JD 445 Rider Mower Issues - Need Help Please

14 years ago

Hi,

I'm a Newbie to this site. But I've read a lot of threads hoping to read about my issues, and was very impressed with the amount of technical knowledge.

I have a 2000 JD 445 with about 500 hrs on it. I bought it to replace a GT235 so I could also plow snow in the winter more efficiently. I mow over an acre and a half and it's really hilly with a lot of obstructions. This mower with a 48" deck is perfect for me and the tasks I use it for.

When I purchased it, it ran fine. A little stinky but I thought it was just showing it's age. I used it all winter to plow and it worked better than I expected. In the spring, I used it of course, to cut grass. Before I could get through the entire season the issues started to pop up.

1) It smokes more now (enough to make ya sick after a couple hours on it).

2) Overall power seems to have decreased.

3) Steering is very sluggish to almost impossible under a full load (my 275 lbs & very steep incline).

4) There is a fluid leak in the rear, on the right side, after running it for a couple of hours, and does not leak after the engine is shut off and the mower is parked.

5) Towards the end of the season I noticed a flashing light on the dash, it's yellow, with the coiled wire symbol (I think that's what it is), that until I came to this site thought was a loose wire connection somewhere.

6) And the piece d' resistance, I rolled it the last time I used it so I need a new hood and dash bezel or entire dash. Don't ask how, lets just say I have very steep hills to cut. And obviously I'm an idiot sometimes.

I can handle most repairs, and I am mecahnically inclined, but not a mechanic by any means. I have (real) tools and a large space to do the work. What tools I don't have my friends do, and both are real mechanics, big Deere fans and multiple JD owners as well. They just don't have the time to spend with me in the garage on the weekends to get this thing up and running.

So, here's my question (finally): Should I attempt to diagnose and fix all these things or just take it somewhere?

I'd rather do it myself for two reasones, I prefer to be self sufficient and money really doesn't grow on trees.

I heard that the fluid leak is common from a cover and usually occurs around 400-500 hrs. I read on here it could be more involved, but not impossible, even for me to do, and sounds like a (cheap) gasket replace. Excessive smoking and or rich exhaust can be a couple things. I would immediately assume worn out piston rings. Which might also explain the loss of power. The steering thing has me baffled but I would again assume it's tied to the fluid leak, maybe a hydraulic line, or again, just a result of power loss affecting a fluid type motor (if one exists).

I origiannly thought I'd just take it to the dealer but then found out how much they charge per hour. so now I am re-evaluating things. I found a new hood (125 bucks cheaper than the dealer), so I can replace that no problem. But these things need to be addressed before winter sets in and it starts to snow. I have a snow thrower as a back-up but prefer to use my 445. I even intended on changing out the tires for a set with more traction that will help in both the winter and summer (remember, very steep hills), and add weights. Which is why I need more power, better steering, and no smoke or leaks.

I know this isn't a lot to go on so I appreciate any input from anyone. And if any of you guys know a expert near/in the Northern Harford County region of Maryland looking to make a few extra bucks for X-mas, that would be greatly appreciated too. I just want my Deere back to normal.

Thanks,

Rob P.

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Comments (11)

