Frank
I think your biggest problem will be the full sun. I think the tree will struggle with leaf burn...badly.

Also these trees don't like to be transplanted. So once you chose a site don't move it. If you don't have a shaded site ( i know the 10 gallon didn't come cheap

garp1: ....

Thanks for getting back to me with the somewhat disheartening advice against planting the Stewartia in a mostly, full-sun location.

Yes, the patio is in full-sun, but only in early-morning, however, it does get some shade from late-morning until about 3:00PM. The roof-line of my house throws a shadow onto the porch, and then, as the sun swings around in late afternoon, the porch gets hit with sun again, until dusk. I should have been a little more specific, regarding the lighting conditions on my front porch, in my earlier post. However, I doubt that this changes anything ... or, does it? Well, I asked for some practical advice, and, I got it ... and, I'm glad. What fooled me was that this tree was growing in a full-sun exposure at the nursery, so I figured that this will grow just as well on my front porch. Now, I know better.

You're right when you guessed that this tree didn't come cheap. It lightened my wallet, big time!!!!!! I'd rather take a chance at growing the tree in a less than ideal location, than, give it away. Most people who see the tree, ask me what kind of "Rose-of-Sharon" is it?

Maybe I'll carefully remove the tree, without disturbing the roots, repot it into a larger, 20-gallon container, and grow it at the intended location, just to see how it does. If it doesn't decline, maybe I'll take a chance and plant it into the tree-ring. I calculated the volume of soil which will be contained on this tree-ring that I'm building, and it comes close to 225 gallons of soil.

The Acer griseum that you mentioned, was actually, my first choice for this spot, but any, decent size tree, was far too expensive for my budget. Besides, most of the A. griseums that I've seen in nurseries, were either, too small, or more often, so hideous, and, poorly grown, that I would've had to prune half the tree away just to correct all the defects. I can't understand how nurseries get away with selling such poorly-grown crap!!! Most of what I see being sold, and, at such high prices, belongs in the compost piles, but some poor suckers still buy this garbage. It's all too common to see bad crotches, weak, double-leaders, - that will eventually split, - crossing branches rubbing away bark, rotting, branch stubs - from improper pruning, - and the list goes on, and on. Absolute crap for sale !!!!!!!!!!!!

Anyway, thanks again for helping me out, with what may be, a very costly mistake. I'll do more homework before my next purchase. I'll let you know if this saga has a happy ending.

Cordially,
Frank

I'm a little more hopeful the fact its not going to get direct afternoon sun.

I have a 5 footer that burned with with some sun exposure so I moved mine to nearly full shade- couple blossoms this year.

Maybe its worth a shot of you have no other sites. Its a bit tough to start in july too...water generously and do not go out town for a week and leave unwatered-it will be crispy upon return.

Frank, I'm far from expert ....love these trees..keep asking for advice from others

garp1:

I'm thankful for any suggestions that you can offer, ...I really appreciate your feedback.

In your opinion, will trees acclimate, over time, and adapt to less than ideal conditions? If strong sunlight falling on this year's leaves, on my new Stewartia, causes them go crispy at the edges, will the crop of new leaves that are put out in spring,'09 have a better chance of resisting the effects of full sun? I guess what I'm asking is: will a tree cope any better with adverse conditions as the years go by?

Thanks again for all the help.

Cordially,

Frank

Early on there is transplant shock where they struggle to establish roots..vulnerable and I'm a bit worried that in July the vulnerability increases even more.
The more I think about it I would not start now. If you want to keep it potted, put it in your ring and even cover it with your soil..might be an reasonable experiment.
If its burning in this site (without transplant shock) in the 10 gallon then I think you know it won't make it.

If it can make it through the summer in this site- July, August..then plant in late September

I know the store had it in "full sun" but I bet they shifted it on hot days..and there hasn't been too many yet.

garp1: again, thank-you.

I will follow your suggestions. Over the course of the next month, or so, I will build my tree-ring from stacked stones, and, fill it with a good, soil mix. Your suggestion to bury the potted tree in the planting site sounds like a plan. If the tree does poorly, I'll certainly know.

Hope this works out in my favor, though. I'll let you know.

Happy 4th of July! ... and, God bless all those who have, and, are sacrificing, their all, for our sake. May you return in victory.

Frank,
I have a Stewartia pseudocamellia planted in quite a bit of sun ~ okay, nearly full sun ~ and it hasn't burned in the 3 years it's been there. I have it on a drip system and it does get a lot of water, which may be helping. Of course, your patio will generate more heat than my lawn, but I just wanted to let you know mine does well in full sun.

sarahmakes6: Thanks for letting me know how your garden grows ...

I'm encouraged by your success with the Stewartia pseudocamellia. Do you think that constant moisture at the root-zone of this tree helps the leaves from going crispy? After I plant this tree in the stone ring, I was going to add a deep layer of mulch to keep the root zone moist, and cool. Hope my tree does as well as yours. I'll let everyone know what's happening.

Thanks to all, Frank