If it is a white ash, and I can't quite tell but I think it may be, there is a long-standing issue of graft incompatibility which presents exactly like this. I once had an "Autumn Purple" cultivar of white ash-developed in my own state-suffer miserably until death did us part, out on my terrace. I babied the tree during initial establishment but nothing I did improved anything. Look up graft incompatibility on white ash and see if you don't think that's what you have going on here. The irony of that situation is that in the woods can be found numerous fine white ash saplings-at least where EAB is not yet raging-any one of which would make a perfectly fine specimen, without the added step of bud or chip grafting. Not sure why that process still remains such a mainstay of amenity tree production. Own-root is the way to go, IMO. +oM

Kate, I agree, sounds like Cottony Psyllid. Here's an article I found.... Cotton Ash Psyllid: Kicking Ash while they are down (Article Published in the Calgary Gardening Magazine  Calgary Horticulture Society - May/June 2005) By Robin S. Adair As little as 3 years ago, I was recommending that homeowners plant Manchurian Ash Fraxinus mandshurica and Black Ash Fraxinus nigra. "They are hardy to this area" I would say, "These two trees have a nice shape and they donÂt have many predators." I have since changed my tune. With the arrival of the Cottony Ash Psyllid into CalgaryÂs urban forest in the last 2-3 years, 80-90% of the Black and Manchurian Ash trees that I have seen have been ravaged by this pest. One can only guess that with the drought that started at the turn of the century, this pest has overwintered well and can now be considered an infestation. Signs & Symptoms Also known as tree lice because of their white/cottony appearance, the Cottony Ash Psyllid injects a toxin into the leaf that curls the leaf and creates a little cocoon wherein the Psyllid hides from predators and tree-spraying equipment; and feeds on the leaf. Compound ash leaves start out healthy in the spring and then quickly start to curl once the nymph (immature) stage of the insect begins feeding. Once the leaves are curled, they are photosynthesizing less and may prematurely turn yellow. In the next year the tree might also have tip-kill and may only produce shoots from its trunk. Successive yearly infestations can lead to tree death as the treeÂs reserves are tapped out. Swamp Ash In any pruning courses I teach, my main theme is to keep the trees well watered, pruned and fertilized, and they will be able to tolerate much of what Mother Nature can dish out. However, if the tree is planted in the wrong location, it may be doomed anyway. Black Ash trees are native to Eastern Manitoba, and out east they are referred to as Swamp Ash. Therefore, one can only deduce that with CalgaryÂs current and future drought patterns this tree would do best if it were planted in a wetter area of the yard. For Black ash trees planted in front yards prone to chinooks or drying winds, only a minor infestation of Cottony Ash Psyllid could send the plant into shock. Control Since the Psyllid lays its eggs in leaf scars and bud tips to overwinter, dormant oil sprayed in early spring may be effective. Spraying Trounce (soap/permethrin mix) as the nymphs emerge in mid to late June has been found to provide even better control. The timing of this application is critical for success; just after bud break but before the leaves curl. There is a second generation of nymphs that appear in the last week of July but are tough to spray because leaves are already curled and there are lots of places for the Psyllid to hide. Here is a link that might be useful: Helping Customers Grow

Growing up in Wisconsin with a dad who loved to fish, he always made the same comment when we'd see a duck and her brood swim by the boat: "Muskie's gonna have good eatin'!" and then he'd tell me how he'd actually seen big fish take the little birds from below "like a shark - chomp!" Poor little ducklings!

I have been using Mills Magic and various Tones, usually right before a big rain. It's a time-consuming process since I have to pull back the mulch, scratch in the fertilizer thoroly and then replace the mulch. To keep the dogs off I lay empty flats (the plastic trays that six-packs of annuals come in). I still find soil disturbed here and there and guilty looking dogs with mustaches of dirt on their golden faces! Am going to back off on the process this year by relying on compost, liquid feed and alfalfa tea instead. Most of my garden is established shrubs and OGR's and I want to see how they do on this regimen. After all I'm not growing for exhibition!