oldlandman
14 years ago
last modified: 9 years ago
I had similar problems with my 9-year old JD L120/48. I maintained it well, but pulleys wore out continuously, belts broke easily, wheel bearings failed, then the oil fouling started. JD dealer wanted $400 to fix and would not guarantee results. I sold it for $100 and bought a Husqvarna.
johntommybob
14 years ago
last modified: 9 years ago
If I had the money I would take it to Deere and have them fix it right, or at least take it to them and find out what is wrong and what it would cost to repair and then decide if it is worth it to you. If you are not really good at repairs you could spend a lot of money, and time, and still not have a machine you can use with confidence, if at all.
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tomplum, "...The breather tends to want to be a one way valve,..." The breather IS a one way valve to stop air from going back into the engine. You need the vacuum created for the motor to run smooth. NewAtMowerRepair, FYI: The pic of the block only is a overhead valve eng block not your flat head - close but not the same but what your were looking at is the same- the oil passage to the valves and springs. I think what your current fix is just a bandaid and you have a different problem. If you just adjusted the carb because it was running lean, it would have run fasterand before stalling and burn out if lean enough. Remove the sparkplug if it is whiteish it is lean if goldish normal. When u turn the crankshaft backwards and let it bounce back, turn it as fast as you can. if u turn it real slow, it won't bounce. NewAtMowerRepair, try this - remove the airfilter. while it is idleing hold paper overthe air passage into the motor. does the paper "bounce" or is it just pulled down? Look down into the passage to the carb. do u see a "puddle" of gas? or is it bone dry at the bottom? If bounce and puddle, Do u have a feeler gauge? If u take the plate off and look at the valve springs, turn the motor to Top Dead Center with both valves closed and measure the gap between the valves and the shaft holding each spring (tappet).
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My $161.95 early bird service for my JD GT275 turned into $375.81 service. see under posting "John Deere Lawn Tractor Buying Advice Needed: X300 or LA series" Thing of it is I've gotten just as good as life out of my Sears, oh well, The same thing happened when I bought a Lincoln Continental, T-birds were just as good but cost a good deal less. Now retired, I sold the Lincoln 2 weeks before I retired, because of the cost factor. Now, I use my wifes Avalon when I need a car, or just climb up into the Dodge Ram - yeh, it's a hemi. Like I've said I like HP. Enjoy, the cub, dragging that deck alittle at the shed door will do alot less damage than leaving it set out in the weather.
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OK, first of all, let me say that fuel does not flow out of a carburetor into the engine because it is pressurized by a fuel pump, or by gravity. There is a form of pressure involve in how fuel gets from the carb to the engine, but not like you may have thought Lots of folks think that a fuel pump, or gravity pushes fuel out of the carb and into the engine. That ain't how it works with a carburetted fuel system. A carburetor operates like this: The carburetor Fuel Bowl is FILLED with fuel by a fuel pump or by gravity, but that is only for FILLING the bowl. The float then rises as the fuel fills the bowl and as the float rises, it operates a "needle valve" to close off the flow of fuel into the carb so that the flow of fuel INTO the bowl is stopped at a specified point, or "float level". Fuel is "withdrawn" from the carburetor bowl and into the engine induction system (intake) due to what is called "venturi generated vacuum", which is created when the air flow being inhaled by the engine causes a "vacuum" inside the carburetor throat. Because there is a vacuum inside the carburetor, atmospheric pressure is able to cause the fuel to flow out of the bowl through prescribed passages and into the carb throat. The strength of the venturi vacuum applied to the carb fuel passages is in direct proportion to how far the carburetor throttle plate is opened. Open the throttle plate, and you are "giving it the gas"......as in: "Here, take this gas, its a gift.". Not like the carb is force feeding gas to the engine, but only OFFERING the gas to the engine, venturi vacuum is actively drawing the gas out of the carb bowl, not simply receiving the gas fed to it. That is the basic outline of how carburetion works. Now, about that strange little solenoid on the bowl. That solenoid is included in the more recently manufactured engines to prevent what is known as "afterfire combustion" in the exhaust system. Afterfire is most commonly called "back fire" by people who have heard it. Afterfire happens AFTER the engine has been put into shut down mode (ignition system has been stopped) either by the operator turning off the key, or because a safety interlock switch has been activated (seat switch etc.) Afterfire is the loud bang that issues from the muffler/exhaust system as the engine finally winds to a halt after the ignition system has been turned off. Old school machines where there was not a fuel solenoid would almost always produce a loud bang or pop when shut down hot. That is because even though the ignition system has been "killed", the fuel system continues to carry fuel into the still spinning engine by venturi vacuum. The interior walls of the exhaust system are still hot enough to support combustion at all times during engine operation, but because there is little or no fuel in the exhaust stream, afterfire is not possible when the engine is running. But..........just as soon as you shut down the ignition system, fuel is no longer burned INSIDE the engine. Instead, the unburned fuel flows on into the exhaust system, where temperatures are still high enough to ignite the fuel. So long as the exhaust stream is rushing through the muffler while the engine winds down, the fuel does not ignite. But when the engine finally stops, the fuel heats up and detonates, and that is when the bang occurs. The fuel solenoid prevents (or minimizes) afterfire by stopping the flow of fuel out of the carb main jet as soon as the key switch is turned off. With the main jet now closed off by the solenoid valve, the fuel component is mostly absent from the air flowing into and out of the engine. This "air only" flow through the engine effectively purges all traces of residual fuel from the exhaust system, so there is no fuel to make the big bang. Now, back to your neighbor's carb. Installing a manual fuel shut off valve does work to prevent any small leakage past the needle valve from drowing an engine while the machine is stored between use cycles. But, the fact you see little movement in the float may be an indication that the float system is not working correctly, and is incapable of shutting off the fuel flow, or " maintaining optimum fuel level" during operation. During operation, the float keeps the needle valve ALMOST SHUT OFF, allowing only enough fuel into the bowl to maintain the correct fuel level. The fuel rate entering the carb exactly matches the rate at which the engine is withdrawing fuel from the carb........but only if everything about the float, needle valve, and its valve seat.....are in good order. If the float and needle valve are not operating properly to limit fuel entering the carb, the fuel level will rise and overflow the bowl and when that happens, the fuel mixture becomes too rich to burn efficiently, and the engine might not run at all. I think in the case of you and your neighbor, a new carb will be the best action to take. And replace those bolts with new also, vise grips are not the tools to use for installing bolts. Removing when necessary, yes. Installing.......never.
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atschirner
14 years ago
last modified: 9 years ago
I'm confused, the coiled wire indicator is for glow plugs used on the diesel 455 G/T. If you have a 445 fuel injected Kawasaki that indicator position is used for flashing FI fault codes:

H - Injection System Failure indicator (Model 445 Only) - will come on for a few seconds when you turn key to the RUN position.

The injection system failure indicator serves as an injection system diagnostic tool. When there is a problem with one of the fuel injection sensors, the indicator will blink. This light has two signals, a long blink (-) and a short blink (). Use the following to diagnose the indicator blinking:

Â· - Â· Â· Air Temperature Sensor problem.

