the pot, gently remove as much of the soil from the root ball as you can. I use two sizes of forks when I do this, a regular size and then a small pickle fork. Sometimes you can just gently work it off with your fingers. You will probably break off some leaves as you work - don't fret, think of them as opportunities. Once you have most of the soil removed, start looking for the separate plant crowns, and then cut them apart. Gently work them apart; the fuzzy leaves like to 'hold on' to one another. Some of them may have their own roots, and that's good. As you separate them, just lay them in the warm water if they have roots; if they don't have roots you can just set them aside. A word on 'suckers', they generally appear as sideshoots in the axil of the leaf, that is the 'angle' where the leaf is attached to the stem of the plant. There will be suckers that are too small to try to save and pot up. You can use a blunt pencil to remove these smaller ones, just push it to one side with the pencil. As you work, you probably can see there is a 'main' plant, which is the original plant before the buddies moved into the neighborhood. After you have all the crowns separated, and all the suckers removed, you are almost ready to pot up everything. Remove any leaves that are deformed, dying, undersized, etc. Now let's pot! The general rule of thumb for the correct pot size is this: the pot should be one third of the leaf spread. Measure the spread of the leaves from leaf tip to leaf tip. Divide that number by 3. The answer is the size in inches of the pot. For example, if you have a violet that measured 12 inches across, you would put it into a pot that measured 4 inches across. I don't think you are going to have anything very large left here, so we will use the 3 ounce solo cups, which are about 2 inches across. Better to 'underpot' than 'overpot'. The cups need drainage holes; I use an electric drill, and drill through the bottom of a stack of cups. Some people just cut off a slice at the bottom edge. Starting with the main plant, scrape the stem like you would a carrot, to remove any leaf stubs, and the dry 'callous' covering. This is where new roots will form. Remove as much of the root ball and stem as you need to be able to put the plant in the cup. I actually put the cup next to the root ball/stem to measure how much I need to cut off to have it fit in the cup. You may end up with just a stem and no roots, that's okay. Just put the mix in the cup, use a pencil to make a hole in the mix the same size as the stem, and place the stem in the hole. Avoid packing the mix down, but you can gently firm it a little bit. Do this with your other crowns also. Give each pot a very small sip of water and add more soil if needed. The stem of the plant should be completely buried in the mix. If you feel you want to have a gazillion of these plants, and for 'insurance' pot up some of the leaves that are in good condition. Slice the leaf stem 1 to 1 1/2 inch long at a diagonal left to right if the leaf head is on your left. Poke a hole in the soil mix, and place in the mix until the leaf barely touches the soil. The newly potted plants and leaves are now ready for a home with bright light and humidity. You can provide humidity a number of different ways...a seed flat with a clear dome, a cake tray with a clear cover, a rotisserie chicken container, a deli container, any thing that has a clear cover and is taller than the plants. A plastic bag works okay too as long as it is held off the plant and sealed. Place the plants in the container, cover, and set in bright light. DO NOT PUT THEM IN THE SUN unless you want to cook them. After 5-7 days, check to make sure the soil hasn't dried out, if so, water lightly. You want to keep the soil just barely damp, not wet. The new roots should form in 2-3 weeks, after which you can 'wean' them by gradually reducing the humidity a little every few days. Please take pictures in progress, we love pictures. Good luck! Others have probably already answered this in the 90 minutes since I started this! Barbara

Hi Judy, From Lyndon Lyon's, or LLG, I get consistently large plants, often in bloom, in 2 1/2 in square pots in a good potting mix that does not have to be changed for at least six months. They come with plastic stakes that have the plant name printed on them so I can move them when I repot. The plants grow rapidly and do not sucker. The company has excellent customer service and ships promptly. For me, it is worth it to pay slightly more to get consistently larger, premium quality plants. For all the trouble of ordering live plant material across country, I want to get the best I can for my money. They have good quality control and accurately label the plants. They are my first choice. I only go elsewhere if there is something I want that they don't carry. They also keep their web catalogue updated, so if they are out of stock, they won't list the item. So, no surprises and no substitutions. They usually have enough of a particular type to choose from. For example, they will offer five different reds or five different whites or more. Their own hybrids are exceptional, vigorous and strong. I primarily raise Lyon 's own hybrids. They also have a wide selection of many other hybridizers. They are a large enough company to be able to introduce new hybridizers. They first opened up the Russian market and offer a wide range. They seem to pick the best choices of other hybridizers, so if they offer a plant , I feel it has been preselected for good performance. If something is new in the plant world, chances are they developed it. They are consistent in what they offer, it is usually possible to find the same plant year after year, plus new ones. I like to be a loyal customer and give them my business. They have been at this for sixty years, I appreciate they are still in this business. I feel they are excellent, so why not do business with them? When I place an order with them, I already know what to expect, so I can safely order a dozen. But they will accept an order of any size. When I want to try out a new grower, I place a small order. Usually, about four. Joanne This post was edited by fortyseven on Tue, Aug 12, 14 at 10:56