Roselee, Didn't want to hijack your thread into a discussion on glyphosate, so that linked article was sort of an oblique confirmation of your doubt that "glyphosate disappears from the soil very quickly." In fact, in Monsanto's own words: "...the tight binding of glyphosate to agricultural soils effectively prevents significant root uptake by nearby plants." This is what enables that nice ability of almost immediately replanting a treated area. Residual/cumulative glyphosate is not likely to be an issue for most home gardeners, but the research and debate in the agricultural space is moving me to become a bit more conservative in its use. The fact that non-targeted plants can be damaged when their roots are intermingled with targeted plants in small containers or the glyphosate becomes mobile in hydroponics is pretty well accepted. But it's reasonably argued that these are not representative of most yard or field growing environments. The exception is the warning shouted on the Roundup usage sheets about what several of us have advised: PRECAUTIONS, RESTRICTIONS: DO NOT MAKE CUT STUMP APPLICATIONS WHEN THE ROOTS OF ADJACENT DESIRABLE TREES MAY BE GRAFTED TO THE ROOTS OF THE CUT STUMP. INJURY RESULTING FROM ROOT GRAFTING MAY OCCUR IN ADJACENT TREES.... Adjacent trees having a similar age, height and spacing may signal shared roots. Whether grafted or shared, injury is likely to occur to non-treated stems/trees when one or more trees sharing common roots are treated. So, might not use it on a stump in a grove of similar aged oaks, but not likely to be an issue in your situation. Planting a new tree within 3 or 4 feet of the stump shouldn't be a problem as our own experience has shown... well, other than digging the hole through the roots of the old tree.

I have several wild American Elm growing on my property near Waco, Tx. I still have at least one of these potted (about 2' tall). IF someone wants it, I will send it to you bare-rooted free of charge up until end of April, except you must agree to post here annually its growth results and agree to at least weekly watering if no rainfall during spring -fall for first year. Our American Elm here appear to be DED- free, but the trees are much shorter than described back east. Our native Cedar Elm appear to be the better choice for here, but the few large American Elm growing only along river and creek beds do look nice. I am not an expert on American Elm, only an interested observer on the western fringes of their territory.

Yes but tropical trees rarely change colour in the autumn, and they rarely make elm shaped leaves. A couple of people have mentioned acacias. No way. Like I said, they're ugly and dead and dry looking for 11/12 months of the year. I was quite particular about the American elm for a couple of reasons. First, because I have a sentimental attachment to the tree. Second, because nothing really compares. If an alternative tree has the right habit, it'll have the wrong leaves. If a different tree has the right colour leaves, it'll have a completely different growth habit. The tree, as far as I can tell, is in a class of its own. The only thing that comes close, imo, is the English elm. But I don't want an English elm, I want an American elm damnit! lol I have exams on at the moment. When they finish I'm gonna go for a drive to Canberra to get some cuttings and to hunt for seeds. If they take I'll update you all. If not, I think I might just buy one from these folks. I reckon that'll be expensive though :\ http://www.establishedtrees.com.au/

If you let the bottom part of the stump regrow it has got the roots so it will be stable ...the other parts of the stump you can make into a hedge if you just leave them on the ground some will sprout and others won't. Either way its good mulch if the tree isn't diseased. Otherwise just use the stumps or compost them and only let the base with the roots regrow. You can wax the top of the stump with beeswax to seal the open wound and stop it rotten and getting diseased. we have an apple tree that grew back like that and ive got horse chestnuts growing that way. You can also employ a proper arbour maintenance guy to cut your trees into shapes that are less likely to get ripped up in a storm hey take a lot of the longer branches and shorten them so you get new flimsy growth which the wind can't break as easily and they look nice after a few years and if it is properly done. They do third in Europe a lot and it looks great. Here in Ireland a lot of people with an electric saw think they can do work with trees and really they have not a clue. So be careful to find a guy and see his work. Sometimes they cut them so ugly but when cut right it make a them a lot safer and still looks nice. Bit like a lollipop lol! But better than having no trees at all. You can also plant other trees around large trees to create wind break... Trees like poplar are good for that and birch they break the wind up and divert it before the fall force hits the big tree. Its not bad for buildings to have some wind break too. Might not make much difference during a hurricane though. If its a big oak its probably been there longer than you and birds may have lived there for generations ...trees are an amazing asset and take so long to mature that I'd do everything I could to protect them and help them endure safely before cutting them down. They do so much good. And you might find problems if you fell a lpt of them... Landsliding away flooding in paddocks and other things which the trees have been preventing for years.