Â· - Â· Â· Â· Water Temperature Sensor problem.

Â· - - Â· Air Pressure Sensor problem.

Â· - - Â· Â· Key switch was turned on too quickly.

Â· If light is blinking, see your John Deere dealer for service.

Hope this helps.
mowertech_25
14 years ago
last modified: 9 years ago
Has there been some dust run through the engine to cause the smoking? It sounds crazy, but you probably need to replace your radiator to repair your steering problem. There is a blockage in the oil cooler that is located in the bottom of the radiator that will cause hard steering problem. What color is the oil that is leaking out of the back? Also, check the coolant to see if any transmission oil has gotten into it causing it to turn white.
bunnyman
14 years ago
last modified: 9 years ago
I've not owned a 445 but have had some JDs.

I'm guessing that your hydrostat is leaking. It probably shares fluid with the power steering cylinder. So low hydrostat fluid would make it steer hard due to lack of fluid in the hydraulic steering cylinder. Was the filter put on correctly (just a guess where it might leak)? Perhaps check and fill the fluid if needed and see if the steering improves. A flashlight really helps me see under my tractor... eyes are getting old. You may need to add fluid, run the tractor around a bit, and then check it again. Don't overfill... the distance between the fill and full marks tends to be just a few ounces of oil. Wish hydrostat makers would allow more tolerance for fluid capacity.

A big question on the engine is it smoking from gas or oil or coolant? Oil smoke tends to be more blue... gas smoke tends to be more black, coolant more white(steam). Problems with the fuel injector can cause extra gas to be used and the engine will smoke from it. Bad piston cylinder rings allow oil to bypass and will cause oil smoke. If you can't tell by the smoke color then I'd check to see how much oil it is burning. If it does not use much oil then it is probably a fuel problem. Given the age of your tractor the engine gaskets are very suspect. Bad gaskets can cause everything to leak.

I mow up and down the steep parts of my property. All my JDs have been good climbers. I'm a bit paranoid about rolling as those 1000 lb machines will kill you if it pins you under it.

If you spend a couple hours looking over your tractor and don't find obvious solutions have the work hired out. I work with machines all day long but usually have someone work on them when they need it. There are guys in my area that make a living doing small engine repair because the dealer is pricey. A decent small engine shop could probably fix you up cheaper then the dealer. If you can just look and have an "ah-ha" moment then fix it yourself... a loose filter or something like that.
rcmoser
14 years ago
last modified: 9 years ago
A little stinky but I thought it was just showing it's age.

What was stinking? What color of smoke, blue? black? or white? How many hours on it? Did you change/check the oil/fluid and filters? ever?
rdaystrom
14 years ago
last modified: 9 years ago
No reply since the first day he registered in November. Perhaps he "rolled" it again. In my opinion his self assessment is correct.... He's an idiot...said so himself in line #6. It should be taken into a dealer for repair before it's forever totally screwed up.
rob_norharco
Original Author
12 years ago
last modified: 9 years ago
Damn rdaystrom that's harsh..........

Well, no, I never got the chance to take it to an authorized repair center do to the lack of funds. I did replace the tranny filter and for a while the leak stopped but is back, occasionally. The smoking and oil consumption is still the same but now after doing 90% of my 2 acres all uphill operations must be done with the PTO disengaged or it sounds and feels as if the mower will die. A pressure test on the cylinders revealed a loss of pressure on one side. I believe the problem is with the valve seals. They are going to be replaced this weekend. Sorry for dropping off like that...........
mownie
12 years ago
last modified: 9 years ago
Well, I doubt seriously that worn/defective valve seals are going to solve any of your power loss problems.
Valve seals DO NOT factor into any scenarios where a loss of compression and resultant power loss is the complaint.
Valve guides and seals do factor in on some oil smoke issues, but usually only when the engine first starts up, or when the engine is revved up after it has idled at low RPM for a while.
briggsgalaxieman
12 years ago
last modified: 9 years ago
I agree with mowine....not likely a valve problem....
The symptoms that you mentioned:

1. smoking "It smokes more now (enough to make ya sick after a couple hours on it)."
2. oil consumption
3. loss of power
4. 'loss of pressure on one side' with compression test.

...all point to cylinder problems such as worn/broken rings, cylinders out of round, scored cylinders, etc.
PISTONRINGS
12 years ago
last modified: 9 years ago
I had same issues with my 445 .. replaced air temp sensor with auto sensor (quick rewire solder job) worked for 2 hrs same problem.. had slow seep from somewhere.. ended up power steering valve a line let go.. ( fixed it by flaring the tube and re-installing line)
i was getting tired of limping back to the shop after 10 min. so i checked the fuel press and found i only had 9psi .
removed seat and rear body panel with fenders..6 bolts
i found the fuel pump connector was very black . after removing the spades and wireing , cleaning , pressure bumped back up to 25psi and 27 at full throttle..
i am using a modified jd 47in. snowblower and it is now a pleasure to drive. hope this helps
i am up in winterpeg mb.

JD 445 Rider Mower Issues - Need Help Please

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JD 445 Rider Mower Issues - Need Help Please

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